> Thanks for the PTO advice. I do recall hearing that the C line had a nylon
> gear version and a metal gear version. I think the metal gears were on later
> builds?? I suppose there is no real way to tell without opening the cabinet
> and looking inside.
Operationally, I don't notice a difference but I much prefer the feel of the
metal geared PTOs in the C Line. The all-Nylon assemblies seem a bit sloppy
during quick rotation. But that does not affect the drive to slug, only the
dial gears.
> On the PTO, you said 'regular motor oil... is fine on the bearings". So it
> sounds like the Drake PTO is not greased up like the Collins PTO, just some
> oil on soem bearings. Are those just nylon or plastic sleeve bearings or an
> actual bearing?
You'll probably get many recommedations on this one. I've recently used Daven
oil on the worm drive and Lubriplate on the ball bearing raceway. Since you'll
likely not find Daven oil, it's similar in substance to what watch repair
shops. Being a Daven product from the days when broadcast consoles used ladder
attenuators, the oil helps to preserve electrical conductivity.
> I don't own a C line yet as I am just starting to pursue one. I want to get a
> late model setup and eventually acquire the full station except the
> transverters and converters. I've got a lead on a local one that hasn't
> been used since 1994. Seller emailed some photos and I'm awaiting answers to
> some questions about filters, extra crystals, crystal and filter covers,
> corrosion, serial numbers, etc..
I think once you're up around the 26,500 serial number, you're probably okay
with the metal gears but you need to ask the owner. That's the only reason why
I would pursue a late production R-4C. If you proceed with Sherwood mods or
other customization, it doesn't make much sense to hold out for a 29K+ unit
unless you want to preserve it intact for historical preservation purposes.
Both my B and C lines are heavily modified around the first mixer, power
supply, and everything changed from the product detector to the headphone jack.
I doubt I would do this to a mint receiver. I took average looking equipment
and made them mint through new knobs, dial lenses, VFO knob with inlay, cabinet
screws, painting by Hartzell, etc. It does not take much to make a
cosmetically mint receiver with all the recourses available.
> If you have a lead on a nice later model C line I'd appreciate hearing about
> it.
I think there's a nice one on the big auction place right now with many of the
Sherwood mods.
Paul, W9AC
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