Thanks for the input, Evan. I'll keep this in mind. 73
-Jim NU0C On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 00:07:41 -0500 (EST), Evan Rolek wrote: >Jim and fellow Drake enthusiasts, > > >That is an interesting point Jim brought up. This is the reason why I used >Teflon tubing on the brass rods, sometimes with heatshrink as well, and used >RTV or hot glue to hold the caps in place so there is air spacing between >adjacent caps. The originals were of slightly larger diameter than the >computer caps so the air gap works to advantage. However, there is only about >325 vdc across any two terminals/points on the capacitor so the insulation on >the can itself might even be adequate. But extra doesn't hurt either. > > > >73, > > > >Evan, K9SQG > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Jim Shorney <jshor...@inebraska.com> >To: Drakelist <Drakelist@zerobeat.net>; John King <k5...@yahoo.com> >Sent: Fri, Jan 17, 2014 11:57 pm >Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply > > > >I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still >running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a >little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of >concern with this method is the length of brass rod running along the side of >the can. As some of us have found out, the "isolated" can on those capacitors >can develop a voltage potential. Not necessarily a problem, as it would be >through a high impedance leakage path, but I think I would prefer a little more >insulation between that rod and the can. OTOH, Evan and Ron are both pretty >sharp techies, and I'm sure they would have revised the article if there was a >problem. > >73 > >-Jim >NU0C > >On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 20:23:40 -0800 (PST), John King wrote: > >>Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow >>it. >I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required? >I >really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW >> >> >> >> >> >>On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney <jshor...@inebraska.com> >wrote: >> >> >>This may be the droid you are looking for: >> >>http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm >> >>73 >> >>-Jim >>NU0C >> >> >>On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote: >> >>>I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of >the eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears >open. >I plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in changing >layout of supply or redesigning it physically. >>> >>>Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have >>>eight >new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New >caps >105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps. >>> >>>Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, >John, K5PGW -- Theres something out of place lets go and poke it with a stick. The Doctor, "Amys Choice" _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
