Michael N4NMR wrote:

I suspect my temp controlled soldering station is going south on me.  In
building my K2, I've noticed that it takes longer to get the solder flowing.

I'll take other recommendations just in case I have to go on-line to order
one.

-----------------------------------
Not knowing the manufacturer makes it tough to suggest ways to 'fix' the
current one. 

1- If it is a "fixed temp" tip, try a new tip. A bad thermostat can cause a
tip to run cool. Apparently your tip is heating because you do eventually
melt solder. 

2 - If just the soldering tip is replaceable, remove it and make sure it is
clean *inside* where it attaches. Corrosion that builds up at the attachment
point (threads, sleeve, etc.) can really cut down the heat transfer from the
element to the tip. 

3 - If you "give up" on it, consider a Hakko 936-ESD. No, you can't get it
today if no one in town sells one, but they are available in two or three
days via web order if you want it shipped priority from various places. 

They aren't "better" than Weller, nor is Weller "better" than the Hakko.
After all it's just a soldering station! The magic is in the hands that
wield it, not in the tool itself. I've used both, although I haven't use the
newer Weller stations. When I was last in the market for a new soldering
station, the Hakko price was the best. 

I really like the front-panel knob temperature control. I think where a lot
of ops go wrong is using too COOL of an iron. Desoldering braid is nearly
non-functional with a 700F iron. At the least, it's likely you'll lift a
trace by leaving it "cook" too long. Cleaning enameled wire by the "blob"
method also is very poor at 700F, not to mention soldering larger terminals
instead of a board trace. The ability to tweak the knob up to 800F, wait 5
seconds, then go to work is a real advantage of the variable temperature
stations to me. 

Ron AC7AC

P.S. We don't do "wars" here. 



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