Fred,

I put one in a friend's K3, and it only took about an hour.  Most of 
that time was in removing the PA assembly and putting it back.

The components were removed by alternately heating the ends (one at a 
time) until they cold be flicked off the solder pads.

I have decent mobility and good solder/de-solder skills.  So if you have 
problems with arthritis and poor eyes and drink a lot of coffee, it may 
be wise to let someone else do it for you.  Do you have any capable hams 
nearby that might give you a hand.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 2:47 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
> Please see comments below.
>
>   
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bill ny9h [mailto:n...@arrl.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:33 AM
> To: Fred Townsend; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools
>
>   
>
>   
>
>>   I'd like to tell you was easy but it's not. I'm a professional so I
>> have all the tools. It took me about three hours.
> ............
>
> Hi Fred & all....
>
> you must have been missing the one tool which made it easy ,,,, my good ole
> Hakko solder sucker, which i bought before swapping all the crystals in the
> K2 crystal filter.
>
>   
>
> Bill I have numerous suckers including a thousand dollar desoldering
> machine. The problem is suckers tend to generate solder balls. Like the
> other gentleman that replied I used solder wick. I also took considerable
> time to clean flux residues, ohmmeter the circuit, and inspect.  Yes the
> documentation is excellent and no it's still not a simple task, particularly
> if you have poor eyes, arthritis, or drink a lot of coffee which are the
> questions I heard Dennis asking.
>
> FT
>
>   
>
>   
>
>   
>
> I opened up the bottom , top & back Fan assembly.
>
> >From the bottom, with the set upside down, let the Hakko do it magic on the
> four pads, which dropped the two parts on the table....  then inserted the
> two new parts,,,resoldered,, lids closed.
>
>   
>
> bill  ny9h/3
>
>   
>
>     
>
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