Don, thank you.

With some copper braid solder wick to remove a bit of the fillets on the
joints on both boards, and after using my new Xcelite 170M shears, the
control board can be secured without an insulating sheet between it and the
front panel board.  I may still use that sheet of plastic there, but the
new configuration is *much* better than when I first wrote.

Mark
AE6RT

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 7:27 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> The instructions packed in the encoder envelope tell you to flush cut not
> only the pins on the encoder board, but also the leads on the control board
> that might contact it.
>
> If you do not have flush (or shear) cutters, and want inexpensive ones,
> look for Xcelite (or Lufkin or Cooper) 170M shear cutters.  They can often
> be found in your local Home Depot.
>
> In addition to flush cutting the boards, put something on the back of the
> encoder board - fish paper would be best, but a piece of flat plastic cut
> from one of the many plastic wrapped consumer products would be good.
> Paper or electrical tape will eventually puncture.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 5/5/2018 10:58 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>
>> While performing the initial power on tests on my K2 S/N 7809, I noticed
>> that the VFO knob/display tuning test produced a sluggish, intermittent,
>> or
>> no change in display when I turned the knob in either direction.
>>
>> I proceeded to remove the two chassis screws securing the control board to
>> the front panel board.  This allowed the control board to relax and
>> slightly fall away from the front panel board, toward the back of the
>> radio, opening up the space between the front panel encoder board and the
>> control board. The display was at once responsive to knob turning on all
>> RATE settings.
>>
>>


-- 
Mark
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