Mark,
Put the plastic sheet in anyway. In your case, it may be overkill (good
job on flush cutting BTW).
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/8/2018 10:26 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
Don, thank you.
With some copper braid solder wick to remove a bit of the fillets on
the joints on both boards, and after using my new Xcelite 170M shears,
the control board can be secured without an insulating sheet between
it and the front panel board. I may still use that sheet of plastic
there, but the new configuration is /much/ better than when I first wrote.
Mark
AE6RT
On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 7:27 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com
<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:
Mark,
The instructions packed in the encoder envelope tell you to flush
cut not only the pins on the encoder board, but also the leads on
the control board that might contact it.
If you do not have flush (or shear) cutters, and want inexpensive
ones, look for Xcelite (or Lufkin or Cooper) 170M shear cutters.
They can often be found in your local Home Depot.
In addition to flush cutting the boards, put something on the back
of the encoder board - fish paper would be best, but a piece of
flat plastic cut from one of the many plastic wrapped consumer
products would be good.
Paper or electrical tape will eventually puncture.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/5/2018 10:58 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
While performing the initial power on tests on my K2 S/N 7809,
I noticed
that the VFO knob/display tuning test produced a sluggish,
intermittent, or
no change in display when I turned the knob in either direction.
I proceeded to remove the two chassis screws securing the
control board to
the front panel board. This allowed the control board to
relax and
slightly fall away from the front panel board, toward the back
of the
radio, opening up the space between the front panel encoder
board and the
control board. The display was at once responsive to knob
turning on all
RATE settings.
--
Mark
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