Yup.... When I did my alternator and battery upgrade (including a
complete replacement of the power/ground cables with much heavier
cable), for my stereo install, I discovered that very thing.... even in
a TRUCK with a frame.
I mapped out and installed massive ground continuity cables from every
metal body part to the frame, and finished up by MEASURING the
resistance from point to point all over the body, bed, cab, frame, and
engine to insure that the entire ground plane was continuous and super
low resistance.
Maybe overkill, but it works great, and it gives me comfort to know that
vibration dampening and oxidation aren't compromising the counterpoise.
Side bonus, was that the 12VDC ground plane was so good afterwards, that
I have been able to take out a lot of the home run grounds from a bunch
of lights, et al... ofsetting weight gain by some bit.
73,
______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389
On 08/24/20 17:40, Jim Brown wrote:
Yes, and this should definitely be twisted pair, contrary to what's on
a highly regarded mobile site. Also, radio equipment in vehicles
should NOT by bonded to the frame/chassis/vehicle metal.
OTOH, coax return for HF mobile antennas SHOULD be bonded to vehicle
metal, because that's what serves as its counterpoise (often called a
ground plane).
BTW -- a major obstacle to this being a good ground plane is that the
metal parts of many (most?) vehicles are insulated from each other by
paint. An ohmmeter study between parts of the chassis is a worthwhile
effort.
73, Jim K9YC
On 8/24/2020 3:01 PM, Steve Hall wrote:
I highly recommend you run a power lead to the battery (ideally) or the
main power bus in the car interior rather than tap off the limited
accessory socket. Keep well under the fuse rating that feeds the
accessory plug if you go that route.
Steve WM6P
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