Dave, Answering some of your questions:
I consider .032 solder too large - it is difficult to control the amount of solder with the large diameter stuff and by the time you get any solder on the connection, it is too much. I recommend a diameter of .020 or smaller, I use .015 myself. A 60/40 core is OK, but the 37/63 alloy is better yet. If you do buy new solder try to get one with a mildly activated flux. Check Mouser www.mouser.com for a good selection of solder. The effectiveness of the noise blanker depends on the type of noise that you encounter. The KNB2 works well on impulse noise such as gasoline engine ignition noise. I am not certain you have all the information quite correct about the K2 to KAT100 interface. IF you have the KPA100 installed you do not need (and cannot use) the KIO2, but if you are going wait until later to add the KPA100, you will need the KIO2 to make the KAT100 function. The KPA100 has an equivalent of the KIO2 interface built into it, and it is all you need to control the K2 from a computer. The W1 is a different animal - it will operate 'standalone', but if you want computer communication with it, you can either build a cable from the drawing in the manual or buy the kit of parts W1SERKT to construct the cable. With your DMM, you have all the tools (other than pliers, flush cutters, screwdrivers, etc.) needed to build and align your K2. After you have it constructed and aligned, you may want the N-gen to help set your filters, but it is not required, and the XG1 or XG2 is handy if you want to make MDS measurements of the receiver and want a calibrated S-9 level signal to check your S-meter response. What I am saying is that the mini-modules are an inexpensive way to begin an electronics lab, but are not needed to build and align the K2. After your K2 build, you may want to do a precise dial calibration and filter alignment, but that can be done using only the K2, WWV reception, and Spectrogram running on your computer. I have an article on K2 dial calibration on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com that tells you all you need to know (and more) about the procedure. Look at it after your K2 is up and running. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > ... > Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40 > "standard rosin-core" solder. Based on what I am reading in the > archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead > discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will > be sufficient. I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat > levels. > > Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip. It has been > interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such. I > worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and > dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple > PCBs. I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work. > > I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which > does frequency and capacitance. I am going to head down to Harbor > Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over > head magnifiers. I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to > work on the lighting a bit. > > Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on > the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the > commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never > really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to > prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual > as that is the primary choices. > > It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is > no need for the KI02 interface. Just want to ensure I will have > everything I need for computer control. I understand I will need their > serial kit. Is this what W1SERKT is? The webpage seems to be broken > for this. The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to > the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge". > > I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see > what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the > process. > > Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad. What > would be useful for building the above kits? The N-gen and 2T-gen seem > useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other? The > XG2 seems like it would be quite useful. Is there a need in the test > and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI? > > 160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits > me. But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems > like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts? > > Any other thoughts about the "plan"? Anything I have overlooked? > -- > > David Wilburn > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > K4DGW > http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw > http://www.qsl.net/waarc > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: > 1/18/2007 6:47 PM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: 1/18/2007 6:47 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. 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