Thanks for the great information. I transposed the KAT100 with the
KPA100 when talking about the computer interface, my mistake. I wasn't
sure what the W1SERKT is, as it is only mentioned on the price list, and
the link;
http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1
takes me to the wattmeter/swr bridge.
I do need to look at the flush cuts while I am out and about. Good
information on the mini modules, that is what I was looking for. I'll
take a read through the article this eventing. Thanks.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Dave,
Answering some of your questions:
I consider .032 solder too large - it is difficult to control the amount of
solder with the large diameter stuff and by the time you get any solder on
the connection, it is too much. I recommend a diameter of .020 or smaller,
I use .015 myself. A 60/40 core is OK, but the 37/63 alloy is better yet.
If you do buy new solder try to get one with a mildly activated flux. Check
Mouser www.mouser.com for a good selection of solder.
The effectiveness of the noise blanker depends on the type of noise that you
encounter. The KNB2 works well on impulse noise such as gasoline engine
ignition noise.
I am not certain you have all the information quite correct about the K2 to
KAT100 interface. IF you have the KPA100 installed you do not need (and
cannot use) the KIO2, but if you are going wait until later to add the
KPA100, you will need the KIO2 to make the KAT100 function.
The KPA100 has an equivalent of the KIO2 interface built into it, and it is
all you need to control the K2 from a computer. The W1 is a different
animal - it will operate 'standalone', but if you want computer
communication with it, you can either build a cable from the drawing in the
manual or buy the kit of parts W1SERKT to construct the cable.
With your DMM, you have all the tools (other than pliers, flush cutters,
screwdrivers, etc.) needed to build and align your K2. After you have it
constructed and aligned, you may want the N-gen to help set your filters,
but it is not required, and the XG1 or XG2 is handy if you want to make MDS
measurements of the receiver and want a calibrated S-9 level signal to check
your S-meter response. What I am saying is that the mini-modules are an
inexpensive way to begin an electronics lab, but are not needed to build and
align the K2.
After your K2 build, you may want to do a precise dial calibration and
filter alignment, but that can be done using only the K2, WWV reception, and
Spectrogram running on your computer. I have an article on K2 dial
calibration on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com that tells you all you
need to know (and more) about the procedure. Look at it after your K2 is up
and running.
73,
Don W3FPR
-----Original Message-----
...
Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40
"standard rosin-core" solder. Based on what I am reading in the
archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead
discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will
be sufficient. I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat
levels.
Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip. It has been
interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such. I
worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and
dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple
PCBs. I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work.
I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which
does frequency and capacitance. I am going to head down to Harbor
Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over
head magnifiers. I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to
work on the lighting a bit.
Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on
the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the
commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never
really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to
prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual
as that is the primary choices.
It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is
no need for the KI02 interface. Just want to ensure I will have
everything I need for computer control. I understand I will need their
serial kit. Is this what W1SERKT is? The webpage seems to be broken
for this. The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to
the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge".
I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see
what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the
process.
Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad. What
would be useful for building the above kits? The N-gen and 2T-gen seem
useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other? The
XG2 seems like it would be quite useful. Is there a need in the test
and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI?
160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits
me. But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems
like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts?
Any other thoughts about the "plan"? Anything I have overlooked?
--
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw
http://www.qsl.net/waarc
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