Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier
is cheapest?
73,
Larry N8LP
Jack Smith wrote:
I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as
well.
I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.
It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp
tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a
non-removable die.
If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a
2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the
same tool.
Jack K8ZOA
Don Wilhelm wrote:
John,
I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.
But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the
BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be
changed to a UHF type - that is all I use".
Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the
opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled
BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I
subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my
only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough
attention to the coax stripping length instructions.
I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful
about cutting the coax correctly.
73,
Don W3FPR
John GM4SLV wrote:
<hobby horse>
But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a "UHF" one any day.
Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule
for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).
I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
"UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...
I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already....
</hobby horse>
Cheers,
John GM4SLV
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