Don, et al:

What a great thread ! I have only experience with crimping BNC and SMA
connectors and, strangely enough, LMR-600. Yep, I borrowed the crimping tool
for LMR-600 which is outrageously expensive from a cell telephone outfit
here in town. The owner is a ham friend of mine and he gave me an
N-connector to go on my long run on LMR-600. It has worked flawlessly.

Don, I use the correct crimp tool (I got mine from West Mountain Radio) for
Power-Poles and it works great. Sometimes I will both crimp and solder them.

I've never crimped PL-259's or N connectors but, brother, would that have
saved some time around here !! HI  I'll check into this.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:22 AM
To: Brian
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors

Brian,

Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair 
for those connections.  The prior information I have from NASA and for 
avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of 
fastening.  The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the 
field is that the proper tools may not be universally available.

As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper 
tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools.  Vary either 
piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection.  You 
can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain 
all the elements are correct.

For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because 
I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and 
I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to 
soldering them.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian wrote:
> Hello all, 
> 
> Just my 2 cents.  I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
> work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
> Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 
> 
> 73
> Brian
> N1WNC
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
> To: Larry Phipps
> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
> 
> I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.
> 
> I have seen what seems to be  the same tool at about half  the price 
> searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it 
> is exactly the same.  RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an 
> interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I 
> can't be sure it's the same.
> 
> It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in 
> your hands.  And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it 
> breaks or does not do the job right.
> 
> I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size 
> cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I 
> don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as 
> LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic 
> crimper.
> 
> I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.
> 
> Jack
> 
> 
> Larry Phipps wrote:
>> Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which 
>> supplier is cheapest?
>>
>> 73,
>> Larry N8LP
>>
>>
>> Jack Smith wrote:
>>> I would add  that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the 
>>> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as 
>>> well.
>>>
>>> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them 
>>> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are 
>>> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and 
>>> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.
>>>
>>> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the 
>>> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some 
>>> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a 
>>> non-removable die.
>>>
>>> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least 
>>> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be 
>>> the same tool.
>>>
>>> Jack K8ZOA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>> John,
>>>>
>>>> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N 
>>>> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.
>>>>
>>>> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to 
>>>> the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to 
>>>> be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use".
>>>>
>>>> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N 
>>>> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the 
>>>> opposite to be true.  While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector 
>>>> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly 
>>>> assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all.  In the 
>>>> past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered 
>>>> that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not 
>>>> pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.
>>>>
>>>> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use 
>>>> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH 
>>>> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful 
>>>> about cutting the coax correctly.
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>> Don W3FPR
>>>>
>>>> John GM4SLV wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> <hobby horse>
>>>>>
>>>>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
>>>>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
>>>>> connector over a "UHF" one any day.
>>>>>
>>>>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" 
>>>>> ferrule for
>>>>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
>>>>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
>>>>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
>>>>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
>>>>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on 
>>>>> pressure
>>>>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
>>>>> shell of the plug).
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
>>>>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...
>>>>>
>>>>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
>>>>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use 
>>>>> BNCs
>>>>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
>>>>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
>>>>> working with BNCs already....
>>>>>
>>>>> </hobby horse>
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>
>>>>> John GM4SLV
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