> "I would argue for the piggyback approach. Use a pair of "sprung" tweezers > that can grasp the SMT resistor at a comfortable angle."
At first, I detested working with SMT parts. I slowly got over it and have developed a certain comfort level but I almost need to meditate first as the iron is warming up. For me, a magnifying headset is a must. Like most of you, my ability to work very closely on PCBs stopped nearly on the day of my 40th birthday and since then, my near vision has slowly gotten worse. I now wear bifocal contact lenses, but the magnifier is still needed for SMT work. Also, I need to limit my caffeinated coffee intake before working. There is no way I can work with the iron and parts while I'm caffinated. Way too much shaking. A well-lighted area and a good "mood" environment is also a must. I almost never conduct SMT work with family anywhere nearby. It's too easy to loose my focus and concentration -- and mistakes start escalating. Regarding the K3 AF audio mod: I had no hesitation in removing the old SMT parts and directly replacing them with new values. Arguably, the "piggy-backing" attempt is more difficult since you're not working against a flat surface, like the PCB. Also, the area around the PCB's solder pads will be a bit more forgiving if alignment of the part is not perfect. Somewhere on the web, an ingenious fellow developed a slick "third hand" for SMT work The device is clamped to the edge of the PCB and pivots much the same way that we used to adjust a crystal radio's detector by varying the catwhisker arm position and tension on a piece of galena. The end of the catwhisker is then pressed upon the SMT part to retain tension while the left and right hands are applying heat and solder. Wish I new where to find one.... Paul, W9AC
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