A key objective of the procedures is to make sure everyone with normal skills and tools can do the job cleanly and correctly the first time.
It's the same trade-off used for important tasks anywhere, whether the worker is an astronaut working on the ISS, a surgeon in the operating room, or an A&E mechanic rebuilding an aircraft engine. Removing a few screws and pulling off the front panel assembly allows you to install the jumper without working half-blind from the side, trying to avoid damaging the DSP board or causing an unseen solder bridge. For those who haven't tried it, removing and replacing the front panel assembly is easy to do - especially once it's been mounted. The toughest time is the first time the front panel is mounted when all the connectors are still brand new and extra tight. But even then it goes smoothly if you follow the directions. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I wanted to pass on my experience with K6LL's suggestion about making the L4 front panel mod from the side of the unit without having to remove the front panel. I found this surprisingly easy to do, and it certainly saved time. So - Now after two mod processes plus installation of the KRX3, my cabinet screws are starting to show a little wear. Maybe Elecraft should offer a small kit that just includes replacement cabinet screws (top-and side-cover especially) for those of us who keep taking our K3s apart. Phil - AD5X .com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
