Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks like there 
are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running 
again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like.  I also bought a new 
set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out.  Any tips on removing 
them without damaging the board?  Since they are up against the board it's 
impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, 
I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  Thanks again,

Jim
N2SUB



--- olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

From: "Guy Olinger, K2AV" <olin...@bellsouth.net>
To: <d...@w3fpr.com>,   <j...@giercyk.com>
Cc: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500

I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239, including the 
matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2.  What a difference.

It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2 to talk 
to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting use. I 
can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp skirts to 
match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done, the work 
turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The first 
two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a 250 Hz 
resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement 
capabilities.

Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of ugly SWR 
is not a problem, just use the auto-tune.  Then again, maybe it's the mojo 
that makes the run.

I  carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the feed and 
it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.  Never gets 
fooled by close BC stations.  Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie to sniff 
out an HF feedline break.

73, Guy K2AV
K2/K3 #1239

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Wilhelm" <w3...@embarqmail.com>
To: <j...@giercyk.com>
Cc: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question


> Jim,
>
> I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
> replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically.  A
> set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is
> installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no need
> to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched
> sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option,
> you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jim Giercyk wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the
>> soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the
>> earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board,
>> internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.
>>
>> I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to
>> be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and
>> eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
>> the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
>> level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my
>> one-and-only.
>>
>> I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but
>> none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see
>> a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,
>>
>> Jim
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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