On Saturday 26 December 2015 10:45:14 EBo wrote:

And Gene replied:

> > "stem wall"? Not a term I am familiar  with, sorry. The front wall
> > in particular, has the roots of a row of burning bush we planted too
> > close
> > pushing it inward, and that has caused a slight inward bulge halfway
> > up
> > the wall, crack width less than 1/16", but no water appears to be
> > coming
> > it from that.  Its all around the base of the wall, up to 3, maybe
> > 4" above the poured floor. In any event, if we can keep the water
> > pumped out, it will outlast us, at which point my kids can do
> > whatever with it.
> > Dee never had any of her own.  Its paid for & has been for nearly 20
> > years now. One of the boys, recently remarried to a great woman, has
> > been looking for a place in WV, and has even explored the
> > possibility of
> > getting a transfer to here as his employer has a terminal here in WV
> > too.
>
> Stem walls go below the floor slab, and foundation walls go above the
> slab.  I am used to having stem walls even with basements, but that
> might just be the building codes back in NM.  (see
> http://www.infoforbuilding.com/types-of-house-foundations.html)
>
I ran into that when I made the hole in the floor, and had to move my 
hole about 10" farther away from the block wall before I could go deeper 
than about 6" below the poured floor. However, the open path into the 
sump makes a handy place to dump a dehumidifier bucket. :)  I had 
backfilled it with coarse gravel to about 4" below the floor, and have a 
bag of hydraulic cement stashed dry, but haven't managed to find my 
round tuit & finish plugging it.  I'd have to move everything that is 
currently sitting on where the trench would go, and possibly demolish a 
load bearing wall.

We'll see just how big a PITA it is till warm weather & make up our mind 
about the next step then.  Frankly, I am in favor of drilling a well 
near the back wall, under the back deck which we should demolish & 
rebuild anyway, 12 to 16 feet deep, and installing a pump that 
discharges into a culvert leading to the river 3 blocks away as I can 
reach a gutter drain that goes there with 20' of 1.5" pvc, just to keep 
the water table depressed.  Ideally, a windmill and an old pump jack but 
code might have a dim view of that & it would just be the straw that 
broke the camels back come time to mow around it. So we'll likely wind 
up paying for the electrickery to run it.

Thanks for the explanation.


> This is what I was talking about with the perimeter drain field:
>
> http://www.aquaguardinjection.com/residential/concrete-block-foundatio
>n-waterproofing/interior-weeping-tile-system
>
> http://www.foundationprosfl.com/exterior-basement-waterproofing.html
>
> I have also known people to install rain gutter pipes that go a LONG
> way from the house to move the water as far away as possible.  There
> was also one story I heard of a family that installed a wall up slope
> from their house to divert overland flow when they got a good rain.  I
> think that helped them some.
>
> This might also be helpful:
> https://www.ndspro.com/images/stories/pdfs/drainage/principles-of-exte
>rior-drainage.pdf
>
> > However, that may have taken 2nd place as they, about a year ago,
> > bought
> > a whole, roughly 8 acre, un-incorporated town in central Kansas. A
> > foreclosed Fanny Mae property, a 3 bedroom house with attached 2
> > bedroom
> > apartment, a 4 stall and workspace heated garage, and several other
> > smaller houses and outbuildings including what was once the post
> > office,
> > and got it for the price of enough paint to paint it all twice! Your
> > tax
> > dollars, hardly at work.
>
> I've seen a number of places like this come up.  I would not blame
> that on our tax dollars, but you might be right.
>
>    EBo --
>
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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