Thanks for those ideas.  I really would like black buttons with white
lettering, but the only way to get translucent buttons is in white.  I
guess I could consider reversing it, and infilling the engraving.

My initial experiments didn't work well doing infilling, so I did one using
a black auto primer and engraved the button, which worked well.

Really the right way to do this would be to get a silicon keypad made, but
for a one off project that is unworkable.


On Fri, Dec 7, 2012 at 11:20 PM, dave <dengv...@charter.net> wrote:

> On Fri, 2012-12-07 at 22:44 -0500, Bruce Layne wrote:
> > I reverse laser engrave legend plates, device labels, operator panels
> > and sometimes prototype membrane switches.  I've also done front surface
> > engraving.  I assume that's what you're doing on these switches.  The
> > big problem with that is that fingers activating the switches will erode
> > the paint from a front engraving.
> >
> > If you're stuck with front surface engraving, then I'd engrave deeply
> > and use a lot of paint, or several layers of paint and several layers of
> > clear coat on top.  Another trick that can work well is to use a liquid
> > paint instead of a rattle can of spray paint, fill the deeply engraved
> > letters with it rather than using several coats of spray paint, and use
> > a solvent to remove the excess paint from the top surface of the key
> > cap.  Make sure the solvent is compatible with the key cap plastic.  Or,
> > let the paint dry thoroughly and mechanically remove it from the top of
> > the key cap so it only remains in the engraved letters.  Fine sandpaper
> > or ScotchBrite works well for this.  If you want a glossy surface
> > instead of the brushed finish you'd get with unidirectional sanding or
> > the matte finish you'd get from random sanding, you can finish with 600
> > grit paper and then Micromesh or Abralon (1200-1500 grit foam backed
> > ultra-fine sandpaper).
> >
> > I have an EFD-1500 electronic fluid dispenser that I've used with a very
> > fine gauge needle on the syringe to dispense paint into engraving.  It
> > helps to use a lighted magnifier, have a steady rest for your hand, and
> > go easy on the caffeine for this delicate operation, but the paint wicks
> > well and fills the engraved letters with no mess on the unengraved top.
> > Model paint from a hobby shop might work well for this.  Fingernail
> > polish might work too.
> >
> > For engraving jobs with large and simple fonts, there are paint sticks
> > that look somewhat like felt tip markers.  They dispense paint instead
> > of ink, so they fill the engraving well and the paint is fairly opaque.
> >
> > You might have some luck putting tape over the top surface, engraving
> > it, spray painting it, allow the paint to dry and then remove the tape
> > which served as a spray shield.  This would probably work a lot better
> > for laser engraving rather than rotary engraving with a small cutting
> bit.
> >
> > There is typically better coverage with a good brand of paint like the
> > Krylon that you're using because there is apparently more pigment in the
> > paint, and the solvent in the better brands of paint seems less likely
> > to orange peel when applied to plastic than the 99 cent el-cheapo
> > paint.  I used some black spray paint recently from a major
> > manufacturer, probably purchased at Lowe's, that advertised twice the
> > coverage.  It was marketed as something like "ultra coverage" or "ultra
> > coat".  That might help your translucency problem.
> >
> > I hope you bought extra buttons for a little trial and error.  This
> > one-off prototype stuff usually involves some waste.
> >
> > I recently got in a hurry and accidentally had the laser cut about half
> > an inch off the edge of the $32 ultra scratch resistant polycarbonate
> > sheet that I was reverse engraving for the top of the tool rack for my
> > soon-to-be-CNC milling machine.  Then I decided to try to front surface
> > engrave the HDPE substrate even though I knew that was unlikely.  Sure
> > enough, the material didn't engrave well and required five passes to get
> > the engraving depth I wanted.  Then the paint wouldn't stick to the waxy
> > surface, chipped and flaked out, and looked awful.  I bought another $32
> > sheet of polycarbonate and laser engraved it the night before last,
> > painted it yesterday, and I'm going to epoxy it to the HDPE substrate.
> > Hopefully the two square feet of surface area will provide a strong
> > enough epoxy bond, even on the HDPE.  If not, I'll use countersunk flat
> > head screws... or I'll use PVC for the 3/4" thick substrate.  I'll test
> > the bond strength with the botched piece of polycarbonate and a scrap of
> > HDPE first.  I don't want to buy a third sheet of $32 plastic!  Oh, the
> > joys of prototypes and one-off custom work.
> >
> > Good luck!
>
> Just a random thought ... front engrave decently deep and then fill with
> colored epoxy and polish flush. This implies that you have clear buttons
> tho.
>
> May the force be with you.
>
> Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > On 12/07/2012 08:25 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
> > > I painted some of these
> > > http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1WD16/679-2144-ND/2034700buttons
> > > today, and engraved them, but find that the paint is not curing like I
> > > would like (not very durable), and the paint is soft enough that they
> did
> > > not engrave very nice.  Not only that, these are backlit buttons, and
> the
> > > paint I used(flat black krylon from wal-mart) is a little translucent.
>  Any
> > > suggestions about a better type of paint?
> > >
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