Morning: I retired from the screw machine world some 15 yrs. ago.  The 
grease we used in the spindles was a "Kluber" brand sinthetic grease.  Very 
spendy, very good though.  The spindles that the grease was used in would go 
from 0 to 10,000 RPM and back to 0 approx. twice a minute, 24 hrs. per day, 
5 days a week and had operated over 10 yrs. without any service to the 
spindles up to my retirement.  These machines were "Star" brand swiss style 
screw machines.  I know that all the other brands also used the same grease 
in their spindles.  I remember having to service the spindle from another 
larger machine after a power glitch and servo failure and my boss 
complaining about the cost of a tube of grease.
It is very common to remove the bearing cup by welding and at my time of 
retirement maintaince had a series of non conductive sleeves they would 
slide in to prevent spatter and a arc from leaving a buger on the ID. 
Before I left MN for AZ I stopped buy the local auto repair shop and they 
proudly showed me the better part of a 5 gallon pail full of bearing races 
that had been removed with the welding technique.
Seeya
Bob Malterer

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marius Liebenberg" <mar...@mastercut.co.za>
To: <emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2014 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Lathe spindle bearing problems


>A puller like that would be nice to have but I am afraid that there is
> no gap or any protrusion of the bearing race to grip on.
> On 2014-11-27 22:49, Marcus Bowman wrote:
>> On 27 Nov 2014, at 20:21, Marius Liebenberg wrote:
>>
>>> I will do the weld bead tomorrow and hopefully it will come out without
>>> too much trouble.
>> It's a counsel of perfection, I guess, at this stage, but I would use a 
>> puller fitted with very thin lips at right angles to the legs. These are 
>> designed to remove bearings from blind holes in car engines or gearboxes. 
>> The little lips are hardened and when you tighten the puller it squeezes 
>> the lips in behind the bearing, by wedging it into the radius in the 
>> outer casing of the bearing (the bit you have stuck in there at the 
>> moment). A GOOD QUALITY puller works well, and can get enough grip to 
>> ease the bearing off the bottom of the hole and get it out. I have done 
>> this once or twice and it is a good solution. My friend has a selection 
>> of good pullers for all sorts of awkward jobs like this.
>>
>> At this stage, unless you know someone with a puller like this, welding 
>> is probably your only other option.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 2014-11-27 19:30, Ed wrote:
>>>> On 11/27/2014 10:52 AM, Marius Liebenberg wrote:
>>>>> So a little bigger tap with a little bigger mallet did the job. The
>>>>> front bearing fell apart and is badly worn.
>>>>> Now the seat is stuck inside the headstock
>>>> To take out a bearing cup I use an arc welder and run a bead of weld
>>>> around the inside of the cup, let it cool down, extract with fingers or
>>>> tap the housing with your mallet. It can be done by heating with an
>>>> oxy-acet torch but you must be fast in, fast heat and fast out. Arc
>>>> works MUCH better.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> and the bearing piece is
>>>>> stuck to the shaft and I have no idea how to get it out.
>>>>>
>>>> The bearing race on the shaft is probably best removed by carefully
>>>> grinding through the race in a couple of spots and cracking it with a
>>>> chisel.
>>>>
>>>> Ed.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>> -- 
>>>
>>> Regards /Groete
>>>
>>> Marius D. Liebenberg
>>> +27 82 698 3251
>>> +27 12 743 6064
>>> QQ 1767394877
>>>
>>>
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>
> -- 
>
> Regards /Groete
>
> Marius D. Liebenberg
> +27 82 698 3251
> +27 12 743 6064
> QQ 1767394877
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> 


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