On Tuesday, January 06, 2015 12:48:56 AM Gregg Eshelman did opine
And Gene did reply:
> On 1/5/2015 9:48 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > My question is: Can these roundover bits actually plow where there
> > is no 'edge' since the edge would not exist at that time? Plow the
> > double sided groove, and then cut the piece out of the sheet. With
> > 2" wide stock, if I cut them out first, then round the edges, I can
> > get 6 pieces out of 2" but have a heck of a time holding them while
> > doing the roundover, but if I do the roundover first, I can only
> > get 5. Even so, I think I cn get the 50 I need from one 1/4"
> > thick, 2" wide, 12" long sheet.
> >
> > Has anyone a better idea?
>
> Got a scroll saw? A real one with pivoting upper and lower arms, not
> the type that pulls the blade down against a tension spring?
The latter is what I have, and its a blade breaking POS. About a 60 yo
Monkey Ward I salvaged at a yard sale 20+ years ago.
> If you have such or know someone who does, get a fine fretwork blade
> for it.
I have the 48 tpi spiral blades & they wander quite a lot.
> Use the CNC mill with a very small end mill or engraving bit to mark
> out the circles nested as tight as you can cut between on the scroll
> saw.
>
> Next step, use a lathe. Flat ended rod in the chuck, glue on some
> sandpaper. Flat nose ball bearing center in the tailstock to press the
> buttons against the rod.
The buttons are to be square. And of 2 sizes. The code to cut either is
attached. I have made a pair of Micarta jigs to hold them for the top
contouring using the attached code.
>
> Simultaneously cut to diameter and round over with a form tool or use
> CNC to cut the round and size to diameter.
>
> If you really wanna use the mill for rounding, use the lathe just for
> diameter sizing then build a vacuum holding fixture from MDF. Build it
> like a table for vacuum forming but with a pocket for the button and
> holes in the bottom of the pocket.
They are to be square, with radiused corners as left by the 1/8" mill
used to make the pockets they will fit into. That jig I made yesterday,
but haven't drilled an intersecting hole for a brass tube to be used for
a vacuum if required, or air pressure to eject it from the jig.
> Making a *lot* of these? How about having the button blanks water jet
> cut?
At least a dozen of the 1/2" square ones, and at least 36 of the .375"
square ones. I haven't started on that code yet, will be using a .03125"
pcb endmill with 1/4" cutter length, probably fed very slowly so as to
not have a huge amount of bit deflection. If I do it right, I can use the
bit deflection of a climb cut to give just enough taper to make it easy
to start into the jig, or into the real pocket in the Mahogany. IOW when
I cut it out of the ebony, the taper means I am looking at the bottoms as
they are being cut out. Obviously the code will need some fine tuning,
and I have some small scraps to play with.
But likely not today as its 19F and a light coat of snow on everything
but the shops roof, as theres 3kw worth of heaters trying to keep the
place above the dew point so tools won't rust overnight. And only a few
spots on the walls have a token bit of insulation. Ditto the garage
where most of the woodworking stuff is, but its got 6" to a foot of
cocoon insulation in its walls & ceiling. And a coat of that 2" styro
glued to the inside of the electric door. Its quiet in there, till I
start something. Even air conditioned in the summertime!
That shop building and its lack of insulation is a sore point, and I am
tempted come warmer weather again, to setup a 1x4 all around the edge of
the roof, and on top of the trusses on their 2' centers, lay 2 sheets of
R11 a sheet styro board in between the 1x4's & put some furring strips on
top of that and a corrugated tin roof on top of that. Needs to be opaque
else the sunlight will destroy the styro.
What can I say, it was about an $800 yard building, in kit form from 84
Lumber, 12'x16' hip roof with overhang style. I should have insulated it
before I ever started moving gear into it. All the trim 1x4's I put on it
to make it look civilized has now dry rotted because even a coat of
underpaint sealer slides right off whatever sort of wood it was.
Hindsight, 20-10 or better. ;-) I should sell the boat & use the boat
house spot for a new, bigger building is what I really should do.
Question then is will I live long enough to make good use of it. At 80
now, should I make long term plans? $64 question...
Cheers Gregg, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
US V Castleman, SCOTUS, Mar 2014 is grounds for Impeaching SCOTUS
%
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s2500 m3
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g83 F10 Z-.790 R0.00 Q0.2
g0X0.10275 Y0.0000
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#<_z_depth>=[#<_z_depth> - 0.0200]
G1 f10 z#<_z_depth>
G3 X0.1027500 Y-0.0000 I-0.1027500 J-0.0000
o10 endwhile
#<_z_depth> = 0.00
G1 z#<_z_depth> x0.000 y0.000
( for ends and sides)
(#<_sq_pat> = 0.1575)
( for base parts only)
#<_sq_pat> = 0.18775
o20 while [#<_z_depth> gt #<_z_sq_depth>]
g1 z#<_z_depth>
g1 x#<_sq_pat> y#<_sq_pat>
g1 x-#<_sq_pat>
g1 y-#<_sq_pat>
g1 x#<_sq_pat>
#<_z_depth> = [#<_z_depth> - .0250]
o20 endwhile
m5
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%
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