There are a couple of different grades of threadlocker for consumer use.

General use:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

Permanent - required 500 degrees to break bond.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

Dave

On 9/5/2015 8:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> I guess the fedex guy didn't have anything better to do, so the motor I
> ordered a couple days back walked up and splatted itself into a deck
> chair beside the front door about 10:30 ish this morning.
>
> That meant I had just about everything on hand to convert the spindle
> drive to all metal gears, and all metal sprockets.
>
> But it wasn't all that easy, Murphy is alive and well.
>
> While the mounting bracket for a swing mount looked the same, it was
> welded to the field sleeve of the motor about 10mm farther from the
> flywheel.  So I had to stack up washers on the swingbolts to space it to
> align the 6 groove j pulley with its load pulley, a 3 incher.
>
> The crescent slotted bracket to adjust belt tension, once sawed off to
> match the old one, misses backing out to align with the lock bolt by
> about 10mm, so it appears the pivot bolt holes must be 3 or 4mm farther
> from the motor body.  Its difficult to make a meaningfull measurement of
> that. So a 170mm j6 belt got ordered to replace the 160mm j6.  I hope
> that won't lay the motor too low.
>
> I took 3.5mm off the top of the jackshaft frame so it can lift a bit
> higher in the old motor pocket under the bed, and a quick test fit seems
> to indicate that is enough rise to compensate for swapping a 10 cog XL
> sprocket out for a 16 cog XL sprocket.
>
> On remove the old motor, it turned out that I had pinned the flywheel
> onto the shaft by drilling a hole that intersected the flywheel and the
> shaft, but I had forgotten that the tap I tried to tap the hole with,
> had broken off in the hole.  So the piece of tap is still in the hole,
> but it has wallered it out around the taps remains such that there is
> about a 2 degree looseness now. The flywheel could also be tipped on the
> shaft a degree or so, and that was what was causing it to sound as if
> the bearings on that end of the motor had turned square.
>
> IOW the motor would be fine IF I could get the tap out, screw it back on
> tight (left hand threads too) And drill & tap a new hole, perhaps for a
> roll pin to lock it together.
>
> This brings up a question re locking the shaft into its bearings.  Red
> threadlocker seems like it should work.  Doesn't.  Superglue seems like
> it should work.  Doesn't.  These bearings are a hundred lb or more press
> fit on this A2 shaft, and they still walk the shaft thru them given
> enough time.
>
> So, is there a magic glue concoction that will lock the shaft to the
> bearings?
>
> I put some red threadlocker on this flywheel and screwed the armature in
> and out several times to distribute it, then drove it on as firmly as I
> could.
>
> My old eyes can't read the microscopic and dirty text on the threadlocker
> tube, so I don't know how long till it reaches maximum grip.  Does
> anyone know?
>
> And despite the thread locker, should I try to drill & tap it again, only
> this time don't break the tap?
>
> Thanks for any insight you can share everybody.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

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