On Wednesday 25 December 2019 03:32:22 John Dammeyer wrote:

> Happy Christmas everyone.
>
> Having nothing better to do I took apart the X axis of my House of
> Tools (Cdn. company now gone) equivalent to the Grizzly Tools G3616
> mill.  Very disappointed to find that the oil channels are very poorly
> done.

At least it has SOME even if poorly done, John  My Grizzly G0704 has 
zilch, nada, none. I've been in the Grizzly showroom several times, and 
unless the quality bigger stuff has a one shot, I've seen zero evidence 
of oilers, no flip cap cups, nada on any of them.

> After watching lots of youtube videos it's clear that the channels
> should have been carved at an angle across the ways rather than
> straight so that the oil would more easily spread across the surface.
>
> Also it seems the good Bridgeports have a hole to bleed the oil down
> to the tapered gib and the gib itself has a hole and a channel to
> spread the oil on both sides of the gib so that the moving surface is
> lubricated.
>
> The builders of this mill thought the waterfall effect would be good
> enough and certainly the pool of oil under the dribble slot shows
> there was a waterfall.
>
> I don't have an issue with drilling a hole through the tapered gib nor
> grinding a small slot along both sides.  I can even see drilling a
> hole in the waterfall slot at the middle point there so that I have a
> hole that would match up with the tapered gib.  On the non-gib side
> just a hole I guess.
>
> But how do I block the slot so the oil doesn't fall off the edge. 
> Looking at the oil channel it's clear that not much reaches the near
> end.  Probably because it takes the easiest exit off the side.  The
> oil injection point is at the far end in the photo.  (Mill LH Side).
>
> Just use epoxy?  Can't really braze it closed.  Maybe for a manual
> mill the lack of lubrication isn't an issue but for CNC running 150ipm
>  (3810mm/min) lubrication is kind of important.
>
I'd clean it up, then clean up the ends that ought to be blocked even 
better, and add a drop of JB Weld, let it set to block the exit and then 
shave it flush.  And drill for oil cups and install wicking. I've 
thought on it some and it looks like the only sensible place on the 
GO704 is the bottom of the T slot, dead center lengthwise. Angling 
outward to hit the gib, cutting a lengthwise zig-zag pattern in the 
tapered gib to complete the distribution system.

The present system is wipe it as clean as I can with solvent soaked 
cotton balls and then soak one in vactra and re-wet it. About every 2 
weeks when its busy. Squirt some into the top of the post/gib joints 
about weekly. Someday buy an oiler. Someday.  And figure out how to get 
it to the y slider. All 3 nuts wouldn't hurt, lots of weed eater fuel 
line though, I could easily see a 50 dollar bills worth of that at a 
buck 50 a foot by the time you've hit it all.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> John

This is a problem, unless its designed in, retrofitting this is a PIMA. 
But I've no better ideas either. I did have oil lines to the ball nuts 
in the now failed HF conversion, and that worked well from a snap cap on 
the post.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>


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