The Ender printers are well thought out and lack most of the dumb problems of older Prusia clone printers. But still, there are cables that attach moving to non-moving parts and after flexing 20 times a minute for years will break. The printer is open source and there are forums if problems come up.
The first thing most new 3D printer owners print are upgrades for their new printer. Usually these are a filament guide to feed the filament over sharp edges and some braces to make the printer structure more rigid, housing for the electronics, cable clamps, and hold-down clamps so the printer can be screwed to a workbench. The on-line groups advised me that my A6 printer had a problem were a small connector was used for a big current and would melt and catch fire. But they kept re-posting this long after the manufacturer fixed this problem. That is what happens with even this group. We re-post what we read years ago. The printer is as complex as a CNC mill and takes a while before you can learn to use it. There is a long software workflow too from an idea in your head to finished parts and unlike a mill, there is no option to turn the handwheels manually. On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:56 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users < [email protected]> wrote: > I've never noticed any smell from PLA filament. ABS would definitely smell > just like cutting ABS with high speed tools that melt it some. > The GRBL, Marlin and other 3D printer firmwares have the ability to > monitor things and shut everything down if a fire potential situation > happens. Some printers have had a bit of an issue where the manufacturer > chose to not enable those features, then after a few incidents either the > users or the manufacturer released updated firmware with the features > enabled. Google 3d printer fire to find various ways some have lit up, and > things to look for to ensure yours won't. > Aside from the firmware issues, common causes of flammen tend to be wires > to the hot end or heated bed rubbing and wearing through insulation, or > parts for the bed mounting being sharp and cutting into the circuitry. At > least one case was the hot end heater fell out of the nozzle block and the > printer was one with runaway heat monitoring disabled. Since the thermistor > wasn't reading the heat, the printer kept cranking up the juice to the > heater. Basically an if expected temp output != commanded temp input then > something's wrong so turn off. The one with the bed mounting issue was one > of those lower cost Prusa copies. The fix was simply four fiber washers, > before the metal washers cut through the insulation coating on the > underside of the bed plate. > You'll want to make sure the wires to the heated bed are secured so they > don't flex where they're soldered. PITA to discover that when one breaks > loose then you have to take things apart, and rig up proper securing for > the wires. > > On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 8:04:15 PM MDT, Gene Heskett < > [email protected]> wrote: > For Dee, whose COPD is getting close to the end, not tolerable then, so I > may as well put it in the shed and build a box around it. > > Does it need a fire extinguisher when doing lights out stuff at 3AM?. > > Thanks Andy. > > Cheers, Gene Heskett > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
