Some people use only a piece of clean plain window glass with no coating of any
kind for PLA.
Ivan Miranda uses mirrors on his print beds. He's built several printers, some
very large. He uses so much PLA that Aprintapro just gives him what he needs,
as long as he plugs their filament in his videos. They even named the red color
he uses for everything, "Mirandament". His latest project is a tracked vehicle
large enough for him to ride inside. Body, tracks, wheels all made from PLA.
On my Monoprice Mini I have a piece of glass from a picture frame, covered with
one wide sheet of Kapton. I scrub some glue stick on it then gently wipe with a
wet paper towel. By the time the bed's warmed up the glue dries to an even
film. Works far better than the blue painter's tape I was using.
Masking tape of any sort needs a wipe with rubbing alcohol to strip the wax
coating or prints either won't stick at all or worse, pop loose partway through
a job.
On Friday, May 29, 2020, 12:13:31 PM MDT, Chris Albertson
<[email protected]> wrote:
The only large mass that moves is the table and only in the Y direction.
The extruder moves in the X direction but weighs nearly nothing. The Z
direction moves about 0.2 mm every few minutes So if there is any
movement it is near the base near the table. There is not much mass to
shake the vertical beams
But the reason I bolted the printer to the workbench is to keep the
alignment stable. Once getting the bed level, moving the printer would
un-level it. The screws prevents me from moving the printer with my hands.
If the workbench were a ground granite slab then I guess I would not care
but it is wood and not close to flat. Guy wires would not help. What I
cared about was the base warping and changing shape. You can not pick up a
printer and move it and expect not to have to re-align it. So I bolted it
down and now it is more stable and will keep alignment for days at a time.
What happens is that a part gets stuck to the build plate and some force is
needed to remove it. The force applied by my fingers (or a plastic mallet
and plastic putty knife) and moves the printer. Yes I have to resort to
the mallet frequently. It is the least-bad option. I'd rather need to pry
the part off the table then to have it come loose half way though the
print. But if you use any force you move the printer. Some people solve
this differently. Long learning process and then you tend to stick with
whatever works.
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