I think it is best to back up and look at the bigger picture.  Solid
couplers are almost never the way to go.   Or if you do use a solid couple
the motor or encoders needs to be mounted with rubber bushings.    I
shouldn't be 100% solid.

Buy one of these, then bore of one of the holes for the larger shaft.
aliexpress.com/item/1005002515369464.html
<https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002515369464.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.66a55ba8X6BPzA&aem_p4p_detail=202106180916204351489560580880019183962>

That said, I've made couplers and I think as long as you do all the
drilling and boring *without ever removing the part* from the chuck it is
as concentric as your lathe can make it.    You get better results using
shorter drill bits.

On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 8:52 AM John Dammeyer <jo...@autoartisans.com>
wrote:

> This isn't as much a LinuxCNC question but more of an approach to how to
> machine something.
>
> The attached photo shows a coupler from a 3/8" encoder to 14mm Servo Motor
> so I can test on the bench the Pi4 closed loop encoder behavior.
>
> This one didn't turn out very well.  I drilled all the way through and
> then used a reamer to bring it to 3/8".  It's a firm sliding fit on the
> encoder shaft.  Without removing it from the chuck I then drilled halfway
> to 13mm and then used a 14mm reamer to bring it to size, testing with the
> motor shaft.
>
> Problem was the reamer was slightly tapered at the front so it did a poor
> job.  I finished it up with the boring tool but maybe a few thou too
> large.  However the wobble seems much worse than that.
>
> I'm thinking the better approach would be to drill all the way through
> undersize 3/8" and then drill half way with 13mm.  Then only use the boring
> tool to bring the back half up to 3/8" and the front up to 14mm.  This way
> if the initial hole wasn't concentric with rotation the boring tool would
> ensure it is.
>
> Make sense?  Or is there a better way?
>
> Thanks
> John
>
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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