Miha Valencic wrote: | I've been shooting on slide film with flash and got some overexposed slides. | Actually, only the subjects were overexposed. Did not use FEL. The active | focus point was on the face. I did vary the amount of flash output. I got | best results between -1.5 or -2 FEC. | | On prints (negative film) it looks good. All the photos were taken from a | distance of 2-3m (6-9 feet). EOS 30 & Sigma500Super. | | Gerard, I remember you said that you use -1.5 FEC (od -2 FEC) all the time?
When shooting slides, my results with the EOS-3 and 550EX/380EX were more or less OK except when there was a big difference in exposure between the face/subject and the background - then exposure was all over the place. It would usually blast the subject with excess light. Sometimes the whole scene would be underexposed. I noticed this happened most when I chose an off-centre focusing point. I haven't done tests with slide film on my EOS-30, but I suppose it shouldn't be vastly different. When I used FEL, the exposure has been very accurate both on the EOS-3 and 30, but when shooting in real time FEL is not an option. These days, when I shoot with flash indoors, I try to make the subject fill the frame - that has given me very accurate flash exposure. If I know I won't be able to do that, I use print film. With print film, it's a different story. I usually rate NPH at 250 and Supra 800 at 500, dial in -2/3 or -1/2 (or -1, depending on the situation) stop on the flash and shoot away. There's enough latitude to give me decent results. That said, if you find yourself getting CONSISTENT results using -1.5 or -2 stops FEC, then shoot away at that setting. * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
