EV Digest 4461
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Digi-Key
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Where are my amp hours?
by "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: discontinued Siemens motors
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: What is the balance point for a Hybrid design?
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Looking for a smarter E-meter
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Digi-Key
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: discontinued Siemens motors
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: discontinued Siemens motors
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Simulations taking into account controller limitations
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Need Charger Recommendation
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Garden Tractor Conversion - Craftsman?
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) unsubscribe
by "Chris Flaccus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) State of Charge calculations
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: State of Charge calculations
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Antique hybrid idea
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Charging problem... or maybe misunderstading EMeter
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re:acceleration problem/help
by "john" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) The Aspire is gone. Long live the Aspire.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Russco heaters.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Dean Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Garden Tractor Conversion - Craftsman?
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: acceleration problem/help
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Need Charger Recommendation
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) Re: Russco heaters.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
Allied & Newark are larger, so that's 2 of the 7 anyway.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 12:59 AM
Subject: Digi-Key
> I got a catalog in the mail from them and the enclosed letter said
> they have grown from the 20th largest electronic distributor in the
> world, to the 8th largest.
>
> Makes me wonder what the first 7 companies are. Anyone know which is
> the largest, or the first 3 or?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Garret, I would like to see your bike sometime this summer. I live in
Thornton. I am in the planning stages of an '87 Cabriolet. I am going to
start disassembly in a month or two.
> Stephen Paschke
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
> Office 303-607-2993
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Maki, Garret
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:41 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Where are my amp hours?
Hi all,
I built my first conversion this spring. It is a motorcycle.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/newsubmissions/maki_.html
<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/newsubmissions/maki_.html>
I am using new Trojan SCS150 flooded batteries rated at 100AH C20 rate. I
have an e-meter installed. I had the amp hour set on the emeter set for
100AH and the perkerts exponent set conservatively at .35. I rode it and
the 4 fuel gauge leds at the top never came off full charge and the
batteries ran down to pretty much empty.
Then I set the emeter down to 80AH.
I have never go the emeter to read more than 17 AH used and the batteries
are flat. I have an Alltrax 450 amp controller and I never see more than
170 peak battery amps draw.
I don't get it. Where is all my energy going. I don't know if the
batteries aren't putting out the AH they are supposed to or if the emeter
isn't working correctly. I am not sure how to troubleshoot from here.
I am frustrated. Any advice?
Garret
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Charles Whalen wrote:
Does Victor or anyone over there in Europe know what's going on with
Siemens? Are they getting out of the motor business at the lower end of the
My understanding is that Victor is not selling "new from Siemens"
hardware. All of his equipment was originally designed and built for
electric car programs in Europe. When those programs were dismantled
the equipment was surplus'd to a firm in Europe. Victor imports and
supports the surplus'd equipment in the US.
Advantages are that this hardware was custom packaged for the auto
market. Disadvantage is that you do not know how long it will be
available. Great for one off conversions..
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 28 Jun 2005 at 13:15, Stu or Jan wrote:
> I am getting a little confused here about which system is more efficient.
> I know that two 90% reliable system in parallel will yield 99%
> reliability.
>
I can't see how reliability has anything to do with efficiency. However it's
generally accepted that a parallel hybrid is more efficient that a series
hybrid
because there are fewer energy conversions involved.
FWIW, the Honda quasi-hybrid system is based on a parallel hybrid design.
It could be argued that the Toyota Prius is both a series and parallel hybrid
simultaneously!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some one already asked, and this was just the typo - I meant
20/80 (or rather 80/20) "rule" most people think is about ideal.
Victor
David Roden wrote:
On 27 Jun 2005 at 10:59, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
not conforming to 12/80
principle.
Sorry, Victor, but I'm "drawing a blank." May I ask, what is the 12/80
principle?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
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Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use "evdl at drmm period net."
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It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in argument.
-- William G. McAdoo
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Newark (Farnell in Europe)
Arrow
don't know other largest, but these are certainly bigger than digikey
Ryan Stotts wrote:
I got a catalog in the mail from them and the enclosed letter said
they have grown from the 20th largest electronic distributor in the
world, to the 8th largest.
Makes me wonder what the first 7 companies are. Anyone know which is
the largest, or the first 3 or?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Farver wrote:
Charles Whalen wrote:
Does Victor or anyone over there in Europe know what's going on with
Siemens? Are they getting out of the motor business at the lower end
of the
My understanding is that Victor is not selling "new from Siemens"
hardware.
It is new (just manufactured, unused, pachaged in new cartons)
and "from Siemens" e.g. made by genuine Siemens AG in Germany,
but it is not a distribution of Siemens hardware initiated
by them - it is aquiring their overstock, adding remaining
components (contactors, interfaces, software) making ready
for installation.
All of his equipment was originally designed and built for
electric car programs in Europe. When those programs were dismantled
the equipment was surplus'd to a firm in Europe. Victor imports and
supports the surplus'd equipment in the US.
Yes, exactly right.
Advantages are that this hardware was custom packaged for the auto
market. Disadvantage is that you do not know how long it will be
available. Great for one off conversions..
Mark Farver
If they get large orders, the ywill built motors. They can build
them today if interested enough (meaning ~100 or more motors)
meaning they are not really dismantled, just put production on
hold. This is custom enough hardware not to manufacture it
unless there is definite customer waiting.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Charles Whalen wrote:
I guess I'll have to look into the MES motors, although I don't believe
anyone over here in the States has done a conversion with them, at least not
that I can see on the EV Album. So that's a pretty big unknown as far as
the lack of any empirical record; no one to ask about their experience with
MES motors, although I heard that they are being used in some limited
production OEM EVs in Europe.
Charles
You will see one example quite soon. No one wants to take first step,
and everyone wants someone else to risk [money] to "unknown".
I nay disagree with it, but it is perfectly understandable and very
personal choice one have to make - absolutely nothing wrong with it.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor and I had a great discussion last night about the 1/4 mile and 0-60
simulations I am developing. He explained quite well how sometimes the
power to the wheels may be a limitation of the controller, and not
necessarily the motor. Therefore it is always best to model with a motor
**and** a controller. My models are based soley on the **motor** rpm/torque
charts and do not take the controller into account.
That being said, Victor has some matlab software for simulations - this is
good, but I do not have matlab and I do not want to bog down Victor with
endless hours of simulations while I try to figure out gear ratios, motor
sizes, battery sizes, etc etc.
The spreadsheets and macros I have are working out pretty well, and I would
like to adjust them for controller limitations - even if it is brute force
approximate. Largely I am running comparative models so see which
combinations of motors, controllers, multiples thereof, gear ratios, tire
sizes etc. would work best for 1/4 mile, top speed, 0-60 and 50-80.
Does anybody have suggestions on simplistic formulas I can include in my
motor to compensate for controller limitations?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I hooked it up directly to a 12V battery, but it still jumps to 2000 RPM.
So there must be something else going on. Maybe I need that Noise
Suppression Filter between the tach and ground.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 8:14 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Tachometer Hookup
Bill Dennis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >Figure 3 pulses per rev = 667 pulses per minute = 40,020
> > pulses per sec = 40 khz. That sounds a little more realistic.
>
> Hm, 500 pulses per second * 60 seconds = 30000 pulses. 30000
> / 3 = 10000 RPM. So that seems a little fast for the 2000
> RPM that's showing.
I'm not sure about your crank-triggered tach, but ignition triggered
tachs operate on 0.5 x # of cylinders pulses per rev. That is, a 4 cyl
engine's tach expects 2 pulses per rev (because only 2 of the cylinders
fire per rev, or, from another angle, on a 4-stroke engine each cylinder
fires every second revolution since 4-strokes = 2 up, and 2 down and
there is one up and down per rev).
2000RPM x 1.5 pulses/rev = 3000 pulses/min = 50 Hz. Possibly your tach
is responding to 60 or 120Hz ripple on the power supply, or responding
oddly to the much higher switching frequency or other noise on the
supply.
> If smoother DC is the solution, would it work to hook the
> negative terminal of the car's original battery to the PC
> power supply's ground, then take the 12V from the car battery
> and the ground pulses from the parallel port?
Yes. Well, maybe ;^> This will provide the tach with a clean supply,
but your pulses from the parallel port will (I believe) swing between
+5V and ground, which may or may not satisfy the tach.
I picked up a factory instrument cluster (with tach) from a wrecker for
my Suzuki Forsa (Chevy Sprint) conversion, which was also originally
powered by a 3-cyl ICE. I connected it up to a DC supply and used a
signal generator to drive the tach input for testing. I don't have my
notes handy to confirm for sure that it adhered to the 1.5 pulses/rev (3
pulses/2 rev), but certainly it did indicate 0 RPM with no signal
applied to the tach input and indicated increasing RPM with increasing
frequency applied to the tach input.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I hooked it up directly to a 12V battery, but it still jumps
> to 2000 RPM. So there must be something else going on. Maybe
> I need that Noise Suppression Filter between the tach and ground.
If it is an issue with the tach sense signal, then simply pulling that
line high or low (via a resistor for safety) should avoid it.
One possibility is that the tach may *not* be intended to run from +12V.
Often the instrument cluster includes or runs off of a 'voltage
stabiliser' which reduces/regulates the variable +12V supply to a
constant lower value such as 10V. This is/was done to keep the guages
from waggling around as the +12V system voltage varied with engine speed
and electrical system load.
Since I ran my cluster from a power supply when I tested it, it is
possible that I ran it at less than +12V.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea
I could be doing Grid powered charger that make more watts than a racing
controller from a couple of years ago.
I will spend more time on that one once I see the first check...... If ya
know what I mean???
I have the Watts ! How fast do you want to go?
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
Would 10k do it? Or more? Educated guess? Sorry to pester but maybe
something like this could be purchased by an EV association. It could fill
three 1200 pound packs an hour to 80%. Lead that is.....With that kind of
charging my lousy 60 mile car could be functional for long
trips.......LR..........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The craftman tractor my father gave me died. The repair bill is at minimum half
the cost of new one so I was thinking of converting it to electric. It was a
15.5hp automatic with a 2 blade 42" deck. I only need to mow 3/4" an acre of
lawn.
I have some money invested in a new bagger for it so if I'm not in too big a
hole starting with a tractor rather then a riding mower i'd rather do that
since the tractor, bagger and mulching kit are free. I have looked online at
some riding mower conversions but besides the electrak I(not a conversion I
know) haven't seen a tractor. The riding mowers look like they use 3hp for
moving and 1hp each blade. I don't think I should need much more then that as
or is a tractor that much different?
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The service manual shows it going directly from the ignition fuse to the
tach, and directly from the tach to ground. If there's a voltage reduction,
It'd be done directly in the tach's circuit board. I'll try hooking up the
Noise Suppression Filter tonight and see if that makes any difference.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 1:18 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Tachometer Hookup
Bill Dennis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I hooked it up directly to a 12V battery, but it still jumps
> to 2000 RPM. So there must be something else going on. Maybe
> I need that Noise Suppression Filter between the tach and ground.
If it is an issue with the tach sense signal, then simply pulling that
line high or low (via a resistor for safety) should avoid it.
One possibility is that the tach may *not* be intended to run from +12V.
Often the instrument cluster includes or runs off of a 'voltage
stabiliser' which reduces/regulates the variable +12V supply to a
constant lower value such as 10V. This is/was done to keep the guages
from waggling around as the +12V system voltage varied with engine speed
and electrical system load.
Since I ran my cluster from a power supply when I tested it, it is
possible that I ran it at less than +12V.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
unsubscribe
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 10:51 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: EV digest 4460
EV Digest 4460
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Small diesel for lightweight or auxiliary or charger?
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: biz is booming
by "john" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: on Ebay: 2004 Toyota Prius Wrecked Salvage
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) EV selling stratagies, Re: biz is booming
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Acceleration Calculations
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Looking for a smarter E-meter
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Digi-Key
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re:Tachometer Hookup
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) E mail Address
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Tachometer Hookup
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: ComutaCar "rescue"an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Charging problem... or maybe misunderstading EMeter
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: ComutaCar "rescue"an' Stuff
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Tachometer Hookup
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Datalogging Laptop for sale.
by James Jarrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Need Charger Recommendation
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re:Tachometer Hookup
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Antique hybrid idea
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) What is the balance point for a Hybrid design?
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Antique hybrid idea
by "Harris, Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Where are my amp hours?
by "Maki, Garret" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) discontinued Siemens motors
by "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm wondering about the SOC algorithm, assuming you have a logfile with
current, volts, and you know battery chemistry, AH, peukerts, etc:
What sort of time resolution would you need for the volts / current? 1
sample per second? 10 samples per second?
Can you simply use the known V, I, and peukerts, calculate each data
sample, and subtract from the A/H?
Anyone know the algorithm?
Lee, I'm looking at you! =)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> What sort of time resolution would you need for the volts /
> current? 1 sample per second? 10 samples per second?
During charge you can easily manage with 1 sample per second or less
because the voltage and current don't change particularly rapidly.
However, during discharge you must sample *much* faster if you are to
accurately account for the huge and rapid variations in load current.
If you have an RS232 E-Meter, look at the data log following a drive.
The E-Meter spits out data samples every second, and if you import this
data into Excel and try to integrate the current samples vs time to get
Ah removed from the battery, you will find that the value you get does
not agree very well with the Ah value reported by the E-Meter. This is
because although the E-Meter reports data at 1 second intervals, it
internally samples *much* faster and updates its Ah counter more
frequently than once per second. If you repeat this exercise during a
charge cycle, you will find that Excel and the E-Meter agree closely
with respect to the Ah removed, once you account for the CEF that the
E-Meter applies to 'discount' the Ah returned to the battery (i.e. with
a typical CEF of 0.9, Excel will correctly compute 10Ah returned to the
battery for every 9Ah that the E-Meter reports; with a CEF of 0.99 this
difference almost disappears).
As for SOC algorithms, well, that is where the magic is! I'm as
interested as anyone to hear thoughts on worthwhile SOC estimation
algorithms...
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Doug Weathers wrote:
> I focused on the flywheel rather than the engine. I think flywheels
> might be another valuable "battery" technology that should be studied.
Yes, it is also hopeful. However, you need enormous rpm to match the
energy density of off-the-shelf batteries. Making flywheels that can
stand such rpms, and the associated motor/generator and controller, has
turned out to be a non-trivial effort.
>> With the valves working, it runs like a normal engine.
>> With the valves off, it just freewheels -- the piston moves up
>> and down, but there are no pumping losses. The trapped air in
>> the combustion chamber just acts like a spring, returning the
>> energy it takes for compression on the downstroke.
> What about heat losses? Compressing the air over and over again would
> generate quite a lot of heat
Yes; this is the pumping loss that a normal engine suffers. But if the
valves are closed, then the same air is compressed (and heated) on the
upstroke), and expands (and cools) on the downstroke. The air winds up
with no net change in temperature or pressure; thus no energy loss.
There are still frictional losses, but these must be fairly low, as
these old hit-n-miss engines would coast for many seconds with the
valves off.
I also suspect that a system that actually uncouples the
crank/rod/piston from the flywheel during the off-time might improve
things even further. The crank would make two revolutions and stop; two
revolutions and stop, etc. while the flywheel keeps spinning.
> It might work. Here's one possibility:
> The flywheel is coupled to an electric motor/generator as well as the
> dam-dam engine. The motor spins up the flywheel while the car is
> "charging" in the garage. It can also as a starter motor to start up
> the dam-dam engine in case the flywheel has wound down.
See above; right now, flywheels are far more expensive pound-for-pound
than batteries. But, a flywheel is practical for a few *seconds* of
energy storage. The motor/generator could provide smooth, continuous
power output from a flywheel that is experiencing substantial speed
changes as the hit-n-miss engine fires occasionally.
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nobody's responded, so I'll take a couple of pokes at
this one.
1) I have pin one on the DIP switches down on my
PFC-20. That gets the timer function on AFTER the
voltage increases, and the current is tapering down.
All of the rest of the DIPswitches are OFF. How are
yours set?
2) I have my e-meter set to give KwH, not Ah, and
certainly not percents. If you're getting CEF
(charging efficiencies, under "special settings"),
you've altered the factory settings from 90%. I've
never done that, personally. The e-meter has to have
more than 100% to compensate for charging
inefficiencies. In other words, some of your juice is
converted to heat. So you must put in extra juice to
get the batts. topped off.
3) Make sure that when you pull current OUT of the
batts., the Ah/kWh get MORE negative, and when you put
juice into the batts., they get LESS negative. If
you've hooked up the e-meter right, you will be left
with POSITIVE kWh or Ah on the counter, not negative!
(exclaimation for emphasis, not indignation). (;-p
Hope this gets you started, bro.
peace,
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm not sure if I'm having problems, or simply
> misunderstanding my equipment.
>
> Monday morning I came out to my truck, and as I was
> getting ready to leave noticed my EMeter was at 88%.
> The truck was still plugged in when I came out, and
> I could hear the PFC20 humming along, so I know it
> didn't trip the GFI. I hopped in the gasser
> thinking there was a problem. Monday evening I
> plugged it back in to see if it would charge to
> 100%. I forgot about it till this morning, and when
> I got in... still at 88%. Oddly though, the KWh
> (amps) counter was at about -.5.
>
> I had thought the KWh/Amp counter and "Fuel"
> percentage were connected... am I mistaken?
>
> The other question is why (after 6 weeks of fairly
> predictable charging) have I ended up 12% off. My
> first (and only) guess so far is that it's due to
> the extremely hot weather we've been having (upper
> 90's for about two weeks now). Unfortunately I've
> not gotten my head around the PFC20 voltage trim Vs
> temperature relation at this point... or it may be
> better to say I haven't gotten my head around lead
> acid battery voltage VS temperature.
>
> Am I having several newbie issues all at once?
>
> Glenn
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I recently purchased a 1985 Dodge ram conversion. When I take off it goes
just fine but when I stop and start again sometimes it will not go. I need
to pump the accelerator about 4 times then it takes off. Any ideas of why
this is happening? I'm a newbie so need some guidance. It has an Auburn
C600 DC controller, Advanced D.C. motor FB1-4001 with a 144 batt pack.
I'm thinking it may also be the potbox..??
Thanks for any help John Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: Welding on the cheap, part 3, High Frequency
>
> Not having used one, how much better is stick welding with an hf?
>
> Is it 'ON' all the time?
>
> Will it help both AC as well as DC?
>
>
> I'd like to hear about the 'feel' of it.
>
> Price?
>
> BoyntonStu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 11:10 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Welding on the cheap, part 3, High Frequency
>
> I have about 7used hf assemblies in stock if anyone is in need. D.Berube
>
>
>
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After sucking every single usable part off the Aspire the tow truck came and
90 bucks later bye bye 97 Aspire and into the garage goes the donor 1994
Aspire. I still need some parts. Some nice offers have been made. I soon
may have a working Aspire back in service at 144v this time. Lighter and
faster. Just a bit less range.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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I have a 120v Russco heater that I've never hooked up. Can it go to 144v.
If not it's for sale.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Roger Stockton wrote:
> Zilla cooling
> popular route using a submersible aquarium pump; not sure why more
> people don't use readily available submersible 12V bilge pumps
> instead...
I'm trying to find a small 12v DC marine bilge pump, about 2 gpm..
seen any this small (low amps mainly)?
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I'm at a loss on the tachometer. I hooked up the noise suppression filter
and hooked the tach to a 12V battery. But as soon as I make the connection,
it shoots up to 2000 RPM and stays there. I've triple checked that I've got
the correct wires going to the places they should.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 1:41 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Tachometer Hookup
The service manual shows it going directly from the ignition fuse to the
tach, and directly from the tach to ground. If there's a voltage reduction,
It'd be done directly in the tach's circuit board. I'll try hooking up the
Noise Suppression Filter tonight and see if that makes any difference.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 1:18 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Tachometer Hookup
Bill Dennis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I hooked it up directly to a 12V battery, but it still jumps
> to 2000 RPM. So there must be something else going on. Maybe
> I need that Noise Suppression Filter between the tach and ground.
If it is an issue with the tach sense signal, then simply pulling that
line high or low (via a resistor for safety) should avoid it.
One possibility is that the tach may *not* be intended to run from +12V.
Often the instrument cluster includes or runs off of a 'voltage
stabiliser' which reduces/regulates the variable +12V supply to a
constant lower value such as 10V. This is/was done to keep the guages
from waggling around as the +12V system voltage varied with engine speed
and electrical system load.
Since I ran my cluster from a power supply when I tested it, it is
possible that I ran it at less than +12V.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
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>I'm at a loss on the tachometer. I hooked up the noise suppression filter
>and hooked the tach to a 12V battery. But as soon as I make the
>connection, it shoots up to 2000 RPM and stays there. I've triple checked
>that I've got the correct wires going to the places they should.
>
>Bill Dennis
Bill, did you try what Roger said? I.e. hooking the sense input to -ve (via
a resistor) when you test the tach.
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Bill Dennis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm at a loss on the tachometer. I hooked up the noise
> suppression filter and hooked the tach to a 12V battery. But
> as soon as I make the connection, it shoots up to 2000 RPM
> and stays there. I've triple checked that I've got the
> correct wires going to the places they should.
Given that it seems that 2000RPM should correspond to a signal of about
50-60Hz, perhaps the tach is picking up 60Hz EMI from things like nearby
flourescent lights, etc. at your test bench?
If you tie the RPM input high or low via a lowish value resistor (e.g.
1K), this should eliminate the possibility of noise pickup via this
lead. It still leaves the possiblility of noise pickup within the meter
itself.
The noise supression filter you've connected might be enough to keep the
RPM input clean, or not (it is probably designed for rejecting much
higher frequencies, since 50-60Hz is close to the middle of the tach's
normal operating range and therefore cannot be blocked by the filter).
Cheers,
Roger.
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Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm trying to find a small 12v DC marine bilge pump, about 2 gpm..
> seen any this small (low amps mainly)?
Googling on "bilge pumps" turns up this useful review:
<http://www.powerboat-reports.com/sample/bilge.html>
Looking at the data, it appears that either the Rule 24 or West Marine
500 may be the closest match for your needs. Both flow over 2x what you
are looking for (i.e. 255-330gph vs 120gph). The Rule moves a little
less water but draws a bit more current ([EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]).
The
West Marine draws [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] Both are cheap.
I haven't seen any rated for less flow than these, but if you search the
marine stores you might find one. The other option might be simply
using a windshield washer pump, however, you'd have to test it to see if
it is actually any less thirsty than these, and to see if it stands up
to continuous (or near continuous) operation for the 30-60min that a
conversion can typically drive on a charge.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
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Hello to All,
Mark Hastings wrote:
> The craftman tractor my father gave me died... I was thinking of converting
> it to electric....I have looked online at some riding mower conversions but
> besides the electrak I haven't seen a tractor.
Mark, you don't know about my 'Heavy Metal Garden Tractor'? It's on the EV
Photo Album, been there since '98 or so.
Formerly an MTD, the same people who make the Sears Craftsman tractors.
See Ya......John Wayland
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Roger Stockton wrote:
> less water but draws a bit more current ([EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL
> PROTECTED]). The
> West Marine draws [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] Both are cheap.
Compare the amp draw of those to this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45305
Now how much does an inverter eat up(amps)?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47639
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Bad (worn) accelerator pot or loose connection to it.
Ohm the wiring and/or replace the pot to test this suspicion.
Victor
john wrote:
I recently purchased a 1985 Dodge ram conversion. When I take off it goes
just fine but when I stop and start again sometimes it will not go. I need
to pump the accelerator about 4 times then it takes off. Any ideas of why
this is happening? I'm a newbie so need some guidance. It has an Auburn
C600 DC controller, Advanced D.C. motor FB1-4001 with a 144 batt pack.
I'm thinking it may also be the potbox..??
Thanks for any help John Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: Welding on the cheap, part 3, High Frequency
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Roger Stockton wrote:
>
> > less water but draws a bit more current ([EMAIL PROTECTED],
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]). The
> > West Marine draws [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] Both are cheap.
>
> Compare the amp draw of those to this:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45305
It isn't the amp draw that you need to consider, but the *power*.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] is 16.8W (if the pump meets its specs). [EMAIL PROTECTED] is
24.5W
and [EMAIL PROTECTED] is 17.1W (both actual tested values rather than
manufacturer's specs).
> Now how much does an inverter eat up(amps)?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47639
Well, the ad suggests the peak efficiency is 90%, but it is a 175W
inverter running a <20W load, so its actual efficiency will probably be
considerably lower.
If the inverter actually ran at 90% efficiency, and if the motor
actually ran at 16.8W on the modified sinewave output, then you're
looking at about 18.7W from the 12V system. Basically, the *best* case
with the AC pump is worse than the best case with the DC pump but better
than the worst case with the DC pump. At the same time, the DC pump is
moving about 2x the water as the AC pump, so in terms of work done it is
*way* more efficient (even if you really didn't need that much water
moved ;^).
I suppose it is a matter of personal preference. The AC pump should
last longer, but $20-30 Chinese inverters may not. Installing an
inverter to convert 12VDC to 120VAC to run an AC pump instead of using a
12V pump with similar power consumption to start with seems like an
inelegant solution to me, but that's just my opinion...
Cheers,
Roger.
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That's what most are using the PFC50 for quick hard charges.
Keep in mind that these chargers will charge just about anything, But at
less than 100 volts they make a LOT of heat.
Try 1600 lbs pack in one hour. Gp has 40 Orbs...I can fill her in 60 minutes
to about %90. The taper should be long and slow after a slam like this.
I just lit off a PFC50BX or Xrev or ...PFC75, it makes more amps at a lower
voltage than I have ever seen. This is not what I intend to do with
it...just that it just did so. I intend to lock this into 75 amps max, Grid
or DC. Still 75 amps of grid is 18 kw and that's a LOT of grunt.
I need to find out how long it can do this before it gets too hot to play
hardball.
That's for later tonight.
Dinner time.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: Need Charger Recommendation
> Yea
> I could be doing Grid powered charger that make more watts than a racing
> controller from a couple of years ago.
>
> I will spend more time on that one once I see the first check...... If ya
> know what I mean???
>
> I have the Watts ! How fast do you want to go?
>
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
>
> Would 10k do it? Or more? Educated guess? Sorry to pester but maybe
> something like this could be purchased by an EV association. It could
fill
> three 1200 pound packs an hour to 80%. Lead that is.....With that kind of
> charging my lousy 60 mile car could be functional for long
> trips.......LR..........
>
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> I have a 120v Russco heater that I've never hooked up. Can it go to 144v.
> If not it's for sale.
> Lawrence Rhodes
Russco manufactured hydronic (hot water) heaters for EV's ten years ago.
About fifteen different models were produced in four wattages, 1500, 2000,
2500, and 3000 watts. Voltages started at 72 volts and went up to 336
volts.
One-hundred-twenty volt heaters were produced in 1500, 2000, and 3000 watt
units. One-hundred-forty-four volt heaters were produced in 2000 and 3000
watts. During production, there was no reason to use a 120 volt heater on
144 volts, since 144 volt heaters were available. To use a 120 volt
heater at 144 volts will overload the internal power wiring and blow the
high voltage fuse.
And then Russco got tired of being a plumber and became charger man.
Tomorrow, controller man.
Russ Kaufmann
RUSSCO Engineering
The Other PFC Charger With GFCI
Relocating to Grants Pass, Oregon
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