EV Digest 4514
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: A vehicle licensing idea
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) OT Battery question
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Capstone turbine on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) RE: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Capstone turbine on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Prius
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Prius
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Prius
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Prius
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Friction drive question.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Prius
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) 2 speed jackshaft with shifter $15
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: TS Undervoltage Detection
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Prius
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Dymaxion for hybrid RV , Aero, ground effect and Van conversion
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Re: Prius
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: OT: Another idea that probably won't work
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Ford Rangers
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) Exciting - No gasoline in Northwest Florida
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Ford Rangers
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Aerodynamic drag causes, Re: Dymaxion for hybrid RV , Aero, ground effect
and Van conversion
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Ford Rangers
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Old Prius batteries for use in EV
by "djsharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Ford Rangers
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) Re: Old Prius batteries for use in EV
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
The drive units on most starters are one-way clutches, with pretty good
torque ratings. They are designed to work with smooth shafts, and can be
found easily at auto parts stores. Just a bit of info.
With enough patience,
you can milk a porcupine
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 8:07 AM
Subject: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
Finding a one-way clutch that doesn't have a lot of drag, is a reasonable
size and can handle a bunch of torque is pretty hard. Here's something I
came across while playing with an HPV years ago:
http://www.epilogics.com/md/
HTH,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The issue is not all states have same regulations regarding 3 wheel vehicles.
For example Corbin Sparrow fought for motorcycle 3 wheel status and the ability
to ride without a helmet due to being fully enclosed. Some states have weight
limitation on 3 wheelers as well. You'll have to go to 3 wheeler Group and
trace laws by different states. HMS Freeway had similar issues.
I am a fan of 3 wheelers. As is Jerry
Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
When I was in GA, my neighbor and her parents had a number of converted VWs,
including 2 bugs and a Karmann Ghia that had only one wheel in front. They
were VW from the front firewall on back for one bug. The Karmann Ghia was VW
from the back seat back. They were registered as motorcycles, with the small
license plate and all. They had to wear helmets whenever they rode in (on?)
them.
With enough patience,
you can milk a porcupine
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu or Jan"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 6:27 AM
Subject: A vehicle licensing idea
>A vehicle licensing idea
>
> In the state of Florida, all 3 wheel vehicles are considered motorcycles.
> There are fewer fees, insurance, and other requirements.
> Almost anything goes.
>
> Doesn't it follow logically that if one removed the 2 wheels from a 'car'
> and replaced them with a single rear wheel, we would have a 'motorcycle'?
>
>
> BoyntonStu
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
These folks seem to use a simlar design:
http://www.meansindustries.com/oneway.html
"up to 2700 ft lbs." (wow)
--chris
Chris Tromley said:
> Finding a one-way clutch that doesn't have a lot of drag, is a reasonable
> size and can handle a bunch of torque is pretty hard. Here's something I
> came across while playing with an HPV years ago:
>
> http://www.epilogics.com/md/
>
> HTH,
> Chris
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One of the ideas for a simple 2-speed transmission involves having 2
shafts connected with chain or belts (or even gears) of differing
sizes. On the output shaft, the lower-speed ratio has a one-way clutch,
and the higher speed has an electrically operated clutch. When the
higher speed is engaged, the output shaft turns faster, and the one-way
clutch then free-wheels.
Of course, the devil is in the details, especially finding one-way and
electric clutches that can handle the torque and speed, although you
could replace the electric clutch with a standard fork-actuated splined
shaft dog.
The other problem is what to do in reverse gear.
Chris Tromley wrote:
Finding a one-way clutch that doesn't have a lot of drag, is a reasonable
size and can handle a bunch of torque is pretty hard. Here's something I
came across while playing with an HPV years ago:
http://www.epilogics.com/md/
HTH,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a machine tool (wire EDM) that uses a 6v 36AH gell battery for
memory backup. The battery from the machine manufacture is way over
priced. I can get an AGM for a much better price. The battery sits on
float charge all the time until the power goes out, what would be the
difference in float voltage between the gell and the AGM? The float
voltage now is 7.0 volts but it looks like I can adjust it a bit.
Thanks
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
30kW output might make quite the hybrid!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4394999470
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
BoyntonStu wrote:
> Chris,
>
> I wonder how much HP would a pair of 'good' quality bicycle freewheels
> take
> if used in parallel?
>
> Any idea?
Disclaimer: I know almost zip about bicycle mechanicals.
I do know a good cyclist has a peak of only around 2 hp, and not for very
long. An Etek can produce 15 hp peak, 7 hp continuously. But it's torque
more than hp that limits a bicycle freewheel. Some cyclists can produce a
staggering amount of force at the pedal, but what can be applied to the
freewheel is limited by the bike's configuration (it just does a wheelie).
Bottom line, a bicycle freewheel won't take much. A bicycle expert would be
able to give you numbers.
If a bicycle freewheel is a ratchet mechanism, using two in parallel would
require aligning them properly so they both carry equal load. Do it wrong
and the second freewheel does nothing but add weight and complexity.
My gut feeling is that bicycle components have been refined over a very long
history to handle the loads of their target application while minimizing
weight. It is not likely that they will be a good choice in an application
where the potential power is increased by a factor of two or three. Maybe
in some cases, but you need to pay close attention to what you're doing.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill,
You'd want to *reduce* the throttle when the cell reaches
2.5V (or whatever you set) and maintain this, not just cut
the thtottle off at that point. As soon as you turn it off
abruptly, the voltage re-bounces up, controller engages
again, the vehicle lurch forward, voltage drop, and the cycle
repeats - you will experience very unpleasant oscillation.
A low pass filter somewhere in that loop will make whole setup
more stable.
Shame the clampers do not have undervoltage detection too,
it would be quite trivial to accomplish that and drive the same
opto coupler already existing on them.
Victor
Bill Dennis wrote:
I'm thinking of putting the following circuit on each of my TS cells to
prevent undervoltage usage. 2.8V is the cutoff. The opto outputs from all
the cells will be paralleled together and attached to the throttle leads of
the 1231C controller. Should any cell fall below around 2.8V, this will
create a near-zero-ohm pathway (regardless of the resistance on the PB-6)
and cut power to the motor.
This is my first attempt at an op-amp circuit, so please let me know if
anything needs to be changed. One particular question: the opto can handle
50mA max--does the 1231C put more than 50mA through its throttle leads when
there are zero ohms? Thanks.
+ -------------------------
| 10K | |
| Pot +-----+ 4464 +--------+ ___ to 1231C throttle
| | |------|- | |
| +-----+ Ohms | LM-741 |___ |
_|_ | | OP-AMP | | |
_\_/_-------)--1.25V--|+ | +--------+
| REF- | +--------+ | OPTO |
| 3012 | | |H11A817C|
| | | +--------+
| | | \ |
| | | 100 / |
| | | Ohm \ |___ to 1231C throttle
| | | /
- ---------------------------------
Bill Dennis
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like it came from one of those Broward hybrid busses. There's
another bus on sale for less, but of course you need to do something
with said bus.
Chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
30kW output might make quite the hybrid!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4394999470
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In ACRX as it is being modified, the brake pedal is linked
to regen pot and has free play before mechanical brakes engage
(after 100% regen is demanded). If the pack is full and the car
looses regen, I just press firmer and the pads *gradually*
take over since regen does not disappear in instant.
So you don't feel any slowing down difference, and there are
no resistors to dump regen energy to.
Since the energy excess is lost anyway, may as well ventilated
brake pads designed for the job. No complications.
Victor
Evan Tuer wrote:
On 7/20/05, Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What happens to the Prius if you are descending a long/steep hill & have
charged up the battery pack & it cannot accept anymore charge? David
Typical result:
http://www.spankyspangler.com/pics/flames01.JPG
*snort*
What happens is the same thing that happens on my Prizm; the regen
circuitry cuts out and you rely more on your main brakes.
This is why you have to design an EV braking system to not rely on the
regen at all. I live at the top of a hill, and going down it in the
morning I can feel the main brakes crunching away.
I have the same situation, but have never noticed the regen going away
on my Citroen. The (nicad) batteries and controller are water cooled,
so I think either the system just lets the batteries turn the
overcharge into heat, or maybe there's a big watercooled resistor
somewhere that cuts in to prevent overvoltage.
-
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
If you're thinking regen, please keep these items in mind: (1) Regen
doesn't work too well when the batteries are full and (2) You really
should put in some sort of antilock code or logic in to keep the car
from locking the drive wheels when you touch the brake (due to max
regen). I think Solectra had a "bad weather" button to limit regen; I'd
recommend something a bit more automatic.
With AC rive regen is antilock by nature (in fact it can't be
non-antilock: if the wheels stop - no motor current, no more
regen back into the battery, so the motor "releases" until
start spinning fast enough for the next "cycle".
IF programmed right it will oscillate like this just like
antilock brakes do. Try it in a safe place, like long shallow
puddle with dry pavement ahead.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Problems with companies like this are along the lines of purchasing
small quantities, and the (really high) costs associated. Usually they
won't even give you the time of day unless you want to purchase
thousands of units.
Chris Tromley wrote:
Finding a one-way clutch that doesn't have a lot of drag, is a reasonable
size and can handle a bunch of torque is pretty hard. Here's something I
came across while playing with an HPV years ago:
http://www.epilogics.com/md/
HTH,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7/20/05, Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Christopher Zach wrote:
>
> > If you're thinking regen, please keep these items in mind: (1) Regen
> > doesn't work too well when the batteries are full and (2) You really
> > should put in some sort of antilock code or logic in to keep the car
> > from locking the drive wheels when you touch the brake (due to max
> > regen). I think Solectra had a "bad weather" button to limit regen; I'd
> > recommend something a bit more automatic.
>
> With AC rive regen is antilock by nature (in fact it can't be
> non-antilock: if the wheels stop - no motor current, no more
> regen back into the battery, so the motor "releases" until
> start spinning fast enough for the next "cycle".
>
I don't think it has anything to do with whether the drive is AC or DC
- in either case regen will quite happily slow the drive wheels down
until the torque required by the drive equals the available traction.
The wheels are not locked, but they won't be able to provide any more
braking force or lateral force for turning. But you might not notice
since there is not a typical sliding or screeching noise.
So, I'd say it's an additional hazard rather than a positive feature of regen.
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jul 19, 2005, at 3:28 PM, Nick Austin wrote:
Typical result:
http://www.spankyspangler.com/pics/flames01.JPG
NOT!
That is what the "B" shifter position is for. It puts the transaxle
into engine braking mode a lot like shifting down to second gear in a
normal automatic (except more graceful.)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Stu, Ryan and All,
While friction drives work, they are very
ineff with only about 50% of the power making it to
the road which is other than a short range bike, is
unexceptable. They are really bad to useles in the
rain.
That said I used on based on the EV worrior
friction drive for years. Set up correctly tire wear
was not a problem though tire bending friction was.
But with the same motor on 12v instead of
24v with chain drive that the motor runs 1/2 speed so
reduction is not so bad, you get a much better system
that you can drive in the rain too plus using a single
larger 12v batt and charger is so much cheaper than
24vdc without any range loss, in fact you can gain a
lot. How's that for a run on sentance ;-))
HTH's,
Jerry
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Stu or Jan wrote:
>
> > There is a friction drive on my recumbent trike.
>
> > At first, I had wear problems, but it was solved
> after grinding spline-like
> > grooves into the driver and smoothing down the
> cross hatch peaks.
>
> This site has some interesting info on various types
> of friction drives:
>
>
http://www.motorizedfoldupbikes.com/clutches.htm#rollers
>
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You're right about AC - DC (usually sepex) is the same,
I just was referring to my particular vehicle and settings.
Also, it *will* provide braking force on slippery surfaces
(as long as the battery
isn't full). May not be as effective as with ABS, but much better than
not having regen at all (using just pads). I can't see why it can't be
made just as effective - after all ABS is controlled by a computer that
can just as well control traction inverter to mimic identical
behavior of the vehicle.
In either case, perhaps discussed Prius setup is different
enough than mine and in regen-locked condition doesn't work
very well (I don't own Prius so quoting others who posted earlier).
In a pure EV as mine, where is also no engine compression braking
share, things are quite different.
May be because every parameter affecting regen behavior is
available to me for changing. Not sure how flexible Prius is
in that respect, but I doubt you get a software from Toyota
to play with these settings.
Evan Tuer wrote:
I don't think it has anything to do with whether the drive is AC or
DC - in either case regen will quite happily slow the drive wheels
down until the torque required by the drive equals the available
traction. The wheels are not locked, but they won't be able to
provide any more braking force or lateral force for turning. But you
might not notice since there is not a typical sliding or screeching
noise. So, I'd say it's an additional hazard rather than a positive
feature of regen.
EVan http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ebay 4562871469
10 hp
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe we are asking for something we really don't require.
Instead of a clutch, why not use a coupling?
Motorcycles do not use freewheels on their drives.
EV's don't usually have them either. It might pay to have one in order to
coast, but I am not sure of the benefit.
The freewheel is a way to couple 2 power sources to the same output and
allow one to idle while the other one pulls.
A pair of couplings would do the same and they could be much lighter and
stronger than freewheels. (Well maybe not lighter).
All you need is a clutch type mechanism with interlocking portions instead
of a friction pad. Heck, one could possibly use a plumbing union.
We ought to be able to come up with a fairly easy way to couple a 1" dia
shaft to another using a slide arrangement and perhaps even control it with
a bicycle brake cable.
BoyntonStu
----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 1:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: One-way clutch (was Freewheel...)
Problems with companies like this are along the lines of purchasing
small quantities, and the (really high) costs associated. Usually they
won't even give you the time of day unless you want to purchase
thousands of units.
Chris Tromley wrote:
>Finding a one-way clutch that doesn't have a lot of drag, is a reasonable
>size and can handle a bunch of torque is pretty hard. Here's something I
>came across while playing with an HPV years ago:
>
>http://www.epilogics.com/md/
>
>HTH,
>Chris
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>You'd want to *reduce* the throttle when the cell reaches
>2.5V (or whatever you set) and maintain this, not just cut
>the thtottle off at that point.
Thanks, Victor. For simplicity's sake, maybe I'll just modify the opto
output as diagrammed below. This should limit the resistance to a max. of
about 833 Ohm when the PB-6 is supplying a full 5K. A momentary toggle
switch on the dash, SW-1, will sit between the paralleled lines and one of
the 1231C's throttle inputs, which will need to be pressed to reset the
undervoltage condition.
Bill Dennis
SW-1, NC
+----_|_---- to 1231C throttle
|
|
+--------+
| OPTO |
|H11A817C|
+--------+
|________
| \
| / 100K
| \
_|_ /
SCR \_/-------
|
\
/
\ 1K
/
\__ to 1231C throttle
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Tromley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> BoyntonStu wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > I wonder how much HP would a pair of 'good' quality bicycle
> > freewheels take if used in parallel?
[snip]
> My gut feeling is that bicycle components have been refined
> over a very long history to handle the loads of their target
> application while minimizing weight. It is not likely that
> they will be a good choice in an application where the
> potential power is increased by a factor of two or three.
> Maybe in some cases, but you need to pay close attention to
> what you're doing.
FWIW, bicycle freewheels are used successfully in ELectrathon cars.
In our particular car, we are running a Scott 1HP motor, and have seen
it pull the full 275A available from our controller (from a stop).
Assuming the 24V AGM pack sags to 20-22V, this is 7.35-8hp from the
battery. 275A into the Scott motor produces 13 ft-lb of torque and
operates it at about 35% efficiency (~2.8hp out for 8hp from the
battery). I'm not sure offhand of our exact gearing, but it is
something like a 14-tooth sprocket on the motor and about a 50-tooth
sprocket on the wheel, which results in about 46 ft-lbs being applied to
the freewheel under these conditions. No problems at all yet.
Many (most?) Electrathon cars are now running the Etek motors, which are
capable of substantially more torque than our Scott, and they are still
running bicycle freewheels.
I think you will find that a cyclist can easily subject the freewheel to
torque in the neighbourhood of 100 ft-lbs (150-200lb cyclist standing on
an 8" crank with near 1:1 gearing).
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:19 PM 7/20/2005, you wrote:
You're right about AC - DC (usually sepex) is the same,
I just was referring to my particular vehicle and settings.
Also, it *will* provide braking force on slippery surfaces
(as long as the battery
isn't full). May not be as effective as with ABS, but much better than
not having regen at all (using just pads). I can't see why it can't be
made just as effective - after all ABS is controlled by a computer that
can just as well control traction inverter to mimic identical
behavior of the vehicle.
ABS has independent control of each wheel or at least each front wheel with
the two rears grouped together. When regening hard on slippery patches the
differential could cause problems if one side was on a slippery patch and
the other side was not.
In either case, perhaps discussed Prius setup is different
enough than mine and in regen-locked condition doesn't work
very well (I don't own Prius so quoting others who posted earlier).
In a pure EV as mine, where is also no engine compression braking
share, things are quite different.
May be because every parameter affecting regen behavior is
available to me for changing. Not sure how flexible Prius is
in that respect, but I doubt you get a software from Toyota
to play with these settings.
<< snip >>
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> I'm thinking of putting the following circuit on each of my
> TS cells to prevent undervoltage usage. 2.8V is the cutoff.
> The opto outputs from all the cells will be paralleled together
> and attached to the throttle leads of the 1231C controller.
> Should any cell fall below around 2.8V, this will create a
> near-zero-ohm pathway and cut power to the motor.
>
> This is my first attempt at an op-amp circuit...
>
> + -------------------------
> | 10K | |
> | Pot +-----+ 4464 +--------+ ___ to 1231C throttle
> | | |------|- | |
> | +-----+ Ohms | LM-741 |___ |
> _|_ | | OP-AMP | | |
> _\_/_-------)--1.25V--|+ | +--------+
> | REF- | +--------+ | OPTO |
> | 3012 | | |H11A817C|
> | | | +--------+
> | | | \ |
> | | | 100 / |
> | | | Ohm \ |___ to 1231C throttle
> | | | /
> - ---------------------------------
I don't think this would work, though the concept is feasible. The main
problem is the LM741. This is a very old low-performance opamp, which
won't work with only a 2.8v supply. Other problems are a lack of any
noise filtering (it would respond to even 1 microsecond glitches) and no
fuses.
If you want to do it this way, use an opamp and voltage reference
specifically built to work at 2.8v. The National LM10 comes to mind; it
has both the opamp and reference in one chip.
I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w carbon
film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act like a fuse if
anything goes wrong, and fail open.
> One particular question: the opto can handle 50mA max -- does
> the 1231C put more than 50mA through its throttle leads when
> there are zero ohms?
No, the Curtis controllers only run about 4ma max thru the potbox.
I'd make an effort to keep the power consumption of your voltage-sensing
circuit low. If it draws much current, it will run down the batteries
and destroy them!
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why so much more than the Lumina (0.30)? Or is it the Cd x Area that matters?
-------------- Original message --------------
> > What type of CD would you expect for a Corvette (C3s/'68-'82)?
>
> 0.350
>
>
> http://www.mayfco.com/chevy.htm
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Andre' Blanchard wrote:
ABS has independent control of each wheel or at least each front wheel
with the two rears grouped together. When regening hard on slippery
patches the differential could cause problems if one side was on a
slippery patch and the other side was not.
Very true. But in my case (not Prius') I didn't have an ABS
brakes in a stock car to begin with, so having *anything*
helping (like semi-ABS-behaving-regen) is better than nothing.
Secondly, I can turn off regen with a flip of a switch
if I want to when drive in such conditions to avoid free
spinning of just one front wheel. But then
I'm left with stock brakes, both front ones linked
to one common hydrolic master cylinder about the same
as having common regen on both front wheels. The only
difference in case of regen the front diff is not locked,
but I'm not sure if it is really for better or not.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
sorry that i am replying to an ancient message but I
am just catching up on two weeks of EVDL.
your free piston series hybrid sounds a lot like this
one :
www.freepistonpower.com
I don't know what these guys are up to recently, but
they were very enthusiastically peddling their wares a
few years ago at the SAE world expo in detroit.
~fortunat
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Our OT discussion of hybrid power reminded me of a
> posting I have at a site
> called bizinnovation.com - the fact that 2-stroke
> diesels don't work well in
> small sizes or without a scavenging exhaust pump
> might mean this is a no-show,
> but here it is:
>
> <<<<<
> Title:
>
> A more direct method of converting internal
> combustion into electricity
>
> Description:
>
> Utilizing a free-piston design, opposite ends with
> diesel fuel injection and
> 2-stroke ports.
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just received an email from Ford about the Ranger EVs with the following info
in a PDF. Unfortunatly I wasn't a lease holder so I guess this doesn't apply to
me.
Steve
Ford Motor Company invites you to read this information and, if you are
interested in purchasing
a pre-owned Electric Ranger and meet the eligibility requirements, to enter
the Electric Ranger Pre-Owned
Purchase Lottery.
Background: Pre-owned Electric Rangers will be refurbished by Blue Sky Motors
(BSM), an independent
and unaffiliated company, to such a level of operability and performance that
these vehicles will be fully
compliant with all applicable federal and state laws governing motor vehicle
operation.
Cost: Each vehicle will be sold directly by BSM for $6,000.00 (six thousand
dollars) per vehicle excluding
taxes and final transportation to customer?s location or a PCS charging station.
Eligibility Requirements: To enter, you must be a former Ford Electric Ranger
lease holder and supply
the vehicle identification number for verification. Maximum of one entry per
former Ford Electric Ranger
lease holder or company. Entries should be submitted on a standard size
postcard and include former
lease holder?s name, current address, telephone number and the vehicle
identification number from the
expired lease contract. This information should be mailed to Ford Motor Company
? Electric Ranger Lottery,
15050 Commerce Drive North, Dearborn, MI 48120. Entries will be verified for
accuracy and must be
postmarked no later than August 31, 2005.
Lottery Rules: Winners will be chosen in a random drawing from all entries. The
drawing will be held
September 23, 2005, and participants will be notified in writing as vehicles
become available. Vehicles
will be provided on an availability basis, ?as is?. Participants will have 15
days from notification to complete
the EV purchase. This lottery is set to expire December 31, 2006. For
additional EV Lottery information
please visit www.RangerEVLottery.com.
Legal Disclaimer and Advisory: Entering this lottery does not assure you a
vehicle. Odds of winning
will depend on the number of entries received and vehicle availability.
Applicants are strongly encouraged
to live within 100 miles of an approved Ford electric vehicle service center.
Ford will not be a party to the
contract of sale between BSM and winners of the lottery drawing. Vehicles will
be sold ?as-is?, with no
warranty from either Ford or BSM. Payment in full is expected at time of
purchase. Lottery winners must
obtain own financing if necessary.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bet their wishing they were driving EV's right about now!
http://www.expertclick.com/NewsReleaseWire/default.cfm?Action=ReleaseDetail&ID=9594
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Jul 20, 2005 at 05:36:04PM -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I just received an email from Ford about the Ranger EVs with the following
> info in a PDF. Unfortunatly I wasn't a lease holder so I guess this doesn't
> apply to me.
>
Did you notice that there were only 243 email addresses in that announcement?
Does that mean that these were the only people who expressed interest?
How many Rangers are left? Perhaps, with so few people on the list, there will
be enough for everybody?
Thanks!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi E_vette and All,
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Why so much more than the Lumina (0.30)? Or is it
Besides shape, intersection and parasitic drag, not
much ;-))
I just saw a Chevy APV and was impressed with low
frontal area, smooth shape with no extra
intersections, flush windows, probly a smooth bottom,
low wheel well drag it looks like. I'd bet with a
little work it could drop several more pounts too.
For those who don't know, anywhere two surfaces
meet like upper side to the lower body where there is
a 90 or so degree intersections and the Corvette has
more of them and the APV doesn't, causes air to slow
down compared to the car, speed up compared to the
land, and drag in those corners and when flowing over
outside corners so best to avoid both when ever
possible. So do mirrors, wheel well flares, ect.
The larger radius' in these areas the better if
you have to have them.
Except on the rear where you want a sharpe cut off
just after a gently curve starts bring the air back
towards the center behind the car allowing the air to
converge a ways behind it lessening drag.
If you don't, the curve becomes too much for the
air to follow it at around 17deg angle, it breaks
into oscolating vortexes that diverge into an outward
shaped cone, draging much air behind it, thus more
drag.
Air drag equals the air the vehicle moves,
accelerates. If it just parts it and returns t back to
where it started, little drag happens. If it pulls a
lot of air with it because of wrong shape, ect, higher
drag.
> the Cd x Area that matters?
Yes! The Corvette has slightly less frontal area
but more drag, CD of that area so in overall drag they
are about the same but you can carry much more in the
APV.
HTH's
Jerry Dycus
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > > What type of CD would you expect for a Corvette
> (C3s/'68-'82)?
> >
> > 0.350
> >
> >
> > http://www.mayfco.com/chevy.htm
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 2:58 PM -0700 on 7/20/05, Nick Austin wrote:
On Wed, Jul 20, 2005 at 05:36:04PM -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I just received an email from Ford about the Ranger EVs with the following
info in a PDF. Unfortunatly I wasn't a lease holder so I guess this doesn't
apply to me.
Did you notice that there were only 243 email addresses in that announcement?
Does that mean that these were the only people who expressed interest?
How many Rangers are left? Perhaps, with so few people on the list, there will
be enough for everybody?
Huh. I contacted Ford about convincing them not to crush the
RangerEVs, and that I'd be interested in getting one. I was not a
lessee, so I'm not particularly hopeful of ever getting one, but I
didn't get the email mentioned above.
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
-Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The older Prius has 38 off 7.2V 6.5Ahr NiMH blocks 288V, 274V total. Cut
& parallel & you have 137V 13Ahr. Get 7 more & you have 91Ahrs & 300kgs
mass. It might be of interest to get wrecked Prius batteries for
straight EVs with packs from 120V to 300V range.
If list members think this has merit I would like to import 7 old packs
which would require a paid volunteer to find same for me to import to
Australia. We don't have enough Prius here to get this number in a
reasonable time. The task would suit another person wanting to do the
same in the US most likely. The newer model uses 28 strings but could
still be used. New packs are out of the question due to cost.
Pl contact off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] after this has been
discussed.
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Jul 20, 2005 at 05:47:07PM -0500, Michael Hurley wrote:
> At 2:58 PM -0700 on 7/20/05, Nick Austin wrote:
>
> >On Wed, Jul 20, 2005 at 05:36:04PM -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >> I just received an email from Ford about the Ranger EVs with the
> >> following
> >> info in a PDF. Unfortunatly I wasn't a lease holder so I guess this
> >> doesn't
> >> apply to me.
> >>
> >
> >Did you notice that there were only 243 email addresses in that
> >announcement?
> >
> >Does that mean that these were the only people who expressed interest?
> >
> >How many Rangers are left? Perhaps, with so few people on the list, there
> >will
> >be enough for everybody?
>
> Huh. I contacted Ford about convincing them not to crush the
> RangerEVs, and that I'd be interested in getting one. I was not a
> lessee, so I'm not particularly hopeful of ever getting one, but I
> didn't get the email mentioned above.
Recall that in the promotion, they mentioned that any left over Rangers would
be sold through Blue Sky Motors.
Do you know how many RangerEV's are left?
Do you know how many people are on the list?
Did you give them your email address?
Perhaps they only sent this to people who emailed them?
I both emailed and called. I wonder how many people just called?
Thanks!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would recommend caution before going this route.
The problem is that figuring out a way to *charge* the batteries might
be more complicated than you think. NiMH is a lot harder than NiCD; the
voltage drop at end of charge is less, and if you overcharge them they
will be toast. Undercharge them and they will be toast. Try to trickle
charge them and once again, toast.
I am working hard on charging circuits for NiCD and NiMH. I have a Prius
pack, and while they do put out a lot of power, charging them is tricky.
If I charge at 3amps using my dv/dt logic they charge fine. Last night I
tried a 6.5ah charge (C) and the battery cells ballooned. Not good. They
didn't seem to gas, however if they were restricted they probably would
have. Need to figure out why and look at my temp and voltage probes.
On the other hand the logic did spot the saddle. However it's very
small, meaning you have to implement sensors every 12 cells or so (2
batteries). This is not going to be simple.
Chris
djsharpe wrote:
The older Prius has 38 off 7.2V 6.5Ahr NiMH blocks 288V, 274V total. Cut
& parallel & you have 137V 13Ahr. Get 7 more & you have 91Ahrs & 300kgs
mass. It might be of interest to get wrecked Prius batteries for
straight EVs with packs from 120V to 300V range.
If list members think this has merit I would like to import 7 old packs
which would require a paid volunteer to find same for me to import to
Australia. We don't have enough Prius here to get this number in a
reasonable time. The task would suit another person wanting to do the
same in the US most likely. The newer model uses 28 strings but could
still be used. New packs are out of the question due to cost.
Pl contact off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] after this has been
discussed.
David
--- End Message ---
