EV Digest 4625
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) article: Subaru =?windows-1252?Q?Parent=92s_New_Hybrid_Bat?=
=?windows-1252?Q?tery_Reported_to_Last_150=2C000_Miles?=
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Correct AGM finish charge (Was: Re: PFC-30)
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: 330V DC/DCs on eBay
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: PFC Ground and Pack Negative (was RE: Russco vs Zivan vs PF)
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: PFC Ground and Pack Negative (was RE: Russco vs Zivan vs PF)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: brakes not dragging
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: EVLN('plug in' hybrid) Some Discussion on rating PHEVs
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: brakes not dragging
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 330V DC/DCs on eBay
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Power Steering MR2
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: E-Vision
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Zilla Backorders
by "Ray Brooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: 330V DC/DCs on eBay
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Batteries
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Where can I get a 48 to 12v dc/dc to power my Emeter/Relays?
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Alltrax Controller - protocol achieved
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) "2nd Generation High Current Lithium Batteries"
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Battery Question / Pricing
by Osmo Sarin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hybrid batteries can be EV batteries as well:
*http://tinyurl.com/c38or*
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> I have your dream charger on my bench *now*.
Would that be one of your BRUSA's? Or are you prototyping a charger too?
What else are you working on...?
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Has anyone seen this particular module before? A search on vicr.com for
"VI-910116" yields no hits. The ad says 330V, the module says 325. I
wonder what the full allowed input voltage range is?
--chris
Claudio Natoli said:
>
> A nice DC/DC for those with higher voltage packs?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7540996065
>
>
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----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Stotts<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: PFC Ground and Pack Negative (was RE: Russco vs Zivan vs PF)
Roland Wiench wrote:
>Place those interlocking 1 inch thick matting around the EV, or do
the entire >garage floor. There is no conductance to ground now.
I wonder if this floor coating is conductive?
http://ucoatit.com/<http://ucoatit.com/>
http://www.musclegloss.com/<http://www.musclegloss.com/>
I have no ideal. You can can this type of product from Home Depot.
Sam's Club sells these interlocking rubber floor matting which are 2 to 3
foot square and range in thickness from 1/4 inch thick to 1 inch thick in all
different colors with smooth surface to a texture surface. Very easy to stand
on when I take about 4 hours to check and service all my batteries.
Roland
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> Roland Wiench wrote:
>
> >Place those interlocking 1 inch thick matting around the EV, or do
> the entire >garage floor. There is no conductance to ground now.
But who is going to carry those matts around with them to place aroung
the EV anytime they charge in public? One of the major attractions of a
PFC charger is its (relatively) small size, PFC, and adjsutable current
limit such that it can be mounted onboard for opportunity charging and
take advantage of public outlets with unknown breaker/circuit capacity
available for your charging needs.
If one is only ever going to charge in their own garage, it makes little
sense to spend the extra bucks on a compact PFC charger instead of
getting hold of a big floor-mounted transformer-based charger and
feeding it from a 240VAC outlet. No more isolation issue.
Cheers,
Roger.
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I know we've talked about this at length in the past. Some new observations:
Picked up 2001 Ranger recently for better temporary commuting economy.
Took the wheels off it to inspect it and check the brake pads/shoes.
Rear drum brakes are easily manually adjusted so they don't drag.
Front disc brakes are another story.
I grabbed the front wheel studs and gave the rotor a hard spin and it
freewheeled! I could not believe it! I've worked on a lot of cars
and trucks over the years, and this was a first(all the others dragged
to a stop. Just slight drag though, but enough). There was no
audible or noticeable pad drag, so it can be done!
2 things came to mind: Sealed wheel bearings. All the vehicles I've
worked on in the past had bearings that had to be manually packed with
grease, and the bearing preload was manually set. I imagine the wheel
grease had quite a bit of drag compared to whatever and how much of it
is in the sealed wheel bearings.
The second thing, and this is a big one. Those freakin caliper
pins/bolts! The ones the caliper slides(or is "supposed" too!) on.
The auto parts store sells those brand new for not much. The question
is: Install them dry or lube them? Seems like that would make them
"stick"?
The way the hydraulic brakes are, what is there to manually pull the
caliper off the rotor? Is it a one way or two way hydraulic system?
The drums have spring returns or assist.. The only thing that seems
to bump the pad off the rotor surface is when a rotor is ever so
slightly warped on older vehicles I've worked on..
The other big problem is those rubber end boots on the pins. I think
they create suction on the pin. With the caliper off, take one of
those bolts and stick in the boot and remove it. Doesn't come out so
easily..
I've been wondering if these would be a better choice to replace those
rubber bushings?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sscs.asp
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Saft STM5-100 are rated by Saft for 200A CONSTANT and 500A (10sec)
in 120V French electric car, battery amp allowed is 200A max (full
throttle,
red part of "eco-meter")
I controled max bat amp with OEM diag console while driving.
any idea about the price / weight and shipping to florida. I'd need about 50
of them for my lawn mower project . .
steve clunn
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--- Begin Message ---
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/priusplus/message/488
From: "Robert Strattan"
Date: Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:25 pm
Subject: Re: More On Measuring And Stating The Mileage of PHEVs (Long)
rdstrattan
I don't have the credentials of Dr. Frank, but I do have somewhat
similar background and experience so I thought I would add my $/50 to
this thread. I too have been troubled by the somewhat missleading MPG
values recently appearing for PHEVs. I realize how these occur,
particularly when dealing with the press and lay public, and agree
with most of the comments in the replies - if someone is intelligent
enough to question the results they are probably also capable of
finding and understanding the real facts.
My background is that I am a retired Electrical Engineering professor
that has 14 years of sdvising the HEV student projects at the
University of Tulsa (www.hev.utulsa.edu) where we have built 3 PHEVs
over the years and regularly compete in the Tour de Sol and other
contests (most recently the ChallengeX, along with Dr. Frank and the
UC Davis team). I have entered my personal Classic Prius in the Tour
de Sol 5 times and in the companion Monte Carlo Rallye this year. I
competed against the EDrive Prius PHEV this year.
To summarize the relative performance of my MY 2001 stock Prius (#70)
and the Edrive Prius PHEV (#36) this year (see
www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/ and Results are In link):
In the Tour de Sol Championship fuel efficiency event, the course was
a round trip drive from Saratoga Springs NY to Cooperstown and back of
196.8 miles. My corrected fuel used based on the stock Prius
consumption instrument was 3.62 gallons for 54.4 MPG. The #36 PHEV
results show a useage of 2.65 gallons with no mention of electrical
useage for 74.2 MPG. The EDrive team said the indicated MPG was well
over 100 MPG in the early parts of the drive, but dropped as the miles
rolled on, as would be expected. If one assumes that they used the 9
kWh battery capacity in this drive, and make the miles per gallon
equivalent correction (discussed below), the adjusted fuel efficiency
would be 66.8 MPGe, or if convesion efficiency is included, 57.8 MPGe,
confirming that there is no free lunch. I have no explaination of why
the Tour de Sol officials did not charge the #36 PHEV for their
electrical use, other than the TdS was being user friendly and
pursuing one of its missions of demonstrating the potential of
advanced technology to the public.
In the Monte Carlo Rallye, I took the long distance approach and ran 3
legs between official fueling stations between near Tulsa OK and
Saratoga Springs NY covering 1,444 miles on 25.64 gallons for 56.32
MPG. The #36 PHEV ran a short local NY loop of 149.1 miles on 1.46
gallons for 102.13 MPG as noted in the published results for the #36
"gas only" entry. There is another #36 "inc Elec" results entry
showing 2.21 gallons used and a 84.86 MPG value, with a note 7 that
"Car used external Grid power - adjusted mpg down for Equiv. Amt of
Fuel @ 33 KWH/G". Note that 149.1 miles divided by 2.21 gallons equal
67.47 MPG, not 84.86. The 84.86 MPGe value is consitent with adding
in about 9 kWh electrical energy with no correction for conversion
efficiency, which is consistent with the Tour de Sol practice. The
2.21 gallons equivalent is consistent with including a conversion
efficiency factor. Again, I can not explain the rationale of the
results, other that to report them and comment that there was an
attempt to account for the electrical energy use in the Monte Carlo
Rallye results.
Now for some comments on the miles per gallon equivalent (MPGe)
measurement procedure. The section from the orginal post included
below does a good job of explaining the principal and process. The
Tour de Sol uses this procedure for equivalency among a wide range of
fuels, including electricity. Nearly all prototype hybrids at the TdS
are PHEVs, so they have had to deal with this for many years. You may
read the details in the TdS rules available from their web site. This
method is also used by Department of Energy sponsored collegiate
competitons, and fits into their grander scheme of Well to Wheels
(W2W) energy use analysis. The TdS uses the direct conversion of
electricity at the charger input at 3,412 BTU/kWh and 115,500
BTU/gallon of conventional gasoline. Everything is converted to
gallons of conventional gasoline. They do not take into account the
conversion efficiency of generating and transporting the electricity.
The reasons for this could fill another discussion thread and need
not enter this discussion, other than to say a generally accepted
value of 40% is often quoted for typical USA mixes of electrical
generating plants. This conversion efficiency correction process is
included in the DoE W2W cycle analysis. To include the conversion
efficiency, divide the electrical gallon equivalent calculated as
below by the conversion efficiency before adding it to the gallons of
gas used. This then gves a more accurate indication of the fuel
economy related back to raw energy used from fossil fuel sources.
The orginator of this thread is right-on with his approach below, and
the MPGe based on gasoline is the commonly used unit in the US
scientific and engineering community. Of course, our more worldly
colleagues use the inverse metric measure of consumption rate in
liters per 100 kilometers.
Robert D. Strattan, Ph.D., P.E.
Tulsa, OK
#70 S&S AutoSport Prius
> 1. Working out Miles-Per-GGE:
>
> Using my own approximation of 1 gallon of gasoline equals about
> 106,000 BTU: An approximation is NECESSARY (not optional) because a
> gallon of gasoline can go below 100,000 BTU and up well above
110,000
> BTU I think depending on a variety of mixtures and factors...
>
> When I looked into this a few years ago, developing my own
> approximation was additionally necessary because I did not see any
> approximation conventions consistently emerging from the folks who
> might often delve into this, such as at the DOE)
>
> ... and using that 9 kWh is equal to 9*3412 BTU ....(3412 BTU in a
> kWh).... we have that the 9 grid kWh expended is roughly 30,708 BTU,
> or 30,708/106,000 = about .2897 gge.
>
> Now, the news report gave us "mileage" per gallon of gasoline, but
it
> gave us total energy expended for the electrical side.... an
> inconsistency which causes us to have to do an extra calculation.
If
> the mileage was 102 mpg, then the gasoline expended over 150 miles
was
> 1.4706 gallons. We know that about .2897 gge equivalent of
electrical
> energy was expended, for a total energy expended of 1.4706 + .2897 =
> 1.7603 gge. Thus, miles per gge was 150/1.7603 =
>
> MPGGE = (approximately) = 85.21
> Maybe Dr. Frank or some other long-time experienced PHEV researcher
> has given some thought to this issue. If we are inventing a sort of
> new class of more-complex vehicle, we may also have to invent a new
> (and credible) standard for how to state mileage for such.
bruce parmenter wrote:
> EVLN('plug in' hybrid conversions commercialised by UK company)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
> http://www.csrwire.com/article.cgi/4030.html
> Press release from: Amberjac Projects Limited
> European Plug in Prius Launched
>
> Greener more fuel efficient 'plug in' hybrid conversions to be
> commercialised in Europe by UK company in partnership with
> EnergyCS and Edrive Systems
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Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The second thing, and this is a big one. Those freakin
> caliper pins/bolts! The ones the caliper slides(or is
> "supposed" too!) on.
>
> The auto parts store sells those brand new for not much. The question
> is: Install them dry or lube them? Seems like that would
> make them "stick"?
I use "never-seez" (never sieze)
<http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa=categories&divisionId=6&;
categoryId=30> on brake components such as this and brake adjusters for
drum brakes.
> The way the hydraulic brakes are, what is there to manually
> pull the caliper off the rotor? Is it a one way or two way
> hydraulic system?
It is a one way system. The spring that returns the piston to its rest
position is the square o-ring that seals it to the caliper body. The
piston only moves a tiny bit to apply the brake pads to the rotor, and
when the hydraulic pressure is removed from behind it the square o-ring
seal pulls the piston back away from the rotor surface.
> The other big problem is those rubber end boots on the pins.
> I think they create suction on the pin. With the caliper
> off, take one of those bolts and stick in the boot and remove
> it. Doesn't come out so easily..
It isn't supposed to. The pins don't move; they are solidly attached to
the caliper mount. It is the caliper that (is supposed to) slides back
and forth on the pin. The rubber boots are there to seal the pin to the
caliper so that crud can't enter the clearance between the two and
prevent the caliper from sliding. The boots also help to keep any lube
you do put on the pins from either washing off or getting clogged with
crud. The rubber boots often engage in a groove on the pin and in a
groove on the caliper, though sometimes there is only a groove to secure
them to the caliper. In any event, the boots are accordian-like so that
movement of the caliper relative to the pin is accomodated by flexing of
the boot without it needing to slide on the pin.
> I've been wondering if these would be a better choice to
> replace those rubber bushings?
>
> http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sscs.asp
Unless your brakes are quite different from any I've seen, the rubber
dust seals are not bushings. The product you refer to appears indended
to address the perceived problem of the caliper being able to move so
freely on the pins that it might get cocked slightly relative to the
rotor. (Don't worry, we're talking about a very minor misalignment and
one that would correct itself immediately when the brake pads apply any
pressure to the rotor.) At any rate, these bushings would reduce the
ease with which the caliper slides simply because they must reduce the
free play between the caliper and pin and therefore would be more prone
to the effects of dirt accumulation. May not be a problem for racing
where the environment may be cleaner than on-road and/or you can afford
to tear things down and clean/lube them after every few hours of
operation.
This is really the trick with your stock disk brakes: keep them clean
and free of rust and they should exhibit minimal drag. Rust or dirt
accumulation around the piston can interfere with it retracting
properly. Rust or dirt accumulation on the pins cann prevent the
caliper from floating properly, with the result that the pad opposite
the piston may drag even if the piston retracts properly.
Cheers,
Roger.
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The specified limits (200 amps long term; 500 amps for 10 seconds) are
absolutely vital for STM5-xxxMR/E modules produced before 2000. If you
use these earlier production modules, I would strongly recommend setting
your controller's battery current limit no higher than 250 amps; 200 or 220
would be even better.
By all accounts later production MR/E modules, and the earlier non-MR/E
modules (the ones with individual cell caps), are appreciably more capable of
handling higher currents for longer periods.
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Christopher wrote:
> Has anyone seen this particular module before?
The ad mentions "Pilot Production" and the device says "Patents
Pending". If it's any good, hopefully it will be a standard item on
the market.. Might end up being the DC/DC I use.
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Are you saying $300 looks like the end cost of the product or is that
just the front end cost?
Danny
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
There are some details in the Ah manual. The front end
conversion PCB is really not a product in itself, it's a
part of the complete Ah counter. By itself it is
about $300 - my guess.
Victor
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Paul G. wrote:
>
> On Aug 24, 2005, at 10:41 AM, Neon John wrote:
>
> > LCDs were and are totally unsuited for those conditions. That's why
> > the auto companies have avoided LCD technology. It just can't take
> > the cold or the heat.
>
> I'm curious. One place that a number of cars have adopted the LCD is
> the the odometer display. How are they keeping that thing readable? It
> seems like it could get WAY to hot packaged behind clear plastic in the
> generally dark color speedometer head.
LCDs come in many styles and technologies. The oldest and simplest ones
are not multiplexed; they have a backplane, and a pin for every segment.
For example a 6-digit 7-segment nonmultiplexed LCD has (6x7)+1=43 pins.
This type has the highest contrast and widest operating temperature
range, and lowest power consumption, and is the simplest to drive. They
are used for clocks, station indicators on radios, speedometers, etc. --
anywhere the number of pins is manageable.
Past about 8 digits, they start multiplexing LCD displays to get the pin
count down. 1/2 multiplexing has two backplanes and cuts the pin count
in half; 1/3 multiplexing (triplexing) has 3 backplanes to cut the count
by 1/3, and so on. But multiplexing LCDs is much trickier than LEDs; the
drive circuitry gets a lot more complex as the multiplexing gets deeper.
Also, the deeper you multiplex, the worse the viewing angle, contrast,
and temperature sensitivity get.
Around 1/16 or 1/32, the contrast and viewing angle are so bad that the
displays are barely readable, and only used for cheap stuff and toys. So
they switch to an active matrix type LCD. This type integrates a
separate driver transistor for every pixel into the display. This is
what you'll find on any modern laptop. This gets back some of the
viewing angle and contrast, but adds significantly to the cost and power
consumption.
This just scratches the surface of LCDs. There are now perhaps a hundred
variants in production, each with its own strengths, weaknesses, and
peculiarities.
Frankly, I think the VFD (vacuum fluorescent display) is the best choice
for automotive applications from a readability point of view. This is
the bright blue-green glowing display you see in many car dashboards
(including our Prius). However, it's based on vacuum tube technology --
I have a feeling Victor would never stand for it! :-)
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_PowerSteering.html
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_PowerSteering_Install.html
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cwarman
Sent: August 24, 2005 6:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Power Steering MR2
Off hand,
Does anyone have one of the Toyota MR2 Electric pumps being used for
powersteering ? Can you give the Year of the cars this was on and if
possible a part number if you know it ?
Cwarman
>
>
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Are you building things with color transflectives or just buying
products with them?
I've long wanted to get ahold of some color transflectives, but never
found much for parts sources, the price was quite high, and it still
needed an external controller.
Danny
Ken Trough wrote:
I made the switch to LCD color transflective screens some time ago for
my outdoor LCD reading needs. Transflective displays were dark and
muted until about three years ago. Now they are bright and vibrant.
This tech is fantastic. Bright as a regular LCD at night, and the
pixels reflect sunlight providing a vivid, eye popping display in the
day time.
Great for outdoor instrumentation displays, cell phone/blackberry
screens, and tablet/notebook computer screens. I'm using them for all
these purposes and couldn't be happier.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
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Yep, and there's no getting around it. LCDs work by polarizing the
light and thus can only be viewed in one orientation when viewed through
polarized sunglasses. And if I recall correctly some displays are
polarized so they will be viewable in their normal horizontal position
and others aren't. Sunglasses are always polarized the same way.
Danny
Jim Coate wrote:
I've had problems with LCD displays when wearing (polarized?) sun
glasses... kinda fun to turn my head to one side and watch the display
fade in/out but not real practical....
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I just didn't describe the torque converters front locator pilot very well.
It sounds like you have figured out that the TC will need to be supported at
the front . One thing I don't like about the tc or any flywheel for that
matter is that it sucks up amps when accelerating.
Like your locale, in the SE ac is a must . I thought about having a button
to activate the ac compressor clutch and be able to run the comp when
decelerating, down hills or at stops.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zilla Backorders
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Actually the pilot shaft you are seeing turns in rotation with the hub, so
it is only a "guide" hole in the hub for alignment. In a clutch vehicle
apparently they put a bushing because the flywheel and clutch disk are
separated during shifts.
>
> My transaxle uses 4 solenoids, one of which controls the locking torque
converter. There are various shift points programmed into the computer
system that can be changed for winter driving, sport mode, etc. Most of the
time I plan to force a lockup on the TC and run in 1 or 2, but never in full
automatic mode since it will attempt to shift around 2000 rpms. I have been
driving the wife's car (chevy malibu) and determining approximate speeds vs
rpms and figure that one is similar. Some of my best friends are former
service writers and techs that have worked with major dealerships and tell
me the modern automatics are a lot better. I think most people are afraid
of them for the reasons you mention, like the electronic controls. Believe
me I had plenty of fears of my own entering the project. Now I am certain
it will eventually work out...fear of unknown..always scary.
>
> I did consider for a while having the TC cut apart and the turbines
welded, but felt it would cause a lot of possible problems with balance,
sealing, etc. and decided against that option.
>
> Yes, you could power the hydraulics with some sort of electric pump
(another drain on the batteries), but I plan to idle mine at 300 rpms to run
the PS and Air Conditioning anyway, so the pressure will always be there.
Nor do I want any jerking when it goes into gear. My particular needs for
30 or 35 miles 156v battery pack, Zilla controller and 2900 lb car should be
met, and the small loss out of a very efficiently designed automatic should
be minimal. If I need different shift points, I will use the factory spec
table I have for the solenoids and force one or more to shift when I need
it. Much better than an old vacuum operated system.
>
> I also believe my cruise control will still work, since I plan to mount
the pot box onto a rack with the old throttle body, complete with it's
return springs, throttle position sensor and hookup for the cruise control
cable. I should lose very little of the "nice" stuff the car has in the
conversion.
>
> The not so nice stuff like oil, gas, polution, and the ICE itself, will of
course be gone for good :-)
>
> Mark Ward
> St. Charles, MO
> 95 Saab 900SE
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
> >
> > From: "Ray Brooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: 2005/08/23 Tue AM 09:06:38 EST
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Subject: Re: Zilla Backorders
> >
> > Mark,
> > I checked out your 'saab blog' and had some comments.
> > The torque converter does require a pilot bushing to support it at the
> > front. That is what the long snout does.
> >
> > I have been contemplating auto trans use for EV's. Unfortunately I know
just
> > enough about automatic trans to be dangerous [ a little bit of knowledge
is
> > a dangerous thing :) ]. My concept is to eliminate the torque
converter
> > completely and create a drive spindle that solidly hooks the motor shaft
to
> > the transmission's oil pump and input shaft.. What would be required is
a
> > separate, electric hyd pump [ your PS pump?? ] to provide pressure to
the
> > transmission while the motor is not running. This electric pump could be
> > shut off when the internal trans pump gets up to speed.
> >
> > To drive the car you would select the gear you want with the shifter.
The
> > clutch pack or band for this gear would be applied via the pressure
supplied
> > by the electric pump. Once you hit the throttle and move away the
internal
> > pump would then take over the hyd chore and the electric would shut off.
> > The trans would then shift up and down as needed until you came to a
stop
> > and then the electric pump would take over again.
> >
> > The question is how much current does the internal pump draw and how
much
> > more internal drag does the auto trans have vs. a manual tranny? In
high
> > gear [ not OD ] the auto is direct drive similar to the manual so there
> > would not be much difference there.
> >
> > A lot of older automatics used a vacuum modulator to control part
throttle
> > shifting and a kickdown linkage for 'passing gear'. Chry Torqueflites
used
> > the kickdown linkage but no vacuum modulator. It is also possible to
modify
> > the valve body in an auto trans to make it fully manual as is done in
drag
> > racing. I just don't know if it is possible to make this conversion
without
> > also have the trans shift so hard that it would make your neck hurt.
> >
> > A computer controlled tranny is totally out of my realm of experience as
to
> > whether it would be possible to make it shift properly in an ev. You
would
> > probably need a throttle position sensor, tach sensor and vehicle speed
> > sensor at the very least .
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 12:27 AM
> > Subject: Re: Zilla Backorders
> >
> >
> > > That scares me a bit since the Zilla 1K is the controller I need!
> > >
> > > Hope the problem is resolved soon! Might have to look at a Zapi
instead.
> > >
> > > Mark Ward
> > > St. Charles, MO
> > > 95 Saab 900SE
> > > www.saabrina.blogspot.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 8:06 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Zilla Backorders
> > >
> > >
> > > >I think Otmar has been getting a lot of orders lately. I waited about
2
> > > >months in I think May when his first batch of machined pieces came
back
> > > >from the fabrication shop not to specs and then he had to wait for
them
> > > >again to fix the problem and I think he found a different place to
make
> > > >them. All in all I think it will be worth the wait (my EV's going to
run
> > > >very soon). Above anything I know the controller itself is great, but
the
> > > >Hair Ball is what is the real deal maker because it gives you such a
nice
> > > >little interface to hook everything to.
> > > >
> > > > And FYI, I think Otmar is like me and replies to emails a lot
quicker
> > than
> > > > phone messages (note his quick reply here). He always answers emails
> > > > generally within hours.
> > > >
> > > > Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > Is it true there is like a 2 months backorder or wait time for the
1k
> > > > Zilla Controllers ? WOW! There has to be somewhere that has them in
> > > > stock now...
> > > >
> > > > Evsource hasnt returned my calls at all, has anyone dealt with these
> > guys
> > > > ?
> > > >
> > > > CWarman
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Later,
> > > > Ricky
> > > > 02 Red Insight #559
> > > > 92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
> > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Well I did throw it into the freeze to see what it would do. I did
certainly see it slow down, but its response time was still only in the
millisecond range. It was noticible, that's all. That was at around 0F
I guess.
I must confess I'm at a loss for what you're saying in regards to
segments and multiplexing. I've used controller-based monochrome
graphical LCDs. Those are fairly cheap and sound appropriate for an EV
display. They don't have big issues with viewing angle and have fairly
good contrast.
Danny
Lee Hart wrote:
Then you don't live in a place with "real" winters and haven't tried a
multiplexed LCD at sub-freezing temperatures. Even if you get the
temperature compensation perfect so the viewing angle and contrast don't
change, they get s-l-o-w.
The other issue I have with LCDs is that they cost by the square inch;
not by number of segments. So there is a tendency to use the smallest
possible size and largest possible number of segments. But large numbers
of segments require deep multiplexing. This causes poor contrast and
narrow viewing angles. So we get lots of gadgets with wonderfully high
resolution graphic displays that have extremely narrow viewing angles
and poor contrast.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, sounds like alot of great features! I was going to make my own
similar device, but sounds like buying yours will be the way to go.
Regarding email, you answered your own comment, emailing your phone
(or pager, or wireless palm pilot) is a good way to alert someone.
Also, I plan to charge at work. My cell phone doesn't work inside my
building, so an email to my desktop computer would let me know even
faster, in that case, than emailing my cell phone.
The other benefit is email is easy to multicast -- emails could go to
both my wife and myself, for example.
--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> David Dymaxion wrote:
> ...
> > Email alert sent to you if charging failure
>
> Who's to check the email before driving? You must be jocking?
>
> Well, BMS can call your cell phone (via GSM modem) to report the
> status.
> As well you can call your car, inquire SOC, remotely plug/unplug it
> (I should say turn the charger on/off, of course physically it must
> be
> plugged in) or whatever you need.
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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--- Begin Message ---
From: "Ryan Stotts" > The ad mentions "Pilot Production" and the device says
"Patents
Pending". If it's any good, hopefully it will be a standard item on
the market.. Might end up being the DC/DC I use.
I saw some 100 to 300v supplys at http://www.powerstream.com/ they say
output 13.5 v 60to 300 watts .
steve clunn
A solar panel installer was up on a roof, when out of the sky a bolt of
lightning strikes the roof, blowing him off the roof, across the street, and
through the neighbor's picture window. He gets off the floor, turns to the
startled family and says "that's the one thing I hate about this job."
----- Original Message -----
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Got my Zilla (1k HV) a couple days ago, got my batteries today (30 T-125's)
Moving right along.... gonna be grinning soon.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try http://www.eta-usa.com/pdffiles/dcdc/oc1-sc2448.pdf.
They are specified to run on 20.4 to 56 Volts and put out 1.3 Amps.
The national distributor is Mouser Electronics (http://www.mouser.com/ETA/)
Cost is $14.05 to $17.47 depending on quantity.
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&Ne=3&terms=oc1-12&Ntt=*oc112*&Ns=SField&N=61800000&crc=true
These are non-isolated wide input range converters and should work fine with
your 48 volt system as long as your charger does not go over 56 volts.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 6:44 AM
Subject: Where can I get a 48 to 12v dc/dc to power my Emeter/Relays?
> I pulled the 12v lead acid battery off my tractor because flooded nicads
and flooded lead don't mix*.
> I basically tapped 12 volts of the pack to run my emeter and my on off
switches. Since I charge each block individually this isn't much of a
problem and I unplug my emeter after the run and charge so it doesn't drain
down. I have tried online in vain to find all those 48v to 12v converters
surplus but can't find any below 100$ does anyone know where I could find
one? I need one for the tractor. My EV Motorcycle I may buy one with high
output because it needs it for the lights but the tractor just needs to run
the two small relay coils and the emeter for 2 hours a week.
> Thanks,
> *At least according to my flooded nicad manuals. They say that the lead
acid fumes can destroy the nicad batteries.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi there,
I just got a spec sheet from Alltrax on the protocol or memory addresses.
Here it is.
Cheers
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No. I was stating that a cruise control sender can be used as a source for
an odometer type recorder.
Ryan Stotts posted a link to a transducer description yesterday. It was
http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/616A.pdf
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
> Joe Smalley wrote:
> ...
> > 5) Cruise control senders put out a frequency proportional to the speed
> > typically four cycles per revolution. Voltage rises with frequency.
>
> I don't understand - are you asking for EVision to provide signal
> for cruise control[ling drive system], or you're talking about
> external existong sensors putting out freq signal EVision can use?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That is why I was mentioning an optocoupler output on the PWM. It can be
grounded or held high depending on the connection to the outside world. If
the optocoupler is in a socket, it can be changed if something blows it up
or a user needs a higher current part.
I think a Teledyne C60-30 fits in the same socket as lower power parts but
is capable of sinking or sourcing 1 amp from 200 volts.
http://www.teledynerelays.com/selectionmatrix.asp
Put the cheap parts in at the factory and have it field upgradable to the
more robust parts.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
> Will have to think about this one, may be I'll make it "bi-directional",
> it will cost extra dual high side driver chip. Currently EVision PWMs to
> ground with low side switches.
>
> I think it is simpler to invert my output externally.
> I'll make a note of your good observation, thanks!
>
> Paul G. wrote:
> > Victor,
> >
> > One additional thought came to my mind. You mentioned the ability to run
> > 1 or 2 auto gauges. If you do that can you set it up so that the user
> > can choose between regulating 12 volt positive or 12 volt grounding?
> > Most auto gas gauges are looking for ground, but as soon as 1 way is set
> > in stone someone will need to supply power instead.
> >
> > Paul "neon" Gooch
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone noticed these before?
http://www.powerstream.com/LLL.htm
Prices listed too..
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I´ve been waiting for some comments on this one - are they too good to
be true? Thanks!
Osmo Sarin
24.8.2005 kello 17:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:
I looked at these http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm and
they almost sound to good to be true ,
--- End Message ---
