EV Digest 4626
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 48 to 12v dc/dc
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Battery Question / Pricing. Now long range EV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Battery Question / Pricing. Now long range EV
by Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) not powered power steering
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Battery Question / Pricing. Now long range EV
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: PFC Ground and Pack Negative (was RE: Russco vs Zivan vs PF)
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Battery Question / Pricing. Now long range EV
by Osmo Sarin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Batteries
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Alltrax Controller - protocol achieved
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 330V DC/DCs on eBay
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) increasing range
by Brian Staffanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: (Electric) Power Steering
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: increasing range
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Zilla/Warp 9
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: e-meter DC/DC - underpowered?
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: increasing range
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Russco vs Zivan vs PFC
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Netgain Warp Dimensions
by Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
by "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: (Electric) Power Steering
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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i have not seen this message passing so here it is again:
look at goldenopportunities on Ebay
http://stores.ebay.fr/Electronics-From-Golden-O
which sell sometimes astrosyn BXB75 (75W 48 to 12V) for 10$
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 2:04 AM
Subject: 48 to 12v dc/dc
> > I have tried online in vain to find all those 48v to 12v converters
> > surplus but can't find any below 100$ does anyone know where I could
> > find one?
>
> I too am looking for some DC/DC converters. My 12v load needs are small
> (5 amps would do it). I'm more looking for a smaller physical size than
> the lowest price. I need a 48v to 12v DC/DC and a 72v to 12v DC/DC. I've
> found some at the usual souces. Any tips which units are the
> smaller/smallest ones? Housing is not important. I can put it in a box.
> Thx!
>
> -Ken Trough
> Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
> http://visforvoltage.com
> AIM - ktrough
> FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
>
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--- Begin Message ---
200 ah pack will weigh under 350 pounds. Real nice in a motorcycle. Work
in a larger EV too. YOu'd need to double that to get 1200 amps though But
you would have a 400 ah pack, 240vdc at under 700 pounds. What kind of
range would that give a Blue Meanie style car?LR............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Osmo Sarin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Question / Pricing
I´ve been waiting for some comments on this one - are they too good to be
true? Thanks!
Osmo Sarin
24.8.2005 kello 17:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:
I looked at these http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm and they
almost sound to good to be true ,
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Hi Micheala,
> Hello Evan and everybody:
>
> I currently have 22 x T-125 in my Nissan Truck. The range at 60 Mph is
> about 35 Miles, 0-60 in about 20-30 seconds. That is about 17 Kw of stored
> energy.
Again, please check your units - you probably mean 17kWh. And this is
taking you about 35 miles at most?
> Evan wrote:
>
> > That's about 22 x 100MREs. With a current limit of 180A, you will
> > have more like 22kW of power, and around 15kWh of stored energy.
> > With only 22kW in a heavy truck, the acceleration will be pretty poor
> > and keeping up with 55mph traffic would be "flat out". Also the range
> > won't be very impressive.
>
> Well .. the truck is not 'that' heavy. And I would save about 1/2 the
> weight of batteries though. Compared to Lead Acid that is. A saving of
> about 450 Kg.
But at the moment, you have, what, a 400A peak controller and a 132V
pack? So, you have perhaps as much as 44kW for a short time - twice
as much. You would need to half the weight of the whole truck to make
up the difference!
For another comparison, my van weighs 1450kg and has 27 x 100MRE
batteries (~27kW). The accelleration is "just adequate" - some would
consider it quite underpowered. How much will your S-10 weigh with
just 22 of the same batteries?
Going back to range, I think you are asking how far the smaller,
lighter Saft pack will carry you, compared to your current lead-acid
pack (in a similar truck). It's hard to say for sure without knowing
every detail, but I would guess that the 22 100MRE modules will go
slightly less far than your current 22 T-125s.
The reason is that weight doesn't tend to have a very big impact on
range, unless you are constantly driving up hills. That said, the
Nicads will give a more consistant range, less affected by
temperature.
> > I would recommend more batteries (meaning a higher system voltage), or
> > use the higher capacity 140 or 180AH modules.
>
> The bigger modules are aircooled? How would I be able to keep temperatures
> in check with just air flow? Big (huge) fans? A/c ?
The 140AH modules are available as water cooled too. The 180 modules,
I believe are air cooled only, so yes, you would have to pay careful
attention to (fan) cooling and temperature monitoring.
> I am planning to invest as much as I would want to pay for a new truck,
> including complete restoration of the donor vehicle to an almost 'as new'
> condition. About maybe US$ 20,000 to 25,000
>
> That is the reason I want to include a nice battery pack that lasts as
> long as the truck. Even if it increases the budget a bit more.
Definitely a good plan! And, I hope you arrive at a solution that has
"good" performance and range.
Regards
Evan
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--- Begin Message ---
Their pricing is on their website, as well:
http://www.everspring.net/txt/product-battery-pricing.htm
-Sam
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
200 ah pack will weigh under 350 pounds. Real nice in a motorcycle.
Work in a larger EV too. YOu'd need to double that to get 1200 amps
though But you would have a 400 ah pack, 240vdc at under 700 pounds.
What kind of range would that give a Blue Meanie style car?LR............
----- Original Message ----- From: "Osmo Sarin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Question / Pricing
I´ve been waiting for some comments on this one - are they too good
to be true? Thanks!
Osmo Sarin
24.8.2005 kello 17:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:
I looked at these http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm and
they almost sound to good to be true ,
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For those who don't want to swap out the steering gearbox, I purposely
put in a power steering gearbox to get a faster ratio for autocrossing,
It fit in the truck and the class rules :-)
I filled it less than 1/2 full with power steering fluid to keep it
lubed up and put 2 hose barbs and a loop of hose from the input to the
output to keep things clean and prevent any pressure build up from
turning the wheel. I didn't put hose clamps on it at all so if there was
too much pressure build up it would pop off.
It is a bear to turn at low speeds but this works just fine. It turns a
lot easier than a intact hydraulic system when the pump has gone off.
This was on a gearbox, not a hydraulicly assisted rack, but I don't
think that will matter.
Also on the eletric power steering, I will be looking into the american
made units instead of the honda ones because the ones on the saturn and
such are eletric assist, mount between the column and the rack and are
self contained, no connection to the ecm. It uses a built in torque
sensor to memic the rotary valve.
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Hi Lawrence and All,
These are just relabeled Thunder Sky that Victor and Jukka sell
and they seem to have better prices so why would one want to buy from Hong
Kong? Much better to buy from our local EV'ers especially with their better
prices in quanity. Also Everspring is quoting higher power outputs than they
put out in real life it seems.
They would be fantastic in a long range aero MC with it's lower
specific power requirements. Or used as Doug does with a AGM pack to handle the
larger amp peaks in heavier EV's.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
200 ah pack will weigh under 350 pounds. Real nice in a motorcycle. Work
in a larger EV too. YOu'd need to double that to get 1200 amps though But
you would have a 400 ah pack, 240vdc at under 700 pounds. What kind of
range would that give a Blue Meanie style car?LR............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Osmo Sarin"
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Question / Pricing
> I´ve been waiting for some comments on this one - are they too good to be
> true? Thanks!
>
> Osmo Sarin
>
> 24.8.2005 kello 17:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:
>
>> I looked at these <http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm> and they
>> almost sound to good to be true ,
>
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
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Its seems that every time I send a Email, statements are cut out it and people
don't get the whole story.
I said:
Isolated the PFC while its on board by installing on or in a insulated
enclosure or plateform, as Rich recommended.
Install a ground fault circuit breaker in the car between the AC power input
and battery charger, so you can plug in anywhere.
Then used a insulation floor mat at your EV work site for additional safety and
comfort.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Stockton<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:59 PM
Subject: RE: PFC Ground and Pack Negative (was RE: Russco vs Zivan vs PF)
> Roland Wiench wrote:
>
> >Place those interlocking 1 inch thick matting around the EV, or do
> the entire >garage floor. There is no conductance to ground now.
But who is going to carry those matts around with them to place aroung
the EV anytime they charge in public? One of the major attractions of a
PFC charger is its (relatively) small size, PFC, and adjsutable current
limit such that it can be mounted onboard for opportunity charging and
take advantage of public outlets with unknown breaker/circuit capacity
available for your charging needs.
If one is only ever going to charge in their own garage, it makes little
sense to spend the extra bucks on a compact PFC charger instead of
getting hold of a big floor-mounted transformer-based charger and
feeding it from a 240VAC outlet. No more isolation issue.
Cheers,
Roger.
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I haven´t heard of Solid Sate Cr-F-Li Batteries before (which doesn´t
tell anything, after studying EVs only for a month or so...) - are
there other manufacuters than this one?
If I remember right, litium batteries don´t have a memory effect, but
these do?:
"When several single battery units are to be connected in parallel or
in series for use, strict selection must be carried out for batteries
with identical voltage and internal resistance. Otherwise some
batteries might be over-charged or over-discharged due to inconsistent
charging and discharging, resulting in capacity decrease and voltage
drop, even a zero voltage might be possible."
...
What about this, is it a problem in EV:
"The most obvious disadvantage of the Cr-F-Li solid power battery is
that it is not adaptable to long-term and large constant current (≥1CA)
discharge."
http://www.everspring.net/txt/product-battery-technicalinfo.htm
Osmo
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
200 ah pack will weigh under 350 pounds. Real nice in a motorcycle.
Work in a larger EV too. YOu'd need to double that to get 1200 amps
though But you would have a 400 ah pack, 240vdc at under 700 pounds.
What kind of range would that give a Blue Meanie style
car?LR...........
----- Original Message ----- From: "Osmo Sarin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Question / Pricing
I´ve been waiting for some comments on this one - are they too good
to be true? Thanks!
Osmo Sarin
24.8.2005 kello 17:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:
I looked at these http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm and
they almost sound to good to be true ,
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Rush,
On the T-125's batteries, it is best to used a standard clamp around plated
brass battery connection.
I had used spade type terminals connected to the top stop of these batteries.
The recommended torque Trojan said, was 75 inch lbs. This cause many of the
studs to pull out and made some of the post to mushroom. Many of the people on
this list with studs had this problem.
So I change them all to the standard clamp on battery connection and dress up
the stud on top by installing a stainless washer and nut.
The stud connection is a good take off point for the MK2 Rudman Regulators.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Rush<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 11:26 PM
Subject: Batteries
Got my Zilla (1k HV) a couple days ago, got my batteries today (30 T-125's)
Moving right along.... gonna be grinning soon.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org<http://www.ironandwood.org/>
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--- Begin Message ---
VFD Vacuum florescent displays are visible at night and when sun hits
them directly.
http://www.noritake-elec.com/
But the impact to costs may make this an option that only techies would
want to pay for.
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wireless. :-)
I have been designing and plotting, but don't have development funds.
zigbee or 802.11 (cc1010 or cc2420) and a mini web server. to allow us
to check progress of the car that is in the driveway by logging into the
web page. Zigbee would require a "dongle" at the recieving end, but
could make up to a mile of range, 802.11 is short range, but all over
the place.
--- End Message ---
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???
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: Alltrax Controller - protocol achieved
> Hi there,
>
> I just got a spec sheet from Alltrax on the protocol or memory addresses.
>
> Here it is.
>
> Cheers
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> * This post contains a forbidden message format *
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Hey Evan:
So - the problem is available power in terms of Kw i.e. for acceleration.
Well, I guess I have to go up to a 240 Volt system, 40 Batteries (528 Kg,
1164 lb), still better than my Trojan pack with 660Kg (1455 lb). Limiting
the NiCads to 150 A max would give me 36 Kw available .. not a rocket, but
should be ok.
And yes, the current setup (my old truck) is with an 400 A max controller,
though I rarely need more then 300.
Evan wrote:
> Again, please check your units - you probably mean 17kWh. And this is
> taking you about 35 miles at most?
At 60 Mph, yes. I may have some mechanical issues with this truck, too.
But since I am going to convert a new truck, I was not too interested in
fixing them.
So - I guess I should be aiming for 240 Volts/STM 5-100 (40 Batteries) or
174 Volts/SMT 5-140 (29 Batts).
What do you think?
mm.
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This page: http://www.bjjtzj.com/product112.asp
Claims they are 180-375 VDC input
Claudio Natoli wrote:
A nice DC/DC for those with higher voltage packs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7540996065
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--- Begin Message ---
On 8/25/05, Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hey Evan:
>
> So - the problem is available power in terms of Kw i.e. for acceleration.
> Well, I guess I have to go up to a 240 Volt system, 40 Batteries (528 Kg,
> 1164 lb), still better than my Trojan pack with 660Kg (1455 lb). Limiting
> the NiCads to 150 A max would give me 36 Kw available .. not a rocket, but
> should be ok.
Hi there,
Yes, that definitely sounds better (I would still choose a limit of
180 or 200A) - also I think that many batteries will hold about 28kWh
which should be at least 60 miles worth, perhaps more.
It would be interesting to put these figures into "Uve's electric
vehicle calculator"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/8679/evcalc.html and try
out these scenarios.
The one thing to look out for is that the modules can reach a voltage
as high as 9V each during comissioning and maintenance charges (normal
charge 8.25V or so). That high a voltage might dictate your choice of
controller and charger.
> So - I guess I should be aiming for 240 Volts/STM 5-100 (40 Batteries) or
> 174 Volts/SMT 5-140 (29 Batts).
29 of the 140s is 476kg and stores 25kWh
40 of the 100s is 528kg, stores 28kWh
Both will give roughly the same power (40-44 kW) for accelleration. I
guess the 29 cell solution may be cheaper and it should be easier to
find room for them, water them, etc.
The 29 cells "looks" more like a DC solution (using a Zilla controller
and 9" Advanced DC motor say) and the 40 cells is more Siemens or
Solectria AC drive territory, but that's not a rule by any means.
Hope that helps.
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
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This may sound off-the-wall at first, but bear with me. It might have a good
point in there somewhere.
A couple of years ago, when I first started really thinking about converting my
broken car to electric, I read about Tesla's electric car. Not knowing how he
did it, but reading different things, came to the conclusion that the it wasn't
magic, but thought there could be some high powered transmitter transmitting
power to his car. That thought led to built an indoor raceway with go-karts
with a massive transmitter transmitting power to the little go-karts. There
has been many different thoughts since that day, but basically, I have pushed
the thought to the side for now.
Recently I have read an article of someone who was trying to build a device to
get the energy around us, and turn it into an overunity device. He was doing
this in Arizona, and it looked like it worked. He had investors lined up. He
took it back to his home in California and it didn't work. In Arizona, he was
in close proximity to power lines. In California, he is in a remote area, not
close to civilization, operated by solar energy. His deduction was that it was
inductively collecting power from the lines. This is where ev's came to my
mind.
What if we put these devices in our ev's, inductively collecting power to
increase range, having a battery backup when needed? I know that this
currently is illegal, but the thought came to me, why not have the transmit
back something to the power company to "who" he is, and how much power he is
taking. That way the power company could bill the person who is using the
power. I know that this would require the power companies to upgrade. (Maybe
I should have patented this idea first.) This way, we would be able to drive
our cars anywhere there is power lines, and depending on batteries, a certain
distance away. This would take a lot of people to be willing to start
something. I don't think it could happen here in Cache Valley, Utah, as there
is only two ev's that I know of. (And only one that is legal, as mine still
needs registration, insurance, and a state inspection. If anyone wants to
donate to a good cause, I can give you my address later, and send me a check...!
;) ) But in states where there is a significant population of ev's, it
could possibly work. We could tell the power companies that they could take
some of the profits of the oil companies...
I know there could be lots of problems with this idea. How big would the
device be? What if you travel to an area with a powered by different power
company? Would they be willing to share? There might be other problems.
I would like to hear what anyone out there thinks of this idea. Good, bad,
interesting, stupid... I think it could work, if we would work together to
make it work, but this is a dream. Where is the realism?
Comments welcome.
Brian
Driver (short distances close to home and avoiding police) of an 1974 electric
voltswagon, which is not registered, insured, and needs a state inspection to
be legal to drive, for about 2 weeks now. It has been fun. I will send in
pictures, and information to the album soon.
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On 8/25/05, Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The 29 cells "looks" more like a DC solution (using a Zilla controller
> and 9" Advanced DC motor say) and the 40 cells is more Siemens or
> Solectria AC drive territory, but that's not a rule by any means.
>
Cells.. I meant batteries..
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--- Begin Message ---
There's a few alphanumeric VFDs on the surplus market that's not too
expensive, but it's not graphical.
Also be aware that a VFD takes a substantial amount of power. Granted,
it need not be on all the time, but it does take a lot more than an LCD
when it's on.
Here's a cheap 2x20 alphanumeric with a catch- no data on how to run it
is available. Guys are still determined to make it work.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=VFD-202&type=store
Danny
Jeff Shanab wrote:
VFD Vacuum florescent displays are visible at night and when sun hits
them directly.
http://www.noritake-elec.com/
But the impact to costs may make this an option that only techies would
want to pay for.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ricky Suiter wrote:
I just wanted to add here since the concept of using an electric power steering rack might be possible, that it's not just a simple rack swap. There is also an EPS control unit that's necessary along with a torque sensor that determines when and how much power steering to add. There are three Honda models that have EPS, the mentioned NSX was first, then the S2000 and Insight got it later. Granted it works very well and is very efficient, it would be quite the project to adapt it to another car.
Eh, sort of. I have the 94 Geo Prizm factory made that uses the Toyota
electric PS pump. The feedback connections are not connected; it's just
a normal boring hydraulic pump.
Works great. The only issue to worry about really is the fact that it
pulls a lot of DC power. Like 900-1,000 watts worth at full wheel lock.
So you need serious cables and a good sized DC-DC inverter.
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Let's not get into the "free energy" discussion again, please.
Regarding Tesla's electric car, IMHO it's a hoax:
http://www.tfcbooks.com/teslafaq/q&a_016.htm
Logically there's no known way he could store or transmit the power to
do that. More to the point, Tesla was always digging up a way to make
money by actually finding a practical application for his technology.
He would never have come up with something so different from his other
technology, made it work perfectly in a mind-bogglingly useful
application on the first try, and then shelved it and never tried to
sell it or apparently even tell any of his friends about it. Hoax.
There's no primary documentation in Tesla's work claiming he did
anything like this, the story was written by Derek Ahlers and says that
Tesla's nephew "Mr Savo" told him this story. Note Ahlers is not even
claiming to have seen this, he's claiming this is what Savo told him.
Tesla only wrote that power could be transmitted to power anything, even
automobiles. Doing so with radio power as he proposed would not be
possible since the power tower would have to put out truly astronomical
amounts of power since only a minute fraction could be captured. To
power a car would take hundreds or thousands of times the power of the
sun and would likely cook every living thing in the area.
Regarding induction- power leakage out of lines at 60Hz is extremely
low. It would have to be, radiated power lost from the system would be
basically the same whether or not it was captured. Now consider how
much would have to be radiated on a 50 mile line for you to capture any
useful amount of power with a 10 ft antenna that only covers a fraction
of a degree of the space around the line. Capturing it is not illegal
in any way, but a few nanowatts is not going to run anything. It might
make a fluorescent tube glow very faintly, but frankly I have my
doubts. Since there is a 100kV transmission line in the field behind my
house, I might even try it for myself to find out.
Danny
Brian Staffanson wrote:
This may sound off-the-wall at first, but bear with me. It might have a good point in there somewhere.
A couple of years ago, when I first started really thinking about converting my
broken car to electric, I read about Tesla's electric car. Not knowing how he
did it, but reading different things, came to the conclusion that the it wasn't
magic, but thought there could be some high powered transmitter transmitting
power to his car. That thought led to built an indoor raceway with go-karts
with a massive transmitter transmitting power to the little go-karts. There
has been many different thoughts since that day, but basically, I have pushed
the thought to the side for now.
Recently I have read an article of someone who was trying to build a device to
get the energy around us, and turn it into an overunity device. He was doing
this in Arizona, and it looked like it worked. He had investors lined up. He
took it back to his home in California and it didn't work. In Arizona, he was
in close proximity to power lines. In California, he is in a remote area, not
close to civilization, operated by solar energy. His deduction was that it was
inductively collecting power from the lines. This is where ev's came to my
mind.
What if we put these devices in our ev's, inductively collecting power to increase range,
having a battery backup when needed? I know that this currently is illegal, but the
thought came to me, why not have the transmit back something to the power company to
"who" he is, and how much power he is taking. That way the power company could
bill the person who is using the power. I know that this would require the power
companies to upgrade. (Maybe I should have patented this idea first.) This way, we
would be able to drive our cars anywhere there is power lines, and depending on
batteries, a certain distance away. This would take a lot of people to be willing to
start something. I don't think it could happen here in Cache Valley, Utah, as there is
only two ev's that I know of. (And only one that is legal, as mine still needs
registration, insurance, and a state inspection. If anyone wants to donate to a good
cause, I can give you my address later, and send me a check..!
.!
;) ) But in states where there is a significant population of ev's, it
could possibly work. We could tell the power companies that they could take
some of the profits of the oil companies...
I know there could be lots of problems with this idea. How big would the
device be? What if you travel to an area with a powered by different power
company? Would they be willing to share? There might be other problems.
I would like to hear what anyone out there thinks of this idea. Good, bad,
interesting, stupid... I think it could work, if we would work together to
make it work, but this is a dream. Where is the realism?
Comments welcome.
Brian
Driver (short distances close to home and avoiding police) of an 1974 electric
voltswagon, which is not registered, insured, and needs a state inspection to
be legal to drive, for about 2 weeks now. It has been fun. I will send in
pictures, and information to the album soon.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi CW e. should be e-meter :-) ,,,,,,,, nervous, well yes this is different
, but in the end you'll be very happy . You could put an ad in the paper
asking if anybody wants to help with an electric car project. This helps
spread the word and will help keep you going .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cwarman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 1:13 PM
Subject: Zilla/Warp 9
Hey Guys
Outside of the items below im assuming ill need the follow..
WarP 9
ZillA Controller
PFC Charger
Batterys
I will still need the following correct or no ?
a. Potbox ?
b. DC to DC converter for the aux battery ?
c. Contactor ?
d. Main Fuse
e. A Meter and Shunt ?
f. Sometype of Breaker with manual disconnect cable ?
g. Misc cables, boots, end etc
Im reading everything i can and very nervous im not gonna be able to pull
off the install, im nervous as im not super mech inclined...
CWarman
Ryan Stotts wrote:
Cwarman wrote:
What is better for a s-10 Conversion a Warp DC motor or a Advanced DC
motor ? Any thoughts and reasons ?
Netgain(WarP) appears to be interested in the EV market(potential
understatement). Advanced appears to be more interested in the
forklift market and potentially indifferent towards EV's(that's my
impression anyways).
http://www.go-ev.com/ (Netgain/WarP)
http://www.warfieldelectric.com/ (Supposedly builds the WarP motors)
http://www.adcmotors.com/
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That powercheq looks very interesting but can't find anywhere that states
it's got a model for 6 volt batteries. All the info I see says it's for 12
volt batteries.
Got a clue to pass on?
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> What if we put these devices in our ev's, inductively collecting power
> [from power lines] to increase range, having a battery backup when
> needed?
If I understand basic electrical and magnetic field principles correctly,
you would have to drive right under the power lines, with a coil sliding
along the line, to pick up any significant amount of energy. That would
sort of tend to slow down progress, since you'd have to stop at every pole
and refit the coil. ;-)
True, fluorescent lamps can glow when near power wires, but it's not what
you'd call usable energy and certainly not enough to power an EV.
When overunity devices appear to work, it's usually the result of incorrect
observation and careless measurement by a poorly educated experimenter.
Note though that I'm a EE dropout, so others who aced the course may have
better information.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rudman Regs do work stand alone...They should work fine with Russco's and
Zivans.
Just keep in mind that they won't be communicating with the chargers unless
you use a PFC charger.
So adjusting the Regs to the charger's finicky settings is YOUR
responsibility. Zivans are preprogramed and prettey much do what they darn
well please, the regs need to be adjust so the Zivan won't cook them all
day. The Regs will over heat and time out... while they are hot they don't
protect the battery they are hooked to. They try... but 45 watts a reg is
no match for 1800 watts of more of charger.
The Russco... I assume it's adjustable..... so you can set it down or
the regs up...I am not sure how tight Russ's voltage Regulation is...But
they should work well.
Again... If you are flooded... water is cheap, don't use the regs.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cwarman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 1:48 PM
Subject: Russco vs Zivan vs PFC
> Im wondering if on a limited budget if this is an area that i could
> scrimp just a tad and go with a Russco or Zivan for $500-$700 cheaper
> than the cheapest PFC ?
>
>
> I read alot about people using Russco and Zivan Chargers with good
> luck. Also if i did go with a PFC will i still have to have and use the
> Rudman voltage controll regulators ? Would I have to have these with
> the Russco or Zivan as well ?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Cwarman
>
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess what im concerned with and maybe i should ask Canev or someone
if the Warp9 will fit right into the Motor mount etc that they made for
the ADC 9's they sell..
Anyone have any experience here with this...
CWarman
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
almost the same , the warp 9 is 16.7 long , about 1/2 inch longer
which is becuse the brushes are bigger .
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Netgain Warp Dimensions
They are the same dimensions as ADC, except the Impulse 9" which is
shorter and I have ordered for my car.
Mark Ward
St. Charles,MO
95 Saab 900SE
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
From: Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/08/24 Wed AM 08:36:06 EST
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Netgain Warp Dimensions
Speaking of which , ive read that the WarP 9in DC motor is of the same
dimensions as the ADC9 motor, so im assuming that the motor mounts in
the kits that places like EvAmerica and Canev would fit the Warp9 ?
Cwarman
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 16:46:34 -0700, Victor Tikhonov
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Email alert sent to you if charging failure
>
>Who's to check the email before driving? You must be jocking?
Actually us Unix types are used to getting all the system alarms,
alerts and status reports via email. It's second-nature to me to
check the email before I do anything to a system.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My E-meter always frustrated me (in my Sparrow) because I couldn't read
the Ah counter and voltage at the same time. The Sparrow has a separate
amp meter, so I could see that simultaneously. But what I really want
is to be able to glance at amps, volts and amp-hours all at the same
time.
- Jake Oshins
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:26 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
Don, great input! Let me comment what is done and what is
planned so you and others can suggest further. Please keep
your ideas flowing, this is your gadget. IF you don't speak up,
you won't get what you want!
Don Cameron wrote:
> Here is what I like about the E-Meter:
>
> High Importance
> - low cost
Will try, depends on the rest of this list :-)
> - RS232 output
done
> - fuel gauge/percentage of "full"
done
> - settable battery capacity/Peukerts
done
> - great technical support
You'll be the judge. There is something of a little
importance to you - I need to take care of overseas custoemrs
support too.
> Medium Importance
> - high visibility of user interface in most light conditions
Is your preference LEDs or LCD?
IF you want 2 (say, 7-segmet LED) displays,
do you mind to have digits smaller or you'd rather have
the face bigger?
Do you want to keep it round or square (BRUSA style) is OK?
Do you think most people would install it into the
instrument cluster (so remote buttons needed) or into/onto
the dash?
> - battery remote temp display
>
Easy. How many points?
>
> Here is what I do not like about the EMeter
>
>
> High Importance
> - "sleep" mode power consumption is too high
Does it currently sleep with LEDs ON?
> -- very sensitive to installation mistakes
Don't know about this one. I only have 12V house power
to be connected, that's it.
> - Ugly user interface (80s style)
In what respect? Can you elaborate?
> - $80 prescaler required for high voltage systems
As BRUSA front end, mine covers 15...500V in one shot.
> - poor user guide
I'll let you edit it, OK? :-)
>
> Medium Importance
> - high voltage is brought into the cabin
Taken care of.
> - digital meter for instantaneous volts and amps is not too useful -
better
> to have fake analog
Done (24 LEDs configurable analog bar).
> - RS232 not isolated
Taken care of.
> Things on the "wild side"
> - built in GPS
Option - taken care of.
> - record all data for downloading after a trip
Done. ~2 weeks worth of live data.
> - keep track of regen
Done, there is no distinction between regen and charging as
far as the gadget is concerned. Just tracks Ah in and out.
> - have a "gauge" which indicates how efficient the person is driving
(??)
Done
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
Cool! Thanks Don.
Anyone else?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not much different than the power required for a Toyota MR2 PS Pump.
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Christopher Zach
Sent: August 25, 2005 8:30 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: (Electric) Power Steering
Ricky Suiter wrote:
> I just wanted to add here since the concept of using an electric power
steering rack might be possible, that it's not just a simple rack swap.
There is also an EPS control unit that's necessary along with a torque
sensor that determines when and how much power steering to add. There are
three Honda models that have EPS, the mentioned NSX was first, then the
S2000 and Insight got it later. Granted it works very well and is very
efficient, it would be quite the project to adapt it to another car.
Eh, sort of. I have the 94 Geo Prizm factory made that uses the Toyota
electric PS pump. The feedback connections are not connected; it's just a
normal boring hydraulic pump.
Works great. The only issue to worry about really is the fact that it pulls
a lot of DC power. Like 900-1,000 watts worth at full wheel lock.
So you need serious cables and a good sized DC-DC inverter.
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Red Insight #559
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
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> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
