EV Digest 4923
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Automatic transmission
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) "semi" automatic transmission in 96 Aspire listed on EV Trading Post
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) RE: Question for Otmar re breaker position
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Radio Interference
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: EV - Motorcycle CROSSES the USA
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) FWD Hacks?
by jerry halstead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: "semi" automatic transmission in 96 Aspire listed on EV Trading Post
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Range Extending
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: FWD Hacks?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Riddle me this (newbie)....Thanks for the replies
by "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Range Extending
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: "semi" automatic transmission in 96 Aspire listed on EV Trading Post
by Chris Martens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: FWD Hacks?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: EV production! Who's interested in figuring out how to make $
at this!
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: FWD Hacks?
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EAAEV Chapter.......... Dave?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: FWD Hacks?
by jerry halstead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Motor order
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) OPPPS
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: EV production! Who's interested in figuring out how to make $ at this!
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: FWD Hacks?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: FWD Hacks?
by jerry halstead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Zero EV sports car?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: EV production! Who's interested in figuring out how to make $
at this!
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) GO-4 transaxle
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Traction Control with DC??
by "acid_lead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> > <<I think White Zombie would be faster if it had a 2 or 3 speed
> automatic.>>
> >
> > or maybe a 2-speed truck diff - kinda big, but built to take a lot of
> torque.
> >
>
> How much weight would it add?
>
Don't know, butthe Zombie's current diff is pretty big! How much added weight
would outweigh the benefit?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Last night I noticed someone selling a 96 Aspire EV project on the EV Trading
Post (somewhat local to my area, but no one that I know). He says that it
has an automatic transmission that is manually shifted. That is an idea that I
proposed about a month ago when someone was looking for a clutchless
transmission. The car is incomplete, so who knows how well it may or may not
work.
Does anyone have any experience with doing this. It is simply the mechanical
gearbox out of the automatic with the torque converter removed. Since this
is how I proposed to build my vehicle, and it looks like someone has already
done the work, I am very interested in how they accomplished it and if anyone
else has done the same. Also, I am interested in any opinions on if it will
work or not, and if it has to be idled or not. I am still waiting to hear back
from the owner, and I will post any further details if I get them.
By the way, the price is right on the project, and it is over here in the
Southeast, quite a rarity as far as finding a vehicle (actually incomplete
project) in this area.
Thanks,
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know about you but I would be VERY leary of putting ANYTHING that is
channeling 400 amps or more under my seat. Heck if anything went wrong you
would be the first to catch fire! Why not put the Zilla on the inside of
the firewall on the passenger side?
-----Original Message-----
From: James Massey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2005 4:19 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Question for Otmar re breaker position
Hi Otmar and all
For me, the simplest spot to install my breaker/mechanical isolator is in
between the traction contactor (in the under-tray box) and the Zilla (in
the motor bay under the drivers' seat).
If I wire the precharger across the breaker and the contactor, and the
breaker trips, the Zilla will see what it would think to be the traction
breaker going off.
If I have the precharger just across the traction contactor, it'd see
pre-charge immediately?
This should be no different to having a traction fuse blow, but does this
upset the Zilla?
Thanks
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One possible thing you might want to try is to twist the positive and
negative motor cables together. This will only work if you are running
large cables and they don't get hot. If they are twisted together the high
frequency waveform EMI will cancel each other out between the positive and
negative cables. You can also try and shield each cable with braided line
and run the braid to ground. There are also EMI filters you can buy for the
12V positive line going into your radio.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2005 7:54 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Radio Interference
I have a Curtis 1231C and 8 inch ADC motor in my car.
When I put my foot on the pedal the radio gets serious interference.
Does anyone have a simple cure?
Rod Dilkes
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Remember if you get a diesel that you can add propane injection - it
improves both power and gas mileage. Also, any improvements to intake
airflow and exhaust flow will improve both as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Smalley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 12:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV - Motorcycle CROSSES the USA
Be careful of diesel motorhomes with small engines. Some are pretty slow.
A guy that RVs with us crawls up a 5% grade at about 20 MPH. I usually go
about 45 MPH and several others in the group can go 60 to 70 MPH. All of us
tow car trailers and have a gross combined vehicle weight between 17000 and
19000 pounds.
The slow guy gets about 20 MPG from diesel and the rest of us get 6 to 10
MPG from gasoline.
I have talked to guys with diesel bus chassis that go 70 MPH up a 5% grade
towing a dingy. They claim 9 to 12 MPG for 25000 pounds gross combined
vehicle weight.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2005 4:17 AM
Subject: Re: EV - Motorcycle CROSSES the USA
> > Guess the POINT of the show, is to go cross the whole country, without
> > using any petrolium fuel. ( too bad their gigantic 2 ton GMC Motorhome
> > is their support vehicle... They did not mention it, but perhaps it is
> > bio-diesel fueled...)
>
> Huh?? Most so-called "small" pickup trucks weigh in at, or near, 2 tons.
> I'm pretty sure even "small" motorhomes weigh considerably more than that.
>
> I get your point though.
>
> I've been looking for an affordable motorhome that uses a diesel engine
> just so I can run it on bio-diesel. Unfortunately "affordable" and
> "diesel" seem to be mutually exclusive when it comes to motorhomes.
>
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On our first EV (144v,Curtis,9" ADC) I pretty much always drove in
second gear, with a bump to third on the rare occasion that I drove
over 40. For daily commuting and errands the roads are all 30mph,
with the house on a moderately steep hill the last mile. There's one
section of interstate (not on commute route), barely two miles long,
but it can be easily avoided.
While "cleaning up" the passenger compartment I removed the whole
shift assembly. Now I'm seriously considering leaving it out for
good. Permanently pop the tranny in 2nd and leave it be. I have a
set of contactors to make an electric reverse.
Am I missing any obvious reasons for NOT doing this?
pros: simpler for folks to drive (me & wife), slightly lighter,
cleaner
cons: no 1st gear for creeping home during really low battery
condition, ??
Just for fun I thumbed through the transmission section of the Ford
Probe shop manual. My eyes glazed over in confusion before I could
figure out if there's any way to get rid of the shifting section of
the transmission altogether. That is, any way to keep just the
differential/gears needed and toss the rest? Any reason to?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Steve,
In 1976, I pick up my first EV, name the Transformer I from the Electric Fuel
Propulsion Company in Troy, Michingan. They said it was a semi-automatic
transmission. It was a 3 speed manual full sycro transmission with a clutch.
The reason for the clutch, was that the user could get used to shifting it
without the clutch, which I could after awhile, while the car was still moving.
I still have to used the clutch at times at full stop to shift from forward to
reverse, but I could get it in gear without the clutch by giving it a little
rpm.
In another car, they did have a automatic transmission without the torque
converters, but had a electric pump to bring up the oil pressure. In testing
this set up, the automatic transmission disc pack was worn out in less than
1000 miles. There was too much start up slippage on these disc.
Some users wanted a automatic transmission in there EV, so they set it up with
a idle control. My EV has the idle control which I can shift the manual
transmission without clutching. After 30 years on the same clutch which is a
metallic racing type, it still look like it had only 500 miles on it. Still
using it in my other EV.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 4:08 AM
Subject: "semi" automatic transmission in 96 Aspire listed on EV Trading Post
Last night I noticed someone selling a 96 Aspire EV project on the EV Trading
Post (somewhat local to my area, but no one that I know). He says that it
has an automatic transmission that is manually shifted. That is an idea that
I
proposed about a month ago when someone was looking for a clutchless
transmission. The car is incomplete, so who knows how well it may or may not
work.
Does anyone have any experience with doing this. It is simply the mechanical
gearbox out of the automatic with the torque converter removed. Since this
is how I proposed to build my vehicle, and it looks like someone has already
done the work, I am very interested in how they accomplished it and if anyone
else has done the same. Also, I am interested in any opinions on if it will
work or not, and if it has to be idled or not. I am still waiting to hear
back
from the owner, and I will post any further details if I get them.
By the way, the price is right on the project, and it is over here in the
Southeast, quite a rarity as far as finding a vehicle (actually incomplete
project) in this area.
Thanks,
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Fortunat and All,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Fortunat wrote,
<<2,112 ft.
Maybe not in Florida, but elsewhere in the country,
this isn't a particularly large climb.
last month i drove an ev (of sorts) up a road that
gained 8,000 ft of altitude in about 17 miles, for an
average grade of more than 8 %. Now THAT, was a steep
climb.>>
Good catch, I was thinking abut a 10% grade post I answered before
and crossed it up. Thanks.
But it still doesn't change my mind in that if the engine needed
is anywhere around 100 lbs like his larger engine suggestions were,, better to
go with a Geo Metro 3cyl as a better, lower emissions motor. But that would
rather defeat the purpose.
I'd only use newer tech modified industural motors in the lower hp
range of 12 hp and less to take advantage of the lighter weight.
In his case I'd go for a larger batt pack instead of a larger ICE
motor as batt EV drive is so much more eff that ICE drive.
Also few climbs are straight up grade, rather up and down trending
up plus traffic, stop lights, signs, thus giving time for the batts to be
recharged during the slowed, stopped, flat and down grade portions.
And why a series rather than a parallel hybrid is better in some ways.
Cowtown wrote,
Weren't some of the more short-lived EVs designed in Florida?
Somewhat but they also had some of the biggest production totals
in most cases. Regretfully the Citi-car/ Sebring was badly executed and the
others, car, pickup conversions with the inherent problems that method creates.
But we are still driving many of them even 25 yrs later shows the staying power
of EV's !!
Certainly would be
best to aim for more than the flat-and-balmy parts of the US!
Not nessasarily as there is no problem doing mountain areas, you
just go with a higher rpm motor and higher gearing to give more torque. Here
is where regen of the E tek's can help. Maybe a series motor and an E tek
would be a good choice for more mountainous area's.
The Cascades and
Sierra Nevadas have millions of potential EV buyers close to mile after mile of
6% grade (interstates with truck lanes uphill, "brake check" areas at the top,
and runaway truck turnoffs going down). A Microbus passing an EVs on a 5 mile
grade is just not good press.
Another reason for a built from scratch EV that's lightweight, lower
drag with a realitively larger batt pack of 100 mile range is needed to handle
these higher demands.
With my very lightweight, 60% battery weight, low drag, twin motor EV,
it's much less a problem if any at all. This low drag, long EV range allows me
to use a much smaller generator than a conversion with a small battery pack
for unlimited range.. And the twin motor allows much more cont power from them
Vs a single motor as more brush, com area, motor heat radiating surface and
twin fans.
If one is going to go with a conversion, you will have to except the
compromises and why I have always built from scratch to increase performance
and lower drag, costs, weight.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jerry,
To test out your overall ratio in 2nd gear, just jack the rear wheels off the
ground. Mark a reference point on the pilot shaft on the motor and turn the
wheel one turn. Count the number of turns the motor takes. The ratio between
the turns is your overall ratio.
If you do not have a pilot shaft on the motor, than mark a reference point on
the drive line and rotate the wheel one turn. The ratio between the turns is
you differential ratio.
Find out what your 2nd gear transmission ratio is and multiple the transmission
ratio times the differential ratio. This will be your overall ratio.
Instead of using a transmission, just replace your pinion and ring with that
overall gear ratio. My is about 14:1 in 2nd gear, which is still enough speed
to go 90 mph at 6000 rpm.
Here is a formula you can use to see what overall gear ratio you need.
RPM x Tire Circumference (one turn on the ground)
MPH = -------------------------------
Ratio x 1056
RPM x Tire Circumference
Ratio = ---------------------------------
MPH x 1056
Use a driveline adapter on your motor shaft, so the lengthen drive line can be
direct connected to it. Allow the driveline to move back and forth on this
adapter for about a inch as it would off a transmission.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: jerry halstead<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: FWD Hacks?
On our first EV (144v,Curtis,9" ADC) I pretty much always drove in
second gear, with a bump to third on the rare occasion that I drove
over 40. For daily commuting and errands the roads are all 30mph,
with the house on a moderately steep hill the last mile. There's one
section of interstate (not on commute route), barely two miles long,
but it can be easily avoided.
While "cleaning up" the passenger compartment I removed the whole
shift assembly. Now I'm seriously considering leaving it out for
good. Permanently pop the tranny in 2nd and leave it be. I have a
set of contactors to make an electric reverse.
Am I missing any obvious reasons for NOT doing this?
pros: simpler for folks to drive (me & wife), slightly lighter,
cleaner
cons: no 1st gear for creeping home during really low battery
condition, ??
Just for fun I thumbed through the transmission section of the Ford
Probe shop manual. My eyes glazed over in confusion before I could
figure out if there's any way to get rid of the shifting section of
the transmission altogether. That is, any way to keep just the
differential/gears needed and toss the rest? Any reason to?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/<http://www.evconvert.com/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check your GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight for that car.
I think the (20) T105's will put you way over the weight limit.
E-mail me off line. I put together a spec sheet on the 240Z that I can send
you.
Dennis
Elsberry, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 4:23 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: RE: Riddle me this (newbie)....Thanks for the replies
Nah....The gas 240 is quite a nice little car and will come in handy when I
have used up the charge on the Electric and need to go somewhere when I need
more than one passsenger. The funny thing is I paid $1000 for both cars and
only needed $500 more to get the gas car totally reliable (I have put 7,000
miles on it since I bought it). Now if I can get the electric built the way
I want. I was thinking of this setup:
Netgain 11 inch motor
Electro Automotive motor to tranny adapter 20 Hawkers for acceleration (460
pounds) 20 Trojan T105 for cruise Zilla controller
I was thinking I can have both battery packs and use the hawkers for off the
line acceleration, switching to the T105s with a selector switch once I am
up to speed. That way I can have blistering acceleration AND pretty decent
range. If I feel like a leasurly drive around town I can stick with the
T105s. Has anyone ever tried a dual purpose battery pack arrangement?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 4:21 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: RE: Riddle me this (newbie)....Thanks for the replies
Thats no fun... Convert both 240zx's and swap.
starting with 240/1 at home charged and the 240/2 at work charging at night
slowly drive 240/1 to work when you leave work plug in 240/1 and leave it
there and drive 240/2 home and plug it in.
Now if they won't let you charge at work, then since you are swaping, the
chargeing station doesn't have to be at work, perhaps an rv place a few
miles away or another EV'er or city recharge station.
I was thinking of 2 EV's so I can swap, since my house is rather central to
school and work, I could swap mid day just to keep each car at shallower
charges most the time and allow easily for those days that include
work,school,store,and multiple errands.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> last month i drove an ev (of sorts) up a road that
> gained 8,000 ft of altitude in about 17 miles, for an
> average grade of more than 8 %. Now THAT, was a steep
> climb.
>
Hmmmmm, 8,000 ft. Well, it wasn't in CT, or anywhere on the East Coast. Where
was the climb? What
were you driving? Anything interesting?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have seen kits that change a standard automatic transmission to an 'manual'
one. It's basically just a different valve plate/body that you install. Then
the transmission will stay in whatever gear you put it in(low:1, 2ND:2,
drive:3).
It is targeted for people racing w/automatics, so they can control their motors
RPMs better. It won't make the transmission any more efficient, as it's just a
shift logic difference.
Chris
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Steve,
>
> In 1976, I pick up my first EV, name the Transformer I from the Electric Fuel
> Propulsion Company in Troy, Michingan. They said it was a semi-automatic
> transmission. It was a 3 speed manual full sycro transmission with a clutch.
> The reason for the clutch, was that the user could get used to shifting it
> without the clutch, which I could after awhile, while the car was still
> moving.
>
>
> I still have to used the clutch at times at full stop to shift from forward to
> reverse, but I could get it in gear without the clutch by giving it a little
> rpm.
>
> In another car, they did have a automatic transmission without the torque
> converters, but had a electric pump to bring up the oil pressure. In testing
> this set up, the automatic transmission disc pack was worn out in less than
> 1000 miles. There was too much start up slippage on these disc.
>
> Some users wanted a automatic transmission in there EV, so they set it up with
> a idle control. My EV has the idle control which I can shift the manual
> transmission without clutching. After 30 years on the same clutch which is a
> metallic racing type, it still look like it had only 500 miles on it. Still
> using it in my other EV.
>
> Roland
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 4:08 AM
> Subject: "semi" automatic transmission in 96 Aspire listed on EV Trading
> Post
>
>
> Last night I noticed someone selling a 96 Aspire EV project on the EV
> Trading
>
> Post (somewhat local to my area, but no one that I know). He says that it
> has an automatic transmission that is manually shifted. That is an idea
> that
> I
> proposed about a month ago when someone was looking for a clutchless
> transmission. The car is incomplete, so who knows how well it may or may
> not
> work.
>
> Does anyone have any experience with doing this. It is simply the
> mechanical
>
> gearbox out of the automatic with the torque converter removed. Since this
> is how I proposed to build my vehicle, and it looks like someone has
> already
> done the work, I am very interested in how they accomplished it and if
> anyone
>
> else has done the same. Also, I am interested in any opinions on if it
> will
> work or not, and if it has to be idled or not. I am still waiting to hear
> back
> from the owner, and I will post any further details if I get them.
>
> By the way, the price is right on the project, and it is over here in the
> Southeast, quite a rarity as far as finding a vehicle (actually incomplete
> project) in this area.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jerry halstead wrote:
> On our first EV (144v, Curtis,9" ADC) I pretty much always drove in
> second gear... I removed the whole shift assembly... I'm seriously
> considering leaving it out for good. Permanently pop the tranny in
> 2nd and leave it be. Am I missing any obvious reasons for NOT doing
Before you do, put an ammeter in series with your motor and measure
motor current under various conditions. Just how high does motor current
get during accelleration and hill-climbing? If you run for long periods
of time (many minutes) over 200 amps at low speeds, the motor will get
very hot, and will need extra cooling (an external blower).
Also, measure or calculate the motor rpm from the tire size and wheel
diameter). If your gear ratio is too low, motor rpm can be too high and
you can't achieve the desired speed.
The trick to going shiftless is to have a single gear ratio that doesn't
force the motor too high in rpm or too high in current.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was citing an example not actualy specific numbers but that is REALLY
encourageing that motor and controller prices drop that fast with such
small quantity orders.
I will be gathering this kind of info for
motors
batteries
controllers
suspension
etc
but I can see where some specifics need to be given.
There is little room in battery prices, if we are talking about lead, I
am not. :-(
There is probably a much quicker discount schedule if we are talking
series DC motors that are in production, I am not :-(
Maybe Same on controllers :-( AC propulsions setup may be perfect, I
havent taken a close look. but I wonder is 25K the cost or does 25K try
to pay for the research too. What could they cost in mass production?
In order to get the kind of range,weight,reliability i am thinking
motors Hollow shaft water cooled induction motor with
single speed gear reduction and integral differential
batteries Kokam? lithium Poly packs that have integrated BMS
for charge balance and monitoring and telemetry.
Loaded into bottom of car in such a way
that future quick change is possible
controllers single brain unit can handle 2 power units 4 wheel
speed inputs and can communicate to charger and User Interface computer
DC-DC water cooled but small, headlights and blower are no longer 12V.
suspension Adjustable coil over, When a second battery pack is
added and or a second motor we would want to change springs and/or preload
Creature comforts : Instant heat, Autonomous Air conditioning, solar
powered parking lot vent, On board server and mp3 player is part of UI
computer. If car is in range of wireless you can go to it's web
page,(password protected), while you are inside the house or starbucks
or whatever and check charge status, upload/download music, download or
look at telemetry.
Infrastructure : Charging Kiosks to be installed in parking lots by
renting stalls from malls and major stores. These are plug in and slide
your "charge" card thru and walk away. The "Charge" card is issued by
the service department and tells the unit your voltage and comm
protocol. It will cost more per kwh than at home to pay for themselfs.
The also have a web presence so you can check to see if the ones at the
mall are busy, I don' know if reservations are a good idea yet. You may
call a phonenumber, type in your charge code and hear a computer voice
rattle off charge status.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes - REVERSE. Why go through the added expense and brush problems
associated with electric reverse when you already have a perfectly fine
setup for it?
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry halstead [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 7:53 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: FWD Hacks?
On our first EV (144v,Curtis,9" ADC) I pretty much always drove in
second gear, with a bump to third on the rare occasion that I drove
over 40. For daily commuting and errands the roads are all 30mph,
with the house on a moderately steep hill the last mile. There's one
section of interstate (not on commute route), barely two miles long,
but it can be easily avoided.
While "cleaning up" the passenger compartment I removed the whole
shift assembly. Now I'm seriously considering leaving it out for
good. Permanently pop the tranny in 2nd and leave it be. I have a
set of contactors to make an electric reverse.
Am I missing any obvious reasons for NOT doing this?
pros: simpler for folks to drive (me & wife), slightly lighter,
cleaner
cons: no 1st gear for creeping home during really low battery
condition, ??
Just for fun I thumbed through the transmission section of the Ford
Probe shop manual. My eyes glazed over in confusion before I could
figure out if there's any way to get rid of the shifting section of
the transmission altogether. That is, any way to keep just the
differential/gears needed and toss the rest? Any reason to?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Calling Dave Stensland of Megawatt Motors fame!! Dave got your ears on?
Isn't this in your 'hood, or at least time zone?Heres a live one!
Bob, Just down the road in CT.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don B. Davidson III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: EAAEV Chapter
If there are any EV'r living around Syracuse, NY I look to form a Central NY
Chapter of EAAEV
Don Davidson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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On Nov 21, 2005, at 9:06 AM, Roland Wiench wrote:
Instead of using a transmission, just replace your pinion and ring
with that overall gear ratio. My is about 14:1 in 2nd gear, which
is still enough speed to go 90 mph at 6000 rpm.
Ok, will have to re-consult the manual as I have no idea what the
pinion or the ring is. ":^)
Are they in the bell housing of a front wheel drive unit?
Use a driveline adapter on your motor shaft, so the lengthen drive
line can be direct connected to it. Allow the driveline to move
back and forth on this adapter for about a inch as it would off a
transmission.
This sorta sounds like rear-wheel drive, but I'm not very familiar
with either of them.
On Nov 21, 2005, at 12:49 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
The trick to going shiftless is to have a single gear ratio that
doesn't
force the motor too high in rpm or too high in current.
Thank you for the suggestions. Will investigate further before
finalizing anything.
On Nov 21, 2005, at 10:12 AM, Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
Yes - REVERSE. Why go through the added expense and brush problems
associated with electric reverse when you already have a perfectly
fine
setup for it?
I already own the contactors and extra cables, so cost isn't an
issue. Are there significant brush problems from an occasional
reverse operation?
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Hey Jeff
Okay it's monday morning and I'm off to the shop. Have you mulled over your
options this weekend. Are you still looking to get a twin set up working??
Cause I'm thinking about going ahead and getting like 4 cores shipped in if you
do. That will allow me to bring them in more cost effectively. I can also let
Keith at Dutchman know we have another twin to shaft up. Now I might have him
get in touch for any questions / input you would like to have concerning the
shaft material and output shaft. It sems some issues have been addressed but
some remain. I want to make sure that you get what you are looking for. I
assure you that you will be getting alot more for the money than the typical
1200 to 1300.00 I've been quoating out for the single motor. Being alot of
this is still new, and it is yet a production type of proccess it is hard for
me to say exactly what it will take. I do know that so far EV jobs are netting
me my labor and paying for materials, and thats abou!
t it, but
I enjoy the challenge and the smiles my motors are offering. Again just
making sure that we are a go for flight before I hit the go botton.
Talk to you soon. I;ll check my E-mail at the shop throughout the day.
Jim
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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sorry all
ment to send privately
and here I am at the list in my underwear, LMAO
I guess to many private and list emails. I chose poorly, LMAO
Cya all
Jim
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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Jeff, what is it that you are building? a 2 seater commuter? a 4 seater
sedan? a sports car?
Also, what is Autonomous Air conditioning?
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
Sent: November 21, 2005 8:13 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: EV production! Who's interested in figuring out how to make $
at this!
I was citing an example not actualy specific numbers but that is REALLY
encourageing that motor and controller prices drop that fast with such small
quantity orders.
I will be gathering this kind of info for
motors
batteries
controllers
suspension
etc
but I can see where some specifics need to be given.
There is little room in battery prices, if we are talking about lead, I am
not. :-( There is probably a much quicker discount schedule if we are
talking series DC motors that are in production, I am not :-( Maybe Same on
controllers :-( AC propulsions setup may be perfect, I havent taken a close
look. but I wonder is 25K the cost or does 25K try to pay for the research
too. What could they cost in mass production?
In order to get the kind of range,weight,reliability i am thinking
motors Hollow shaft water cooled induction motor with
single speed gear reduction and integral differential
batteries Kokam? lithium Poly packs that have integrated BMS
for charge balance and monitoring and telemetry.
Loaded into bottom of car in such a way that
future quick change is possible
controllers single brain unit can handle 2 power units 4 wheel
speed inputs and can communicate to charger and User Interface computer
DC-DC water cooled but small, headlights and blower are no longer 12V.
suspension Adjustable coil over, When a second battery pack is
added and or a second motor we would want to change springs and/or preload
Creature comforts : Instant heat, Autonomous Air conditioning, solar
powered parking lot vent, On board server and mp3 player is part of UI
computer. If car is in range of wireless you can go to it's web
page,(password protected), while you are inside the house or starbucks or
whatever and check charge status, upload/download music, download or look at
telemetry.
Infrastructure : Charging Kiosks to be installed in parking lots by
renting stalls from malls and major stores. These are plug in and slide your
"charge" card thru and walk away. The "Charge" card is issued by the
service department and tells the unit your voltage and comm protocol. It
will cost more per kwh than at home to pay for themselfs.
The also have a web presence so you can check to see if the ones at the mall
are busy, I don' know if reservations are a good idea yet. You may call a
phonenumber, type in your charge code and hear a computer voice rattle off
charge status.
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Jerry, I considered the same, although I do find it convenient for those
rare times to shift it into 1st or 3rd when I go on the highway. Just for
those rare occasions I left it in.
Imagine if you batteries were low and trying to make it up the last hill.
You would have to pull over and park, get a tow truck.
I know what you mean about cleaner and lighter. I just tell other drivers
not to change the gear.
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of jerry halstead
Sent: November 21, 2005 4:53 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: FWD Hacks?
On our first EV (144v,Curtis,9" ADC) I pretty much always drove in second
gear, with a bump to third on the rare occasion that I drove over 40. For
daily commuting and errands the roads are all 30mph, with the house on a
moderately steep hill the last mile. There's one section of interstate (not
on commute route), barely two miles long, but it can be easily avoided.
While "cleaning up" the passenger compartment I removed the whole shift
assembly. Now I'm seriously considering leaving it out for good.
Permanently pop the tranny in 2nd and leave it be. I have a set of
contactors to make an electric reverse.
Am I missing any obvious reasons for NOT doing this?
pros: simpler for folks to drive (me & wife), slightly lighter, cleaner
cons: no 1st gear for creeping home during really low battery condition,
??
Just for fun I thumbed through the transmission section of the Ford Probe
shop manual. My eyes glazed over in confusion before I could figure out if
there's any way to get rid of the shifting section of the transmission
altogether. That is, any way to keep just the differential/gears needed and
toss the rest? Any reason to?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/
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On Nov 21, 2005, at 9:27 AM, Don Cameron wrote:
Jerry, I considered the same, although I do find it convenient for
those
rare times to shift it into 1st or 3rd when I go on the highway.
Just for
those rare occasions I left it in.
Imagine if you batteries were low and trying to make it up the last
hill.
You would have to pull over and park, get a tow truck.
That's a good point.
Hmm, maybe I shorten the shifter so there's just a little nub
sticking out of the carpet? Better yet, make the stick shift so it
threads into the base. Unscrew it and keep hidden in the glove box
only for emergencies! ":^)
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/
--- End Message ---
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I found this link on the web this morning:
http://www.boomplustoys.net/zerosports/evcar.htm No details, it looks like
a single seater, no door, no roof electric go cart, but is hard to tell.
Anyone see this before?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
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> I think AC propulsion aimed a little to high. Most people see them as
> making the t-zero as there product.
> an 80K sportscar 2 seater is already a very slim market. I am thinking
> a much more modest 2+2 sedan of which I think there is a market iff you
> can hit the price point.
>
> Tropica, another 2 seater open top sports car. Personally what I want
> but NOT the way to start a car company.
> Tango.... see a pattern?
My guess is that they figured out how much it would cost them to produce
an electric car, and came up with a number that was so high that they felt
that only people who buy sports cars would pay that much, so they built
sports cars.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
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Hi,
I was curious if anyone has converted a GO-4 and know what front end the rear
was made from. It looks difficult to interface an electric motor since these
are automatics and integrated into the transaxle. The Cushman looks easier due
to a solid rear end but I've heard the GO-4 handles better at 45mph.
Thanks, Mark
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You could put a secondary throttle pot in series with the primary one.
Control a motor to move the secondary when you detect excess wheel
spin. Now, when one drive wheel loses traction, the control system
responds and makes the controller think you've lifted off the throttle.
I have seen "kits" for traction control that include wheel rate
sensors (don't remember where). I suspect they sell very few of these
and might listen if you asked for just the sensor assemblies.
-GT
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/17/2005 5:52:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << Few if any systems actually
> limit the power delivered to the wheels, they just stop it when it
gets
> there. >>
>
> Many do, by retarding timing, backing off the throttle, altering cam
timing
> and manifold tuning in addition to cycling the appropriate brake.
>
> Ben
>
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