EV Digest 4950
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Inertia Switch
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Fwd: HV DC/DC
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) EMT Safety classes...was Re: Inertia Switch
by lyle sloan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EMT Safety classes...was Re: Inertia Switch
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Clinton Library EV Charge station
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Inertia Switch
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Extra TAX on High-Milage Hybrids ?? WHAT !!
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Stalled motors (was Re: Inertia Switch)
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Ac vs Dc
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: batteries
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Stalled motors (was Re: Inertia Switch)
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Kaboom! (was NAPA Floddies)
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: HV DC/DC
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Clinton Library EV Charge station
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Motor-gearbox connection problem + clutchless idea (Don?)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Motor-gearbox connection problem + clutchless idea
by Osmo Sarin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) 21 Ponies?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Tango fo sale on eBay (not built yet)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Electric step van in MO
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) 2-speed tranny
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) One more 2-speed (for a motorcycle)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Solectria Tilt bed lift
by "Tom Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Inertia Switch
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Fwd: HV DC/DC
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Is anyone on the list using 6-volt AGMs or Gel Cells?
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Switching Capacitor Circuit
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Tango fo sale on eBay (not built yet)
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) House Power
by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Job Opportunity at Lawless Industries Ltd
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
30) RE: House Power
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Solectria Tilt bed lift
by Ross Henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---I think not everyone here is actually aware of the forces generated in an accident even at moderate speeds.I asked an EMT-turned-Firefighter relative about this, and his first hand knowledge is that inertia cutoff switches can make a difference, but rarely (it's a fire safety issue with gasoline flow). His (rather morbid) opinion is that given the severity of the accident required to do this, your car and/or you are most likely dead at that point. So either your car isn't going anywhere now matter what power is flowing, or you really don't care at the moment...He did point out that he would be quite nervous pulling/cutting you out of an EV which wasn't so equipped to break the current as close to the battery pack as possible during an accident. YMMVBut if you're wearing your seatbelt that shouldn't be an issue and your foot would be on the brake anyway. MarkIn a crash your foot, leg, entire body may well be jammed under the dash on top of the accelerator peddle.
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--- Begin Message ---I'll be in the same boat you are, as soon as I get my adapter plate and can start building the car. I bought a Vicor Flatpac to play with. It's rated for 240 AC in and 15 DC out. They do make some units that are rated for over 300 volts input, I just haven't found one yet. --- karmann_electric <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 01:53:51 -0000 > From: "karmann_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: HV DC/DC > > When Googling DC/DCs for my 336V nominal nicad system, plenty of > options from manufacturers like Lambda, RO Associates, Vicor, etc. come > up, but I lack the expertise to create control circuitry. Only > MetricMind and ElectroAuto seem to offer 'plug n play' HV DC/DC units, > at two to seven times the cost of the little bricks aforementioned. > Now I'm willing to pay for what I need, and don't want to open the > old "designed for EV use costs $" debate, but my antique has minimal > 12V needs. A tailshaft pulley and alternator is looking attractive > once again, or just a big aux. battery... What are you HV DC guys out > there running? > TIA-Jay > www.karmanneclectric.blogspot.com > > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---This same subject came up before and I never saw where the discussion went. Are any of the clubs doing a safety awareness classes for emergency workers in their area with the owner's car as an example? Or was it just the policy for the emergency responder not to cut any wires? And how does that apply to a hybrid? --- Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > He did point out that he would be quite nervous > pulling/cutting you out of an EV which wasn't so > equipped to break the current as close to the > battery pack as possible during an accident. > __________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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--- Begin Message ---lyle sloan wrote: > Or was > it just the policy for the emergency responder not to > cut any wires? And how does that apply to a hybrid? I think it had something to do with us using orange cables.. ;)
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--- Begin Message ---On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 14:58:46 -0800, "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >I sent an email to the Clinton Library a few weeks ago, asking >whether we might include their site on evchargernews.com, and >what the specifics of the site were. I got no reply. I believe >I found mention of the EV charging parking spaces in the SF >Chronicle newspaper. Are you surprised? That "charging station" characterizes the entire administration - empty vacuous gestures designed to make some constituency feel good. That outlet wasn't put there to actually charge EVs. It was put there to garner press and discussion, something it has done admirably. Who knows? I might not even be hooked to power. IMO, of course. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---Come back and we'll discuss this AFTER you've suffered a serious wreck. Or even after you've witnessed a crash test. Even if your legs survive intact (unlikely given the so-called 'bolsters' (sic) now placed under the steering column to keep unbelted idiots from submarining), you won't have a clue as to where you are or what happened for at least a short period. As for "on the brakes" or not, have you paid any attention to your accelerator pedal linkage balance? Those evil car companies do but I bet you didn't. If the pedal end is heavier than the other side of the pivot, momentum will "mash" the pedal to the floor upon impact. Whether it returns or not depends on what happens next. A conventional engine will almost always be killed during a serious accident but unless a cable is cut, an EV's motor probably won't be. Even if a few battery cases are cracked, the affected batteries will continue providing power for some time, especially AGMs. Stunned driver, pedal to the floor and a wrecked car do not a happy combination make. I think that an inertial/rollover switch is a vital piece of EV safety gear. Mine doesn't have one yet but it will have shortly. John On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:16:44 -0500, "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >But if you're wearing your seatbelt that shouldn't be an issue and your foot >would be on the brake anyway. Mark >> In a crash your foot, leg, entire body may well be jammed under the dash >on >> top of the accelerator peddle. --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---If odometer works fine for this, so be it. I was discussing principle, not implementation. A GPS most likely is overkill here. Victor Marvin Campbell wrote:I'm no engineer, but wouldn't it be simpler to have an onboard transmitter send your current odometer reading to a receiver at the pump (or charger!)? Marv
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--- Begin Message ---Hi, Lee Hart wrote:Yes, they really do draw current from the battery at a dead stop with the brakes on to simulate the behavior of an automatic transmission's "creep". Silly, isn't it? Conversely, people use creep on a hill to hold the car in place instead of using the brakes. This certainly wastes energy!I thought that doing this sort of thing is a great way to burn up your drive motor (or at least get it really hot inside)? Or is this something that only affects series DC systems?-- -Nick http://Go.DriveEV.com/ 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV ---------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---Don Cameron wrote:Tough decision. If you search the archives and the FAQ ( http://www.evparts.com/faq/ ) there is lots of discussion on this. I havemy reasons listed on my web site:http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_IndexDriveSystem.html Victoria, BC, CanadaSo do I: http://www.metricmind.com/qa.htm Victor
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--- Begin Message ---Hello David and everybody: It seems those US-Batteries US-145 are a bit smaller than those T-145s? And, I didn't see any AP (automotive posts) in their terminal line up. And yes, Trojan (well, the dealer) gave me a real hard time selling AP type T-145s and wanted me to pay a 10% surcharge (and a six week wait). That is why I wasted my money on those friggin' NAPA floodies in the first place. Those NAPAs are kind of funny though. They hold up great for about the first 5 or 6 miles, than you can actually see the voltage constantly going down (@ about 180 A), from 109 V (120 V nominal) all the way down to 92 or so, all that happens within another 6 or 7 Miles. Even the battery charge meter (Curtis) can't hold up and displays more than 1/2 full when voltage has dropped to 92 V under load. I reckon that six minute measuring time interval is too short to keep up with those NAPAs. Whatever, guess I'll have to bite the bullet. Michaela > US Battery will fit whatever style post you want to the batteries you > order. > I like L posts, most folks here like automotive posts. Whatever, they'll > ship it the way you want it. If you don't have an Interstate dealer > nearby, > they'll ship right to your door (for a fee of course).
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--- Begin Message ---I thought that doing this sort of thing is a great way to burn up your drive motor (or at least get it really hot inside)? Or is this something that only affects series DC systems?This does not seem to affect AC systems, at least not my 50kw water cooled system.Likewise you can really *creep* with AC. Not sure if DC can do the walk up an ice hill trick.Chris
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--- Begin Message ---Mark Freidberg writes: > > How bad can the Kaboom! get? Like a bomb that blows part with force, > or more like a case rupture but that basically remains in one piece? I had some NiCads literally blow up about three years ago. Photos are online at http://www.aracnet.com/~rmerwin/prizm/kaboom.html > Also, if hydrogen builds up in a battery box and ignites, is it more > like a fireball, or destructively explosive? In my case, it appears to have been some of both. The last photo in the link above shows the interior of a module, and you can see the plates folded sideways. The other photos show generalized scorch marks that I assume are from the hydrogen burning. > Have such incidents happened to EVers in the past 10-20 years? See above. Ralph
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--- Begin Message ---> I bought a Vicor Flatpac to play with. It's rated for > 240 AC in and 15 DC out. They do make some units that are rated for over 300 > volts input, I just haven't found one yet. Buy this Vicor 330v-24vDC 200watt 1st gen. converter: http://tinyurl.com/8pory You can adjust the Vicor converters from +110 to 50% of rated output, so this converter would be adjustable to your 15vDC as needed. Its input rating is 200-400vDC with 170v brownout and 425v transient ratings. For $12.99 + shipping, I'd say you have a deal...oh yeah, you'll need a heatsink and a fan too. -Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
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--- Begin Message ---Freudian slip?Who knows? I might not even be hooked to power. IMO, of course. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---Osmo Sarin wrote:I got the 15 kW Siemens motor for my Peugeot 206 project. The motor shaft is splined inside:http://www.saunalahti.fi/~osarin/This is Siemens 1LH5118 motor you have.I have intended to keep the flywheel and the clutch, but don´t know what is the best way to attach the flywheel to the motor shaft. I also got an interesting idea (new to me at least) from HEC in Holland, who sold the motor, for a clutchless design to avoid the flywheel problem. It might help Don Cameron and other "clutchless guys" to shift on the fly. Or maybe it´s just old news.My options:1. To use a bolt to screw a shaft coupler into the head of the motor shaft a la Victor: http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/coupler4.jpg . How to prevent the shaft rotating when drilling? Have to make a hollow tool first (the hole is for drilling) that locks into the splines maybe.If you want to go clutchless, so as we did for Gary Graunke's Insight: he uses similar 5105WS12 motor with involuted spline as well: http://www.metricmind.com/images/5105shaft.jpg So I came up with coupler for his transmission: Drawing http://www.metricmind.com/misc/insight_coupler.gif It is inserted into the motor shaft, and other end - onto the transmission input shaft. It freely floats axially, but can't go anywhere so doesn't need any additional fixing. Gary custom made this adapter, here is what the coupler look like (his site): http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/P0001781.JPG fit: http://ev.whitecape.org/insight/P0001782.JPG Transmission shaft goes directly into this. No clutch. He can comment how well this works but I believe there are no complaints. In fact this is now it meant to mate in OEM Opel Astra Impuls: http://www.metricmind.com/images/opel.jpg (actually tranny input shaft in this car directly mesh with motor shaft's splines, but you wouldn't expect a Japanese transmission to mate with German motor directly :-) Victor
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--- Begin Message ---29.11.2005 kello 16:16, STEVE CLUNN kirjoitti:You could spin the motor while drilling , ( opposite way then drill is trunning )Now why didn´t I figure that out... But I´d still have to let a machine shop do the drilling (I don´t have the equipment nor the skills). The question is then how to make the motor run there in the shop, at a right speed and not warming too much.Now using the spline form the clutch ( take a old clutch and cut everthing off , so you just have a hub with the spline inside) find a way to attach this to your shaft/coupler .Good idea -if the result is accurate enough. I have to ask the price of your C. option first - I´d rather have this thing done properly even if it costs some.Oh yes how about a CC . have a machine shop make a shaft with you motor spline on one end and your tranny spline on the other. Now how much would that cost? :-)Steve ClunnThanks Steve! Osmo
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--- Begin Message ---Has anyone got any comments on the video here: http://www.21ponies.com/ ?
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--- Begin Message ---http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4594446567
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--- Begin Message ---http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=459297100
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--- Begin Message ---Hadn't seen one of these before: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4594510590 Doesn't list the ratios.
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--- Begin Message ---http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4592984274
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--- Begin Message --- Get in touch with Bob Batson EV-America.com he has a kit for the s-10 that includes the hinges lifts and directions.Tom----- Original Message ----- From: "arthur marquardt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 11:44 PM Subject: Solectria Tilt bed liftDoes anyone know where people get their tilt bed lifts that you see on so many pickup truck EV's? Did people buy them or did they build them themselves and if so how? I am now the proud owner of a working Solectria E-10 and would like to make it easier to get to the batteries in back. It is hard to lift the bed up by myself it is already hinged and has a safety support to hold it up once it gets there. The vehicle came without the four bolts (metric) which hold down the bed in front. Also, is there any clever quick disconnect latching scheme for an S-10 bed?Art -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.9/185 - Release Date: 11/28/2005
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--- Begin Message ---On Nov 29, 2005, at 4:19 PM, David Dymaxion wrote:Do they really run power through the motor at a stop with the brakes on? Or do they start creeping when you release the brakes?The first generation Prius does apply creep power under light brake force when stopped. If you press just a little bit harder it turns off the power. That point is not very hard either, about what it would take to hold the car on a 10% grade in neutral (my guess.)Paul "neon" G.
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--- Begin Message --- Check Ebay -- I've passed on quite a few Vicor modules because their input was 300 VDC nominal.Here's one: 300 VDC, 135W in 12 VDC, 100W out $7.99 "buy it now" http://cgi.ebay.com/Vicor-DC-DC-Converter-Model-VI-J61-EW_W0QQitemZ7545559637QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://tinyurl.com/c7cpt Naturally, it's "as-is no warranty," but for eight bucks ... Make sure they're not a seller that gouges on shipping. Dave Cover wrote:I'll be in the same boat you are, as soon as I get my adapter plate and can start building the car. I bought a Vicor Flatpac to play with. It's rated for 240 AC in and 15 DC out. They do make some units that are rated for over 300 volts input, I just haven't found one yet. --- karmann_electric <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 01:53:51 -0000 From: "karmann_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: HV DC/DCWhen Googling DC/DCs for my 336V nominal nicad system, plenty of options from manufacturers like Lambda, RO Associates, Vicor, etc. come up, but I lack the expertise to create control circuitry. Only MetricMind and ElectroAuto seem to offer 'plug n play' HV DC/DC units, at two to seven times the cost of the little bricks aforementioned. Now I'm willing to pay for what I need, and don't want to open the old "designed for EV use costs $" debate, but my antique has minimal 12V needs. A tailshaft pulley and alternator is looking attractive once again, or just a big aux. battery... What are you HV DC guys out there running?TIA-Jay www.karmanneclectric.blogspot.com
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--- Begin Message ---Have the gel cells worked fine in the Evcorts or were there significant problems? Also the Solectria Forces use 12 volt gel cells and it sounds like that application has worked out fine, and owners generally have been replacing packs with more gel cells rather then AGMs with BMS. Mark Freidberg David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The Evcorts used 6v golf car gel batteries. They aren't too common among hobbyist EVs. I'm not sure of all the reasons, but two might be : 1. Most folks who use golf car batteries are looking for the lowest cost per mile. 2. Most folks who use VRR batteries want low vehicle weight and high system voltage. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EV List Assistant Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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--- Begin Message ---Hi Craig, So you are basically talking about doing a series/parallel switch. You could just do this with two strings of batteries. Actually, batteries would probably work better since they wouldn't sag like capacitors, and they would be MUCH cheaper. Then again, if your (modern) controller can handle the 2x voltage, why not just run it at that level all the time? You will have half the current for the same power output, and 1/4 the losses due to resistance. Then again, it would be very fun to have a button labelled "Very Fast" that did the parallel to series swap. Actually, with my very first EV (sorta) - a Tamiya R/C car (the Grasshopper) - I put a series/parallel switch and two batteries. When the speed controller turned all the way on, it pressed a microswitch that changed from 7.2V to 14.4V, and boy did that little car take off. Completely uncontrollable on the dirt, but amazingly fun on the road. I picked it up from my parents' place a few weeks ago, cleaned it up a bit, put some new batteries in and it still goes (even in Very Fast mode :-). Mark > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mueller, Craig M > Sent: Wednesday, 30 November 2005 5:52 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Switching Capacitor Circuit > > > Somehow, I'm guessing this one has gone around before, but the last > thread I found in the archives was 2001, so here goes... > > Is it possible to set up a bank of capacitors to equalize to the main > traction pack voltage (e.g. 2 parallel strings of 120v) and > then become > isolated during the acceleration phase and switched into a higher > voltage (e.g. setting two parallel 120v banks to a series bank - 240v) > for acceleration improvement without diminishing the life of the > batteries. > > In total, if this is possible, it may be a great solution for > longevity > + performance. I expect the enclosure for the caps would be critical > (safety), and have yet to calculate to see if the required capacitance > would yeild a trailer to haul the circuit...or if caps are > made to pass > 400+ amps within a reasonable budget. I did run across the following > regarding 'Ultra Capacitors'... > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-capacitor > > The article mentions "sophisticated electronic control and switching > equipment" - which may be the reason we don't hear of this more in > practical applications (EE's - please explain if this is true). In my > simplified ideal, I figure a soft-start circuit current limited to X > amps is all that's needed with a couple micro switches and > contactors...making a 'merge circuit' and leaving the fine > speed control > to the standard controller. > > Thanks in advance! > > Craig > Electric Daytona > http://www.geocities.com/cmmuell/ > >
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--- Begin Message ---So who is the guy selling it? What is his/her relationship with commutercars? Mark > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, 30 November 2005 5:25 PM > To: EV Discussion List > Subject: Tango fo sale on eBay (not built yet) > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item= > 4594446567 > >
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--- Begin Message ---This question should be popular with the California EV owners: My electric utility provider to my residence has been less than 100% reliable. I have some health related issues (Diabetic/must keep insulin cold). Instead of an ICE powered generator, if I were to install a voltage inverter on my EV to power AC appliances, how many amps would my EV provide to these appliances? Or do I need an inverter? How or where in the circuit might I place a 110V AC outlet? What is the total wattage or amps I can get off of 102 volt traction pack to power AC appliances? Or how would I set up a string of batteries in my cellar for battery back up to my residential power? Just thinking of alternatives to an expensive, noisy, smelly traditional gasoline fueled generator. Don Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]><<attachment: MSN_dudes.jpg>>
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--- Begin Message ---All,Lawless Industries is looking for a full-time project engineer that lives in or near Youngstown, Ohio, or is willing to relocate here. Because we are a small company the job description includes, but is not strictly limited to, the following:Mechanical and electrical design, engineering, and drawing, (Autocad 2 and 3 D). ME and/or EE certification not required but a plus.Vehicle design.Hands-on production of a wide variety of EV's, drive systems, and chassis.Marketing duties such as print and web advertising design. Development of operational, technical, and maintenance manuals. Must be passionate about building the best specialty ev's in the world.In short, I am looking for someone that can do it all, with style and class.We manufacture top quality, professional ev's, drives systems, and chassis for Fortune class companies such as:Disney Global, GM, Anheuser Busch, Viacom, to name a few. We currently have several exciting projects for a variety of industries. Opportunity is now. Please send resume to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Shawn Lawless Lawless Industries Ltd 8431 South Ave Poland, OH 44514
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--- Begin Message ---I would think that your regular DC/DC converter could be used and then just run a 2000W AC inverter off of that. -----Original Message----- From: Don Davidson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 7:17 AM To: EV_Discussion_Group Subject: House Power This question should be popular with the California EV owners: My electric utility provider to my residence has been less than 100% reliable. I have some health related issues (Diabetic/must keep insulin cold). Instead of an ICE powered generator, if I were to install a voltage inverter on my EV to power AC appliances, how many amps would my EV provide to these appliances? Or do I need an inverter? How or where in the circuit might I place a 110V AC outlet? What is the total wattage or amps I can get off of 102 volt traction pack to power AC appliances? Or how would I set up a string of batteries in my cellar for battery back up to my residential power? Just thinking of alternatives to an expensive, noisy, smelly traditional gasoline fueled generator. Don Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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--- Begin Message ---Tom Carpenter - The bed on my 1991 Isuzu tilts but it is merely hinged in the rear and the power to tilt is MANUAL. It's a grunt but not too bad.... Ross Tom Carpenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Get in touch with Bob Batson EV-America.com he has a kit for the s-10 that includes the hinges lifts and directions. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "arthur marquardt" To: Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 11:44 PM Subject: Solectria Tilt bed lift > Does anyone know where people get their tilt bed lifts that you see on so > many pickup truck EV's? > Did people buy them or did they build them themselves and if so how? I am > now the proud owner of a working Solectria E-10 and would like to make it > easier to get to the batteries in back. It is hard to lift the bed up by > myself it is already hinged and has a safety support to hold it up once it > gets there. The vehicle came without the four bolts (metric) which hold > down the bed in front. Also, is there any clever quick disconnect latching > scheme for an S-10 bed? > > Art > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.9/185 - Release Date: 11/28/2005 > > --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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