EV Digest 6571
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions (long, sorry)
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Clutch VS clutchless
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Otmar Ebenhoech on Peak Moment TV
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Clutch VS clutchless
by "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Yahoo single message archive is down
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Charging at Train Stations
by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Optima Charging
by fred whitridge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Clutch VS clutchless in Geo Metros?
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Clutch VS clutchless
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) 5-mph bumper removal
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: battery posts
by "Nawaz Qureshi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Clutch VS clutchless in Geo Metros?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: 5-mph bumper removal
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: 5-mph bumper removal
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cheap DC-motors
by Pascal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 5-mph bumper removal
by Jeff Mccabe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) EV Motorcycle on eBay
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) DC motors on eBay
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Precharge Resistor/Capacitor Decay Time
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: ZAP claims to ship fast charger
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: 5-mph bumper removal
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Re: DC motors on eBay
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Jim,
The way you're talking man we would think you gave birth to the thing ;-P
Hey at least its not a blown comm or a cracked shaft. A cracked shaft would
ruin your entire day. John would be too ashamed to
even go home with one of those }:-) Just some little old brush rigging. Don't
think your baby let anyone down though. Hell, Tim
probably still won the race :-O (I haven't heard back on that one though).
New records too, and there's plenty of daylight left
in the season to find those 11's. Probably some motorhead was out there
sprinkling metal flakes on the track, or was pixie dust?
You know, the stuff Santa uses for his reindeer. John told you the motors were
laughing did he?? Hey can you put a motor on a
wheel barrow??
Standing by for more details.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jim Husted
> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 5:00 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
>
>
> Hey Rod, Mike
>
> THAT KLINGON BASTARD KILLED MY MOTOR!
> To top it off he calls me with video guys there! I
> thought he was just yanking my chain (ya you guys
> think I'm the mean one) so there is probably audio of
> me saying "come on John, you got to be, bleep,
> debleeping, bleep, bleep, just bleeping, bleep, what?
> ohhhh no, bleep bleep, or something like that, being
> he probably had me on SPEAKER PHONE LMAO 8^o
>
> What the hell did I just say today, yaya do it a
> hundred times blah, blah but that 101st is a bitch,
> LMAO! Honest to God I could feel it, I let my gaurd
> down 8^(
> You under estimate those Hawker Tyson fights and well
> EVerything goes okay the first few rounds and then
> Wham, you're missing a piece of your ear, LMAO
> (brushring ear that is)! Ohhh crap what can you do.
> You armor them up and send them to battle as God's
> green solders and well some die by the sword 8^(
>
> I kept thinking about what Otmar said about the
> Woodburn Flashover... Per memory.
> Keeping the motors from seeing 160,170 volts and it
> would pevent the arc-over but less on a new pack, not
> really sure exactly why, but I've been thinking about
> it! BTW the only reason I told him to crank it up is
> BECAUSE HE JUST TOLD ME THE MOTORS WERE LAUGHING AT
> THAT VOLTAGE!!! and so I let my gaurd down, I let the
> team down 8^(
>
> Alas, all is not dark for the Siamese8 lives! But all
> news is not great! John reports what looks like chips
> of milky white platic coming from out of the rear
> half. It seems that in obeying the whip of it's
> master (John "I like to break shit" Wayland) and
> driver (Tim "cook em till their done" Brehm") it is
> begining to overheat and melt the mylar (of which the
> winding paper is semi-made of) as it gives it's all in
> effort to obey Johns (I'll just die if I don't get
> into the 11's) wishes! Anyway I could feel it... Ask
> John, I called him today, I rarely if EVer do...
>
> Wounded from battle White Zombie limping on 15 springs
> stalked silently back to it's lair to fight another
> day. Luckily and hopefully the damage looks far worse
> than it ends up being. I'll hopefully get some more
> input on how Killacycles new spring gaurds help
> protect those springs soon. Hey Bill what days you
> racing?? I won't leave me computer the whole damn day
> man, I promise! Shit I was only gone today for a few
> minutes, just turned away really...
>
> I can't help wonder if it's the same for a gasser
> motor guy? I'd think that anyone who put their time
> into it would have some bumout if it blewup during a
> run, any run. You can laugh all you want to, all the
> craftmanship to hell! it's my mother henning that
> fights off that damn anti-EV bastard that just
> snatched the 11's right out of WZ's jaws! Wow that
> almost sounds like Lawrence's one post, LMAO!! 8^o
>
> Luckily I've been working on tougher armor since I
> last saw my babies, being they were my first ones
> EVer. The timing though sucks wad for me. I got
> people that are probably ready to kick me in the balls
> right now! First it was Massey, and now John wants to
> just jump to the front of the line.
>
> I feel like telling him to piss off and get in line,
> seasons over for you buddy, but the thought of John
> rushing my baby to some H.A.C.K. Electric abortion
> clinic frankly turns my stomach! I can see it now...
> No one does it like H.A.C.K. across WZ musculine pure
> white body. Ohh ya John makes sure those sponsor
> stickers come off reallll easy 8^o
> Yep like yesterdays news. Snip from history page...
> <Early 07 season>
> < H.A.C.K. Electric creates new Biamese8 motor, blah,
> blah,> LMAO!!
>
> Unlike John, I admit I am new to the war and my
> battles are still few, so the taste of defeat is cold
> and bitter and hard to swallow like shards of glass.
> So although I choose to laugh and learn it stings just
> the same. Ya even old bitter list yelling motor guys
> bleed. This particular flashover is bitter-sweet as a
> 2 dollar part probably cost John from getting into the
> 11's today.
>
> So in trying to do to EVerything I can <quivering
> chin> to be that "glass 1/2 full" kinda guy I am 8^}
> I'd like to think that it at least lead us to that
> fact that the Siamese8 was bleeding internaly without
> exterior signs. I'll need to get it in to see how
> everythings looking for details. Although the batts
> like heating up we got to find ways to cool the motor
> at the pit between runs. I told John he might rig up
> a vent blower to use while the batts charge.
>
> You guys remember my wheel barrow story?? I guess I
> should have added the life span of a guy pushing a
> wheelbarrow on crack! Little shorter life, but that
> sucker sure does move the dirt, LMAO! All eager to
> please! even if his mylars all melting out of his guts
> ...I got to go now 8^(
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
> See James, I take my lumps to! 8^P
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about a CO2 fire extinguisher after every run. You could set it to go off
right at the finish line. That should give the
same sensation to the crowd without the expense of burning motors }:-)
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Rod Hower
> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 6:04 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
>
>
> >ways to cool the motor
> >at the pit between runs. I told John he might rig up
> >a vent blower to use while the batts charge.
> You're the best man for the job figuring out what blew
> up and I'm sure you'll make it much better next time
> (you kind of remind me of the 300 spartan guys
> fighting the Persians (Wayland)) Anyhow, no offense
> to John, just trying to add humor at Jim's expense!
> If you need a kick ass blower, let me know, I'll send
> one out free of charge that can blow off the carbon
> dust. Ametek has a wide range of blowers that will
> work at 12Vdc up to 240Vac and also 320Vdc input.
> Just let me know what you need. The 12.3" blower with
> 240Vac or 320Vdc will blow your ears off and make the
> situation much cooler :-)
> Rod
> --- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hey Rod, Mike
> >
> > THAT KLINGON BASTARD KILLED MY MOTOR!
> > To top it off he calls me with video guys there! I
> > thought he was just yanking my chain (ya you guys
> > think I'm the mean one) so there is probably audio
> > of
> > me saying "come on John, you got to be, bleep,
> > debleeping, bleep, bleep, just bleeping, bleep,
> > what?
> > ohhhh no, bleep bleep, or something like that, being
> > he probably had me on SPEAKER PHONE LMAO 8^o
> >
> > What the hell did I just say today, yaya do it a
> > hundred times blah, blah but that 101st is a bitch,
> > LMAO! Honest to God I could feel it, I let my gaurd
> > down 8^(
> > You under estimate those Hawker Tyson fights and
> > well
> > EVerything goes okay the first few rounds and then
> > Wham, you're missing a piece of your ear, LMAO
> > (brushring ear that is)! Ohhh crap what can you do.
> >
> > You armor them up and send them to battle as God's
> > green solders and well some die by the sword 8^(
> >
> > I kept thinking about what Otmar said about the
> > Woodburn Flashover... Per memory.
> > Keeping the motors from seeing 160,170 volts and it
> > would pevent the arc-over but less on a new pack,
> > not
> > really sure exactly why, but I've been thinking
> > about
> > it! BTW the only reason I told him to crank it up
> > is
> > BECAUSE HE JUST TOLD ME THE MOTORS WERE LAUGHING AT
> > THAT VOLTAGE!!! and so I let my gaurd down, I let
> > the
> > team down 8^(
> >
> > Alas, all is not dark for the Siamese8 lives! But
> > all
> > news is not great! John reports what looks like
> > chips
> > of milky white platic coming from out of the rear
> > half. It seems that in obeying the whip of it's
> > master (John "I like to break shit" Wayland) and
> > driver (Tim "cook em till their done" Brehm") it is
> > begining to overheat and melt the mylar (of which
> > the
> > winding paper is semi-made of) as it gives it's all
> > in
> > effort to obey Johns (I'll just die if I don't get
> > into the 11's) wishes! Anyway I could feel it...
> > Ask
> > John, I called him today, I rarely if EVer do...
> >
> > Wounded from battle White Zombie limping on 15
> > springs
> > stalked silently back to it's lair to fight another
> > day. Luckily and hopefully the damage looks far
> > worse
> > than it ends up being. I'll hopefully get some more
> > input on how Killacycles new spring gaurds help
> > protect those springs soon. Hey Bill what days you
> > racing?? I won't leave me computer the whole damn
> > day
> > man, I promise! Shit I was only gone today for a
> > few
> > minutes, just turned away really...
> >
> > I can't help wonder if it's the same for a gasser
> > motor guy? I'd think that anyone who put their time
> > into it would have some bumout if it blewup during a
> > run, any run. You can laugh all you want to, all
> > the
> > craftmanship to hell! it's my mother henning that
> > fights off that damn anti-EV bastard that just
> > snatched the 11's right out of WZ's jaws! Wow that
> > almost sounds like Lawrence's one post, LMAO!! 8^o
> >
> > Luckily I've been working on tougher armor since I
> > last saw my babies, being they were my first ones
> > EVer. The timing though sucks wad for me. I got
> > people that are probably ready to kick me in the
> > balls
> > right now! First it was Massey, and now John wants
> > to
> > just jump to the front of the line.
> >
> > I feel like telling him to piss off and get in line,
> > seasons over for you buddy, but the thought of John
> > rushing my baby to some H.A.C.K. Electric abortion
> > clinic frankly turns my stomach! I can see it
> > now...
> > No one does it like H.A.C.K. across WZ musculine
> > pure
> > white body. Ohh ya John makes sure those sponsor
> > stickers come off reallll easy 8^o
> > Yep like yesterdays news. Snip from history page...
> > <Early 07 season>
> > < H.A.C.K. Electric creates new Biamese8 motor,
> > blah,
> > blah,> LMAO!!
> >
> > Unlike John, I admit I am new to the war and my
> > battles are still few, so the taste of defeat is
> > cold
> > and bitter and hard to swallow like shards of glass.
> >
> > So although I choose to laugh and learn it stings
> > just
> > the same. Ya even old bitter list yelling motor
> > guys
> > bleed. This particular flashover is bitter-sweet as
> > a
> > 2 dollar part probably cost John from getting into
> > the
> > 11's today.
> >
> > So in trying to do to EVerything I can <quivering
> > chin> to be that "glass 1/2 full" kinda guy I am 8^}
> >
> > I'd like to think that it at least lead us to that
> > fact that the Siamese8 was bleeding internaly
> > without
> > exterior signs. I'll need to get it in to see how
> > everythings looking for details. Although the batts
> > like heating up we got to find ways to cool the
> > motor
> > at the pit between runs. I told John he might rig
> > up
> > a vent blower to use while the batts charge.
> >
> > You guys remember my wheel barrow story?? I guess I
> > should have added the life span of a guy pushing a
> > wheelbarrow on crack! Little shorter life, but that
> > sucker sure does move the dirt, LMAO! All eager to
> > please! even if his mylars all melting out of his
> > guts
> > ...I got to go now 8^(
> >
> > Jim Husted
> > Hi-Torque Electric
> >
> > See James, I take my lumps to! 8^P
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
> > sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
> > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's important to get an understanding of LED ratings.
mcd ratings is a measure of luminous flux per over a certain angle. The
point is that an LED which is highly focused like the LED flashlights
have far higher mcd figures than less focused devices which produce the
same total light power- or even have exactly the same emitter chip
inside them, just a different plastic case.
In taillights it may be a bad idea to have a highly focused LED which is
very bright over 10 degrees straight behind and rolls off quickly
outside that angle. If you're not straight behind them, you won't be
able to see much except for the light scattered by the plastic lens of
the taillight.
As far as I can see, the LEDs with really wide dispersal patterns, like
+/- 45 deg (90 deg total) would be appropriate. However on the spec
sheet they have deceptively low mcd ratings even when the total optical
power is high. Unfortunately people keep seeing the "10,000 mcd" highly
focused LEDs on the mistaken idea that they're putting out more light.
Also LED ratings are definitely a bit complicated in terms of power vs
reliability. An LED which puts out 5000 mcd at 20mA and can do so
indefinitely at more or less normal enclosure temperatures with little
degradation over 10,000 hrs can also be cranked up to 50mA and put out
10,000 mcd, but it'll overheat in short order and the die will degrade
quickly.
Some vendors have differing standards for the power levels they
advertise. Also IIRC Digikey's been listing them by mcd at a standard
20mA- regardless of the power the package is actually capable of handling.
The Superflux LED packages really are great BTW. Very wide, very high
total optical power, yet quite cheap really. The pins are thermal
stakes, it's a much superior design to the traditional T1 3/4 5mm LED
package.
Danny
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 3/16/2007 2:45:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I've been buying my LEDs off of eBay. Commonly you'll find auctions for 20
to 50 for about $15 to
$20, including shipping. They all seem to come out of Hong Kong, and they do
come by slow boat.
There are a lot of colors and brightnesses available. I've stayed away from
the Luxeon for now,
too expensive. I'm waiting for some 10mm 60k mcd LEDs that I'm going to use
for amber running
lights. I also have some 135k mcd white LEDs on order. I need to experiment
with how many I need
to use to equal the original bulb.
I buy this way also.... I have NOT found anything that would safely and
adequately replace a good H-4 headlamp for a vehicle that can go 50 mph or
more....
I AM running "halogen lamp replacement" LED bulbs (31 LEDs in each lamp X2
lamps) on my three wheeler but that essentially a NEV, rarely getting up over
30 MPH.
Matt Parkhouse
Colorado Springs, CO
BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range
1972 VW Van - to be converted this year!
************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
About 1 lb. The adapter,button flywheel clutch is together less than
12lb and less than 7" diameter (I OverBuilt the adapter, 5-1/4 triple
plate tilton)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I run a 64bit os and that flash wrapped navigator to a youtube video
gives my browser a headache (and me too).
So I use youtube-dl.py http://www.arrakis.es/~rggi3/youtube-dl/
It just saves .flv file to my hardrive where my player can get at it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would hesitate, however, to recommend it for all modest performance
street EVs. Some transmissions take the extra load of shifting the
motor armature better than others (and a smaller motors can only help
here too.) It looks like the LeCar and the VW Beetle (air cooled)
transaxle take the workout quite well.
If you could program the controller to RPM-match, should it be
possible to shift reasonably quickly with hardly any load on the
synchros? It seems to me that some motors should be able to do
this? 'It's only software'.... :-)
While driving calculate vehicle speed to motor speed ratio.
You know what gear it's in. Shift up - let go of gas, motor
speed drops. Controller runs motor speed at the next higher gear
vehicle speed to motor speed ratio. To shift down - tap gas
pedal right after slipping out of gear, and it controls motor
speed to next lower gear (if no over-rev danger). Maybe?
-Dale
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I regret to announce that the Yahoo single message archive is currently (and
probably permanently) down. See the forwarded message below from the
individual who created that archive, Bruce Parmenter.
SJSU is in the process of converting its lists to Mailman processing.
Mailman provides builtin support for archiving and has hooks for Mhonarc. I'll
inquire about what we may be able to do with this archiving when the
transition takes place.
In the meantime, please use one of the primary digest archives :
http://www.mail-archive.com/ev@listproc.sjsu.edu/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/
I'll remove the link to the dead archive from the evdl.org support pages.
Sorry for the inconvenience, and thanks for your understanding. If you have
thoughts or suggestions that you'd like to discuss with me by email, please
send a PRIVATE email message to the address you'll find at the bottom of
this page :
http://www.evdl.org/help/
David
= = =
Forwarded message from Bruce Parmenter :
> Since:
>
> -so many try to join the archive when it states they are
> not allowed,
>
> -it causes confusion to which witch is which,
>
> -now not all POSTs are listed, plus
>
> -when you do click on a POST, yahoo states the message is
> unavailable,
>
> I have changed the settings of the group to disable it.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here in Maryland, I've obtained permission from my local Metro station as
well as the adjoining county parking garage to plug in.
There are no "charging stations" per se, there are only low amperage 110v
maintenance outlets placed at regular intervals throughout the garages. The
spots are not reserved for EV's but the chargers I've used have never
exceeded the rated amperage of the outlets so they've served me well.
Rich A.
'74 Beetle
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roderick Wilde
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 9:06 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Charging at Train Stations
Do any of you know of any train stations around the country that allow their
commuters to charge their electric vehicles while using the train to commute
to and from work? I do remember the now defunct San Francisco station car
project but is there anything out there for the regular guy with an EV?
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft Office
Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings:
After a couple of year hiatus, caused by a NiZn battery fire in my 1985
VW Cabrio, I am desperate to get the car back on the road. Driving the
wife's Prius and our Escape just aren't giving me enough EV grin!
I've been reading the list and have checked the archive and googled but
haven't seen much discussion on NREL's recommended "current interrupt"
charging algorithm of 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off during the bulk
charge phase. I did find this on the BatteriesAreUs website which
sounds similar:
"We recommend the following charging procedure for a 34, 34/78, 75/35,
and 6v:
1) Charge the battery A MINIMUM OF 100 amps for 15 mins ( @ 14.5+ volts)
a) Let battery and charger cool for 15 mins
2) Repeat step one at least four times - after letting battery cool 15
mins after each charge
3) Charge at 2-10 amps (trickle / automatic) for 24 hours minimum
4) Test the battery
5) D31 batteries: repeat each step again"
Anybody got any other favorite Optima charging algorithm's? I was using
constant current up to 14.2 volts, wait until amperage is below 1.5 amps
and then do an hour of overcharge at 1 amp letting the voltage wander
where it may.
Victor: would my Brusa mind be turned on and off every 5 seconds? will
I have to do this with outside control or is there some way to do it
with its own programming?
Thanks.
--
Fred Whitridge
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have an early Metro (86) that was converted clutchless by someone else,
and it seems to be fine. Shifting is no problem, if done properly.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darin - at - metrompg.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch VS clutchless in Geo Metros?
> I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience about going clutchless
> with their Geo Metro / Suzukiclone conversion.
>
> These cars are notorious for having weak & crunchy synchros. In ICE
> form, even with the clutch, if you shift quickly, it's not hard to grind
> the gears (particularly 1-2 upshifts and 3-2 downshifts).
>
> We went clutchless for Project ForkenSwift (Joe Sixpack Metro), but it
> hasn't been driven yet...
>
> Darin
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/725 - Release Date: 3/17/2007
12:33 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not on all vehicles - I don't have one on my Datsun KingCab conversion, and
don't see any need for one.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch VS clutchless
> Doesn't the tranny need a pilot bushing in the motor?
> I don't see one in your picture?
> --- JOHN P SWEENEY <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Gang,
> > I now have a definitive answer for clutch VS
> > clutch less in my Fiero conversion. When I
> > originally built the Fiero I retained the clutch and
> > flywheel and drove it that way until recently. I
> > just obtained a hub from EV-Blue to directly couple
> > the Warp 8 motor to the Fiero 5 speed.
> > (Thanks EV_Blue) The hub replaced a 40# flywheel and
> > clutch assembly with a 4# hub. The installation was
> > straightforward and went without incident. Now for
> > the final analysis---:
> >
> > Wow I really like it. The Fiero shifts
> > effortlessly, no hint of grinding. Without the added
> > rotational mass of the clutch & flywheel the
> > syncro's are more than adequate. Just let off on the
> > go pedal and shift to the next gear (up or down).
> > Power shifting of course is out of the question but
> > that is not my style of driving anyway. The motor
> > seems quieter and a little more snappy. I would not
> > suggest that this setup not be used with a
> > controller that does not have RPM limits, without
> > the rotational mass of the flywheel clutch assembly
> > applying the throttle for more than just a fraction
> > of a second will surely result in the motor
> > spontaneously disassembling itself.
> >
> > I know you are wondering what on earth someone
> > would want to swap out a perfectly functional clutch
> > system for direct drive so I'll explain. The Fiero
> > is a transverse mounted mid engine car with the
> > flywheel clutch assembly directly behind the drivers
> > back. The stock Fiero engine falls on its face at
> > 4500 to 5000 RPM, the WARP 8" motor red lines at
> > 8000 RPM. Having had a flywheel explode in a car
> > previously I don't relish the thought of that
> > happening directly in line with my spine.
> >
> >
> > Pat Sweeney
> > KICKGAS Fiero
> > E-Recumbent Bike
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/725 - Release Date: 3/17/2007
12:33 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was wondering if anyone has any experience or insight into the
consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my Fiat 124 and
replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I guesstimate they weigh at
least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by replacing them with
the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that much but handling wise
the weight is in the worst possible place and they're ugly.
What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't intend to insure
the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the insurance company
will still try to use the fact that I didn't have the original bumpers
as a way to get out of paying damages to the other vehicle in the
event of a fender bender.
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mick:
Please see the following link for USBMC terminals (posts).
http://www.usbattery.com/pages/usbterminals.htm
Sincerely
Nawaz Qureshi
-----Original Message-----
From: Mick Abraham [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 4:43 PM
To: 'EVList'
Subject: RE: battery posts
signemai1 Dave said:
I see I have a choice between an "S" post, or a high or low "L". I believe
I have the high "L" now.
Mick says: I don't know what an "S" post is, but I believe an "L" post looks
like a tiny tombstone with a hole through the face of it. If looked at from
the side this would have an "L" profile. A high L is just a taller
tombstone.
Dave said: "...should I have an "L", and if "L", should it be the high "L"?
Mick says: I think the high/low question depends on the width of your cable
lugs. If the pad on the lugs is broad, they'll bump on a low "L" terminal
unless you grind them down.
Mick Abraham
www.abrahamsolar.com
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
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* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, properly...whatever that entails.
Seems pretty simple, no magic numbers...welding scares
me, not sure how 60Kpsi weld is going to hold to
rotational torque.
--- "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have an early Metro (86) that was converted
> clutchless by someone else,
> and it seems to be fine. Shifting is no problem, if
> done properly.
>
> Joseph H. Strubhar
>
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Web: www.gremcoinc.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darin - at - metrompg.com"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Clutch VS clutchless in Geo Metros?
>
>
> > I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience
> about going clutchless
> > with their Geo Metro / Suzukiclone conversion.
> >
> > These cars are notorious for having weak & crunchy
> synchros. In ICE
> > form, even with the clutch, if you shift quickly,
> it's not hard to grind
> > the gears (particularly 1-2 upshifts and 3-2
> downshifts).
> >
> > We went clutchless for Project ForkenSwift (Joe
> Sixpack Metro), but it
> > hasn't been driven yet...
> >
> > Darin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/725 -
> Release Date: 3/17/2007
> 12:33 PM
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
can't you beef up the replacements with styrofoam?
--- Peter Gabrielsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has any experience or
> insight into the
> consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my
> Fiat 124 and
> replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I
> guesstimate they weigh at
> least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by
> replacing them with
> the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that much
> but handling wise
> the weight is in the worst possible place and
> they're ugly.
>
> What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't
> intend to insure
> the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the
> insurance company
> will still try to use the fact that I didn't have
> the original bumpers
> as a way to get out of paying damages to the other
> vehicle in the
> event of a fender bender.
>
>
> --
> www.electric-lemon.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure, but I'm more concerned with legal and financial consequences of
bumper removal, not so much about the sheet metal.
Here's a page showing how the car (and bumpers) evolved through the years.
http://www.spidercenter.com/history.html
On 3/19/07, mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
can't you beef up the replacements with styrofoam?
--- Peter Gabrielsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has any experience or
> insight into the
> consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my
> Fiat 124 and
> replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I
> guesstimate they weigh at
> least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by
> replacing them with
> the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that much
> but handling wise
> the weight is in the worst possible place and
> they're ugly.
>
> What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't
> intend to insure
> the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the
> insurance company
> will still try to use the fact that I didn't have
> the original bumpers
> as a way to get out of paying damages to the other
> vehicle in the
> event of a fender bender.
>
>
> --
> www.electric-lemon.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thx everyone for the info, my guess is that this also
applies for controllers, batteries and DC-DC
converters :)
Although I can find plenty of DC-motors on let's say
Ebay, the cheap price is in almost all cases rising
due to the shippingcosts to The Netherlands :(
So yet another question, on the Dutch site of Ebay
there are also some DC-motors (as well as a few
AC-motors), so what are the things to look for? Do I
check the voltage, or rpm's or is there something
else, (motor-wise speaking) I should check out with
the seller?
TIA
Pascal
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello ev-list members, this is my first post.
On my 928 Porsche conversion I replaced the 5.6 lb. pumpers shocks with
rigid aluminum mounts the weigh 3/4 lb. each. I was able to remove 20 lbs.
from both ends of the vehicle. I also lightened the inner fender supports with
allot of hole saw use to achieve this.
Jeff
Peter Gabrielsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Sure, but I'm more concerned with legal and financial consequences of
bumper removal, not so much about the sheet metal.
Here's a page showing how the car (and bumpers) evolved through the years.
http://www.spidercenter.com/history.html
On 3/19/07, mike golub wrote:
> can't you beef up the replacements with styrofoam?
>
> --- Peter Gabrielsson
> wrote:
>
> > I was wondering if anyone has any experience or
> > insight into the
> > consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my
> > Fiat 124 and
> > replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I
> > guesstimate they weigh at
> > least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by
> > replacing them with
> > the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that much
> > but handling wise
> > the weight is in the worst possible place and
> > they're ugly.
> >
> > What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't
> > intend to insure
> > the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the
> > insurance company
> > will still try to use the fact that I didn't have
> > the original bumpers
> > as a way to get out of paying damages to the other
> > vehicle in the
> > event of a fender bender.
> >
> >
> > --
> > www.electric-lemon.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
>
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
eBay item 140098278052
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
eBay item 110105010578
Two motors, 6.6 inch dia. Part # BU5-4001. Maybe ADC? Looks like long
stack, 3 pole bolts. Has DEH and output shaft. Might be good choice over
those golf cart motors.
Jeff
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Frank,
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but I think that you're wondering
how long it takes to charge a given capacitor with a given resistor.
The time constant for a series RC (resistive capacitive) circuit is R x
C (resistance multiplied by capacitance). This is NOT the time it takes
to charge the capacitor. It's the time it takes for the capacitor to
charge to about 1/3 the _current_ voltage difference.
Typically, five (5) time constants is considered "fully charged," as the
capacitor will be 99% charged at that point.
Example:
10,000 uF (.01F) capacitor bank, and a 100 ohm resistor:
.01F * 100ohms = 1 second
5 * 1 second = 5 seconds <-- This is how long it would take to charge
to > 99%
WRT to the "starter solenoind wire":
You could do this, but the "start" signal from the keyswitch is
momentary, and should _initiate_ the precharge, but not be a constant
enable, while a loss of the "run" signal would power down the controller.
Frank John wrote:
I've been thinking about the controller precharge question and was wondering if anyone knows (or can estimate) capacitor decay time for a Curtis 1231C controller? I'm wondering if I could simply use the OEM starter-solenoid wire to precharge?
TIA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger..
The NEC %80 rule only applies to presently installed equipment.
Plug in equipment is cleared up to the rating of the branch fuse or
breaker.
Like water heaters and furnaces.
Ranges by the way have mostly plug in receptacles. I believe that a Range
with all burners on and the oven at max heat will draw very close to 50 amps
of 240.
Again.. being a bit chicken results in a serious performance limit that is
not needed.
Running a 50 amp charger off a 50 amp breaker on a #6 gage contractor
installed branch circuit..aka one installed the right way, Is safe and to
the letter of the law.
And if you don't have a power factor corrected charger.. the breaker is
going to open anyways.
Ask any contractor.... they know.
And no I am not turning down the 50 amp limits of my products. They meet the
letter of the law. Here in the states anyways.
Rich Rudman
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Manzanita Micro
360-297-7383,
Cell 360-620-6266
Production shop 360-297-1660
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: ZAP claims to ship fast charger
> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> > Yea it could be a real product.
>
> I'm quite certain it is a real product. It sounds exactly like the eTec
> LSV-100 (100A, 10kW NEV/GSV/etc. opportunity charger):
>
> <http://www.etecevs.com/nev/index_frame_lsv-100.htm>
>
> > Again the Spec you posted... is Bull shit.
> > Not picking on you, I expect you are publishing what you read.
>
> People aren't reading carefully enough. It appears that two different
> chargers are being discussed here: the first line says that the charger
> "on" the vehicle can be configured for either 110V or 220V outlet; later
> the "new" charger is discussed that can deliver 100A/10kW into the
> vehicle, and it is specifically stated that *this* charger connects to
> either 240V 60A or 208V 50A 3-phase - nowhere does it claim that the new
> 100A/10kW charger accepts 110V.
>
> > 10Kw of 240 .....now we are talking normal stuff. 41 amp will
> > do it. A house hold RANGE outlet will do it. that's a 50 amp
> > U-14-50.
>
> Not legally it won't. 10kW into the batteries means 11.1kW from the
> 240V line at 90% efficiency, and that's just over 46A. NEC allows only
> drawing 80% of the circuit rating, or 40A on a 50A circuit. The LSV-100
> spec sheet indicates 48A max input @ 240V and 40A max @ 208V 3ph, which
> is why it calls for a 60A breaker on 240V and 50A on 208V (coinciding
> nicely with ZAP's new charger spec ;^).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter> I was wondering if anyone has any experience or insight into the
Peter> consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my Fiat 124 and
Peter> replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers...
Peter> What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't intend to
Peter> insure the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the
Peter> insurance company will still try to use the fact that I didn't
Peter> have the original bumpers as a way to get out of paying damages
Peter> to the other vehicle in the event of a fender bender.
I passed along the body of your note to the 914 gang. I think lots of folks
there replace their 75-76 bumpers with the pre-73 version. Follow along
here if you like:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=69547
--
Skip Montanaro - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - http://www.webfast.com/~skip/
"The hippies and the hipsters did some great stuff in the sixties,
but the geeks pulled their weight too." -- Billy Bragg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"PICK UP only"
Jeff Major wrote:
eBay item 110105010578
Two motors, 6.6 inch dia. Part # BU5-4001. Maybe ADC? Looks like long stack, 3 pole bolts. Has DEH and output shaft. Might be good choice over those golf cart motors.
Jeff
--- End Message ---
