Zeke;

J1772 does not have a common wire, just the two hots and ground. If you try
to use the ground for 120V you will trip the GFCI in the EVSE.  You will
probably need a 2-1 step down transformer to run your 120V loads.

I used a universal power supply to run all my interlocks and fans off 12V
when plugged in, so there is no need of 120V. Charging the 12V battery is
the part I have not gotten to yet. I suppose my PSU could trickle it so it
has enough to turn on the DC-DC contactor.


On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 7:11 PM, Zeke Yewdall <zyewd...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am doing a similar thing to the EV-bug that I'm upgrading -- Elcon charge
> (1500 watt) so it can run off a heavy gauge extension cord from a regular
> 120vac socket, and the J1772 socket for using the public charging stations
> in town.  I'll have a heavy duty DPDT toggle switch near the two inlets
> that will switch between the two, so either it will send 240vac down to the
> Elcon, or 120vac down, but not parallel the two inlets (to avoid live
> contacts on the unused inlet while using the other, the 120vac inlet is
> male contacts, so it's a bit less protected than the J1772).  The only
> question is exactly how to get 120vac out of the J1772 for the aux battery
> charger which is 120vac only, and the vent fans for the battery compartment
> which are 120vac, and the safety relay interlock, which has a 120vac coil.
>  I haven't gotten to that part yet...
>
> Zeke
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 7:43 PM, Mike Nickerson <m...@nickersonranch.com
> >wrote:
>
> > Hi Peter,
> >
> > I have a similar Elcon charger and went through the same questions.  The
> > charger can switch automatically to the voltage on its inputs.  It took
> > some
> > wincing the first time I plugged it into 220V, but it did work fine.  The
> > fans are noticeably faster and louder on 220V, since the charger power
> > output is higher.
> >
> > You could make an adapter cord, but I was nervous about having a cord
> that
> > had 220v pins on one end and 110v socket on the other end.  In the wrong
> > hands, this could be used to destroy 110V appliances.  Kept out of those
> > hands, it would work fine, though.
> >
> > I went a slightly different route.  I put a connector on the car that
> was a
> > little unusual.  I chose a 250V/30A twistlock connector.   It was a
> little
> > tricky finding the flanged connector I needed for the car, but I found it
> > mailorder. I wanted the male pins on the car so the cord would have the
> > female end.  The female twistlock was commonly available (Home Depot).
> >
> > I then made two pigtails.  One was 110V male to twistlock female.  The
> > other
> > was 220V male to twistlock female.  I keep the 220V cord at home and
> carry
> > the 110V cord in the car. Some care was required on the 220V cord.  The
> > cord
> > on the charger is positive, negative, and ground.  Luckily, my outlet was
> > wired that way also (hot, hot, ground).  If your outlet is wired as split
> > 110V circuits with a neutral, care would be required because the third
> wire
> > to the charger should be ground instead of neutral. The 220V plug and
> > socket
> > are different between hot, hot, neutral and hot, hot, ground.
> >
> > On my  installation, I wired the ground on the charger and outlet to
> > chassis
> > ground for safety.
> >
> > The flanged twistlock connector is shown on my evalbum page.
> > www.evalbum.com/2778
> >
> > The connector in the car is a NEMA L6-30P.  I like this because no high
> > voltage is present on any pins, no matter what is plugged in (or not).
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
> > > Behalf Of SLPinfo.org
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 9:30 AM
> > > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > > Subject: [EVDL] using dual voltage charger
> > >
> > > Hi folks,
> > >
> > > My Quick Charge Select-A-Charge charger is getting old as are my lead
> > acid
> > > batteries in my S-10 http://www.evalbum.com/3739.  I've been using
> them
> > > for about 2 years and have about 450 cycles on them.
> > >
> > > For the past several weeds the charger never seems to get up to the
> > target
> > > voltage.  The display seems to get stuck at about 55-60% (varies a
> little
> > from
> > > one day to the next) and then it just times out after about 11 hours.
> > > Using my DVM it looks like it's hitting about 135V or so which is quite
> > low for
> > > my 120V pack.  Clearly I'm undercharging my batteries.  I sort of knew
> > this
> > > would happen as I bought the charger used and it's only rated for
> > batteries
> > > up to 150 AH and mine are 170 AH Trojan  T-875s.  It also only puts out
> > 10
> > > amps at 110V so I may have been undercharging since day 1.
> > >
> > > Anyway I ordered and have now received an Elcon 2.5KW HF/PFC charger.
> > > It's supposed to run on both 110V and 220V.  I ran it last night on
> 110V
> > and it
> > > seemed to work (though the voltage never seemed to get above 140V on my
> > > 120V pack - should go to about 165V according to the Trojan algorithm
> > it's
> > set
> > > for).  I suspect that the 10 amps it puts out at this voltage just
> isn't
> > strong
> > > enough for these older batteries. So I'm hoping that running it at 220V
> > (which
> > > should put out about 18A) will do a better job.
> > >
> > > My question is this.  The charger comes with what looks like a standard
> > 110V
> > > male plug for AC input.  How do I hook this up to 220V?  There is
> nothing
> > > about this in the very minimal manual that came with the charger.
> > > Do I actually need to change the plug on end of the AC cord?  Or is
> there
> > > some kind of adapter I can buy so I can use both 110V and 220V as
> > available
> > > (that was why I bought this one).  I'd like to be able to use public
> > charging
> > > stations occasion for example.
> > >
> > > - Peter Flipsen Jr
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