The best scheme I have heard was mentioned a week ago. Use a 4X4 transfer case it has two outputs and one input. Connect it up as follows. V8 and its transmission to the Front axle drive shaft connection. The electric motor(s) to the connection usually used by the transmission for the V8. Use the output usually for the rear drive to the rear axle drive shaft. the transaxle gives a 2::1 ratio for the electric motor(s) that give a total ratio of ~ 6::1 for the electric motor(s), but the front and rear drive shafts have a 1::1 ratio all the time and the 2::1 ratio for the electrics can be shifted to 1::1 for highway driving. the V8 allways has the stock 3::1 ratio in the differential... It really is an "Elegant" solution. I would ask at the local custom 4X4 shop Which make and model would be best and to help you implement it!
Dennis Lee Miles (*evprofes...@evprofessor.com <evprofes...@evprofessor.com>)* * Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.* *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)* *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!* * You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss <http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss> * On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 11:31 PM, Ben Apollonio via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > For your hybrid application, I'd go with the AC. One word: regen -- > without it to recharge the battery, "hybrid mode" is of little benefit; > better to just disengage the motor altogether. > > I get decent performance out of my Porsche 914 with a single 9" DC motor > in 3rd gear (although it tops out around 65MPH). It even starts and drives > OK in 4th, but the clutch begins to slip. The lower gear ratio Netgain > suggests will keep motor speed down, making it easier to to push current > when the engine is spinning the crankshaft at higher speeds. However, > running slow comes at the expense of the torque multiplication in your > gearing; ultimately, you'll be running the motor hot in a low-efficiency > region. My Porsche performs as it does because I have a 170V pack and a > 1000A Zilla, but each of those drives up the cost & complexity. At lower > voltage, I'd be much more dependent on the gearing to have any power at > speed, and at lower currents, I'd be much more dependent on the gearing to > provide starting torque. And when I actually use 2nd-4th gear, it's a lot > more fun/powerful throughout. > > The AC has a better torque profile for a fixed (albeit higher) gear ratio. > However, given the rating of the motors, you'll probably need two AC-51's > to get decent performance unless they're upstream of the transmission. > > As for the hybrid mode, I would strongly encourage you to take it > incrementally, because the controls will be a challenge and you don't want > to be kept off the road while you figure it out. The vacuum sounds like a > good idea, but my gut says you'll need inputs from the throttle too. > You'll almost certainly require a control processor (possibly Arduino, > possibly more powerful). Step 1, IMO, is to make the car work with an EV > mode and with an engine-only mode where the electric motor just spins > freely. Once you have that working, you can tinker with hybrid control > schemes all day long. Frankly, I think it will be a game of diminishing > returns. Since you're using the existing engine instead of an undersized > one that relies on the electric boost, and since your motor is fixed on the > driveshaft (meaning you can't regen without also burning energy in > compression braking), I think the fuel efficiency gains will be limited. I > would say you should think of it more like a Honda > Civic hybrid than like a Chevy Volt/Prius, except it will have the > ability to fully disengage the engine for EV-only drive. > > -Ben > > On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Ben Goren via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > > > I know the question of AC and DC motors is a controversial one, and > probably done to death. But if all y'all might humor me, I'd appreciate a > bit of guidance on this. > > > > To recap, I have a chance to buy a 1964 1/2 Mustang in good shape for > not much money. The goal is to get something not unlike the driving > experience of a Volt, with an all-electric range of roughly a couple dozen > miles and a "traditional" Prius-style hybrid range limited only by the gas > tank. The thought is to replace most or all of the driveshaft with one or > more electric motors. > > > > I've now spoken with somebody at both HPEVS and Netgain. > > > > The guy at HPEVS wasn't exactly enthusiastic about the plan, but thinks > it can be done. He recommends a rear differential ratio in the 6:1 range to > make an AC-51 not be miserable. That would require a new 9" rear end for > the car and a custom transmission geared appropriately taller to keep the > combustion engine happy. He doesn't know much about people doing direct > drive or hybrid stuff with HPEVS motors. > > > > The guy at Netgain was most encouraging, and has done something nearly > identical to what I have in mind. He didn't recommend any gearing changes; > indeed, he suggested that a higher ratio (3:1 or higher) might be better > than stock, instead of the other way 'round. He had many very helpful > suggestions, such as ways to couple two motors or to get the electric > motor(s) to supply most of the power at low speeds and little power at high > speeds, thereby maximizing overall gasoline economy. > > > > It seems the beaten path for this type of project is therefore a Netgain > DC motor...but I still like the regen capabilities of the AC motors and the > reduced maintenance. > > > > I'm aware that only limited efficiency gains are available with regen, > but I have a secondary concern. When running in hybrid mode, once the > batteries get depleted, the car would become a pure-gas vehicle. It'd be > nice to instead use the combustion engine to just barely recharge the > batteries enough to still provide acceleration assist -- the same way the > Prius and the Volt do things. With regen, that should be straightforward. > Without, I'm left thinking of kludges such as using the combustion engine's > 12 volt system to trickle-charge the electric motor's batteries, and I'm > not so sure that's even safe, let alone possible. However, as a practical > matter, this might not actually be a concern if a full battery charge would > be comfortably ample for a full day's worth of hybrid-mode city driving. > > > > So...I'd appreciate a bit of insight on all this. Would a pair of AC-51s > be as happy in a direct drive application as a pair of WarP 9s, despite the > HPEVS guy's lack of familiarity with the matter? Am I worrying too much > about regen and brush maintenance? Is there something else I should be > worrying about instead? > > > > Thanks much, > > > > b& > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: signature.asc > > Type: application/pgp-signature > > Size: 801 bytes > > Desc: Message signed with OpenPGP using GPGMail > > URL: < > http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140723/4e0f8876/attachment.pgp > > > > _______________________________________________ > > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > > > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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