I also left the original hot water heater core in the vehicle. Can use either
the on board power or use a transfer switch to use commercial power to preheat
the heater while it is park and plug in. This work great since I did this
modification back in 1980.
Purchase most of the equipment from a local plumping and heating supply house.
1. The Element: A standard 2500 watt / 250 volt hot water heater element that
can work on any voltage from 120 to 250 volts.
2. The Tank: A 3-inch copper pipe about 30 inches long with a tee fitting at
one
end for a heater hose take off and threaded adapter to screw in the heater
element. A reducer bell pipe cap to fit the 3/4 inch hose fittings.
This tank and element was place on the same platform that the original engine
radiator was on.
3. Fill Tank with pressure cap: Use another 3 inch copper pipe place at the
same
position that the original radiator tank was in. Had a radiator shop attach a
fill neck that takes a standard 15 lb pressure cap with a relief vent that has
a small hose to
a overflow tank.
4. A small 2.5 inch diameter by 4 inch brass circulating pump, 120 VAC @ 0.5
amp power by a 100 watt inverter you can get at JC Whitney that will run off 12
vdc.
The Fill tank, heater tank, and pump are all connected in series with the
heater hoses that are connected to the heater core.
Both tanks and heater hoses are insulated with A/C high dense black foam hose
insulation you can get at Home Depot.
Use a Honeywell immersing sensor that screws in a tee fitting of the hose
fitting that is connected to a Honeywell high temperature cut off. I have my
set for 180 degrees F cut off with a 20 degrees differential that turns on at
160 degrees.
I use a 2 pole three position 30 amp 250 vac rated switch on the dash panel to
either select the on board power to the heater or 120/240 vac commercial power
while the main AC power plug is connected to the EV.
The water heat takes longer than the two resistance cab heaters I am using. In
this High County (Montana), My EV was park at work while the temperature was
minus 35 below. I use all three heaters which I turn on about 15 minutes
before I leave. The inside cab area will get up to 80 degrees F.
For the last 15 years, I only needed one heater to preheat the temperature to
80 degrees in 15 minutes before I leave.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: brucedp5 via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
To: ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heater solution for S-10 conversion, tips & tricks
Originally my S-10 Blazer conversion had a resistive heater that barely
defrosted the windshield after 15 minutes of warm up. At the time I did not
mind as the weather back in the 1990's only saw 1 month of frost (now with
the planet heating up, not at all).
A few years later when I paid to have some other upgrades done, I had that
wimpy heater replaced with a more powerful RUSSCO heater that used the
original (hot water from the ice) heater-core (it drew 25A off my 120VDC
pack). I did that for a couple of reasons, but mainly to reduce the
complaints from the gal I was dating (I was warm, I had enough clothes on,
etc.). That heater worked like a champ and I had heat quicker than she could
complain.
I doubt you could still get a RUSSCO heater, but there are other heater
solutions.
I found a few links links for you to explore:
http://www.canev.com/heater.php
http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/
I hope others will reply with what they use.
For EVLN EV-newswire posts use:
http://evdl.org/evln/
{brucedp.150m.com}
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Resistive-heater-core-access-for-S-10-conversion-EVA-kit-tips-tricks-tp4680519p4680524.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
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