wire losses add up quicker than you would expect!
I am using my EV for daily commute and a conservative estimate shows me
that I am charging at least 5,000 kWh per year.
If I use the cheapest/smallest allowed wire size and drop 10V of the 240V
during charging, well within the 6% drop allowed, then I am losing a
staggering 200kWh per year to heat loss in that wire, which over here in
PG&E land cost me $100 per year.
So, if I spend an extra $100 to upsize the wire and only lose 5V during
charging, the avoided losses pay for that wire in 2 years and save me $50
every year after.
Some hidden cost are larger than you think.

Another one is even more obvious: I used to get around 3 mi/kWh in my first
EV. Then for a while I drove another on the same commute and got 4.
What was the difference?
I found wheel alignment, esp. toe.
After I adjusted my own EV, I also got 4.
Today, with tires pumped to max sidewall pressure of 44psi and going a
constant 55 on the freeway, I get 5 on a warm day, 4.5 in California
winter. Big cost difference and only a few minutes difference on a long
commute.
Cor.

On Fri, Feb 13, 2026, 8:17 AM DOOLEY PHILIP G JR via EV <[email protected]>
wrote:

>  This now applies when replacing equipment that has both 120 and 240
> loads.  It doesn't apply to equipment with only 240V loads like for
> charging EVs and welders, plasma cutters, air compressors.  For those of us
> with lots of 3 conductor wire on hand, the 3 pin connectors like the 10-50
> make more sense.  The 4 pin connectors have a different shaped pin for
> earth and using a neutral pin for earth might be a misuse, but the J1772
> connector does this.
> Phil
>
>     On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 10:34:04 AM EST, Lee Hart via EV <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>  A historical note: In the US, the NEC requires all kitchen outlets need
> to be GFCI protected. UL requires all kitchen appliances to have all
> exposed metal parts grounded. But these are not legally required unless the
> local building codes cite the NEC and UL regulations.
>
> BUT... for decades, the electric kitchen range manufacturers lobbied hard
> and got an exception. Ranges used a 3-pin connector with NO GROUND and NO
> GFCI. Instead, it had two hots and a neutral. They used the neutral as
> their "ground". Any 120v devices in the range (light bulbs, fans, etc.)
> were wired between one of the hots and neutral. This was obviously less
> safe (but saved them money).
> --
> Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
> But it *does* require attention to detail! -- Lee Hart
> --
> Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com
>
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