Wow! You guys are really, really fast. Thanks much! So to recap:
- It looks like my best option here is to create "real" schematics myself using the tech reference on the MilesTag site, and then lay out the PCB myself in PCB. Sounds fair enough. Do you think the auto-router could handle a board like that on its own? Or am I going to need to route my own traces? I know the auto-router only really works if you have used the "Optimize rats nest" tool to get the best component placement, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Oh: and if I were to use the board layout as a background than obviously I wouldn't be using the auto-route function. :-) - One of the many things this laser tag board requires is a sub-circuit for sensing pulses or infra-red light. It requires a special part (an IR receiver...the TSOP48xx I believe). A special part like this has a very unusual footprint: if I can't find the footprint in PCB, would it be difficult to create my own? If so, could I substitute something with the same number of thru-holes such as a 3-pin connector for it when I draw my schematic? - What is this toner transfer method? Perhaps that's what I meant to say. The method I am trying to describe involves using glossy photo paper to print a mirror image of the (top side) of a PCB layout, which you iron onto a copper clad board. You then remove the paper by soaking it in lukewarm water and place your copper clad board in a tank of etching solution such as ferric chloride or some sort of diluted acid. Many of you pointed out some howto's.: thanks, I'll have to look into those. Unfortunately, I generally have less than an hour a day to devote to this, so hopefully I can have the board layouts finished before the end of February. :-) Thanks, Jeremy -- "Windows [n.] A thirty-two bit extension and GUI shell to a sixteen bit patch to an eight bit operating system originally coded for a four bit microprocessor and sold by a two-bit company that can't stand one bit of competition." (Anonymous) ~*~*~*~*~ * JDP :) * ~*~*~*~*~
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