Hi Mark,
was your old version Win10 PRO" as well? - as far as I know a
reinstall will only validate if the hardware as recorded at MS mostly
matches and its the same version. Cloning via dd, then running through
the re-validation checks, then making changes in small steps is the only
way I have been able to make it work despite what is written in the link
below.
Also check out:
https://www.techrepublic.com/article/windows-10-will-microsoft-charge-you-if-you-need-to-reinstall/
BillK
On 7/1/20 7:37 am, Mark Knecht wrote:
Michael,
I got Win 10 Pro installed via the M$ tool that creates USB install
devices. It worked fine. Reading online it seems that if M$ sees the
new disk as still the same 'hardware' then it's supposed to
automatically validate and I'd be good to go. so far, after 2 hours it
hasn't done that but I'll give it awhile and see what happens. As it
only took an hour I might still try the disk copy path and see if that
comes up validated as that would also transfer the couple of
applications I have on the original hard drive.
Anyway, thanks for the ideas.
Cheers,
Mark
On Mon, Jan 6, 2020 at 3:01 PM Michael Jones <gen...@jonesmz.com
<mailto:gen...@jonesmz.com>> wrote:
You can use the Windows 10 Download Tool (Or similarly named
thing, sorry, I can't find the details of it at this time) to
download an ISO image
Combine that with the rufus program https://rufus.ie/ (I use the
portable one, personally) to create a Windows 10 USB installer stick.
On Mon, Jan 6, 2020 at 2:39 PM Mark Knecht <markkne...@gmail.com
<mailto:markkne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the response. Great info.
The install Win 10 clean sounds wonderful if it works. With
no DVD in this machine it sounds like I should investigate an
install from USB if the machine supports it. It's an Asus
gaming laptop circa 2008 so hopefully that works but I've
never done it on this machine.
Cheers,
Mark
On Mon, Jan 6, 2020 at 12:56 PM Michael Jones
<gen...@jonesmz.com <mailto:gen...@jonesmz.com>> wrote:
Generally the way I've handled this situation in the past
is like so (this is written from memory, so expect
gratuitous problems).
On the machine with the drive attached
mbuffer -i /dev/mydrive | xz -e -9 | mbuffer -O hostname:port
On a machine with storage space
mbuffer -I port -o /path/to/storage.xz
To make a backup.
In terms of cloning windows to another harddrive in
general, as long as the destination harddrive is large
enough to fit the original drive without issues, simply
running:
dd if=/dev/original of=/dev/destination
(I prefer dcfldd, personally)
Is enough. Run gparted (the graphical version, for nice
wizards) after, and it'll fixup your partition table for
you to match the new size, and you can re-size any
partitions you have to make them match as well. I do
exactly this all the time and have yet to have a problem.
As for windows 10 licensing, don't trust me on this
blindly, but your license should be tied to the hardware
fingerprint of the laptop. So even installing windows
fresh on your new SSD should result in Windows activating
automatically. In fact, you might want to take this
opportunity to try that out, to get a completely fresh
installation without the decade of old cruft built up by
window's lack of a package manager.
If it doesn't activate as soon as you plug in an ethernet
cable, you can just wipe your SSD and copy your old
installation as discussed already.
On Mon, Jan 6, 2020 at 1:11 PM Mark Knecht
<markkne...@gmail.com <mailto:markkne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hi all,
I haven't been here in a couple of years. IT's
great to see some familiar names posting. Cheers to all.
I have a laptop running Win 10 with no (working)
DVD/CDROM. For various reasons I want to move from a
10 year old laptop drive to a new SSD and am looking
for guidance on I might do that. Win 10 is properly
licensed but through a weird channel - it was Win 7
that M$ allowed to convert to Win 10 for free and I'm
nervous that if the hard drive died I'd have to
purchase a new license as the free conversion path
likely doesn't exist anymore.
Both drives are nominally 500GB.
The older hard drive fdisk info shows:
root@science:~# fdisk --list /dev/sde
Disk /dev/sde: 465.8 GiB, 500107862016 bytes,
976773168 sectors
Disk model: ASM1053E
Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
Disklabel type: dos
Disk identifier: 0xe0c5913d
DeviceBoot Start End Sectors SizeIdType
/dev/sde1 63 45062324 45062262 21.5G
1c Hidden W95 FAT32 (LBA)
/dev/sde2 * 45062325 288063133 243000809 115.9G
7 HPFS/NTFS/exFAT
/dev/sde3 288063488 289247231 1183744 578M
27 Hidden NTFS WinRE
/dev/sde4 289249254 976768064 687518811 327.9G
fd Linux raid autodetect
root@science:~#
The Linux RAID autodetect is from running Gentoo at
some earlier time and probably doesn't need to be
copied. I'm not at all sure what /dev/sde3 is or
whether it's required to make M$ happy.
The new SSD is unused and shows:
root@science:~# fdisk --list /dev/sdf
Disk /dev/sdf: 465.8 GiB, 500107862016 bytes,
976773168 sectors
Disk model: ASM1053E
Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes
root@science:~#
The appear to have the same sector count and
overall size.
I can make a 1TB drive available in my big machine
and work over USB (which is what I'm doing to get the
info above) but I'm unclear how much of this can be
done automatically and how much I might need to do by
hand.
As long as I don't hurt the old drive I can put
data on the SSD multiple times to get through the
process in case I have trouble.
Does anyone have experience with this sort of issue
and can you point me toward some instructions I might try?
Thanks,
Mark
