Hi. All of the currently known illos from the time in question can be
found in either Dunlevy's book or in McClintock. I noticed at Pennsic
that one bookseller, Poison Pen, I think, had digitized and copied
McClintock onto CD.
I did find conflicting information on a couple of
things as well..
..what sort of decoration was on the jackets - either
embroidered, or braid that was sewn on?
Depends on whether it is early or late 16th Cent. Differing illos show a
change in the jacket decoration. The Kilcommon jacket had none, but
then, it was the type seen in the 1580s illos, not the 1520s or later
ones. The Irish chieftains (Ashmolean Museum) and DeHeers illos show
decoration
..did the sleeves have ties only at the wrist or along
the full length, or were they only worn loose.
It looks like only loose or attached at the wrist (maybe not tied at
all...) Depends once again on which illo or which artifact and what
period. McClintock talks about buttons at the cuff in his description of
the Kilcommon jacket.
..how was it held closed in front - by belt, ties, or
a brooch?
Looking at the 1540s one, (Ashmolean) it seems to be attached by a
single button, tie or hook and eye, although none of these is evident in
either the 1540s or de Heere (1670s, but purported to have been taken
from the reign of Henry VIII) illos, except what might be a loop of
something on one of the de Heere men. One of the later (1580s) illos
(Derricke's) looks like there was a belt on one guy... but all of the
rest, save the horseboy, seem to meet at the middle with no discernable
attachment.
..did it overlap like a bathrobe or like a jacket when
closed?
It appears to have closed butted on both the earlier and later examples,
although one image (the horseboy from a Derricke's engraving) looks
overlapped.
I realize the answers are subject to interpretation of
research and there are virtually no extant examples,
but any information is appreciated.
The Kilcommon jacket looks very much like the Images of Ireland
jackets (Derricke's). It lloks to me as if the "standing ruff" skirt
evolved from the less stiff earlier version seen in the Ashmolean illo
and the de Heere one. The folded back collar evokes a similar neckline
seen at the end of the 15th/beginning of the 16th cents. H.F.
McClintock Old Irish and Highland Dress Dundalgan Press 1950
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