We've debated this topic more than once and the general consensus seems to be 
that chemises/shifts before the 18th century had stitched-down gathers, not 
drawstrings. 17th century reenactors commonly do make shifts with drawstrings, 
presumably because that's how we would make modern garments that look like that 
(i.e. "peasant" or "gypsy"-style blouses). 
I'm not a Tudor expert, but presumably the ruff developed from a chemise neck 
gathered into a ruffle?

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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