We've debated this topic more than once and the general consensus seems to be that chemises/shifts before the 18th century had stitched-down gathers, not drawstrings. 17th century reenactors commonly do make shifts with drawstrings, presumably because that's how we would make modern garments that look like that (i.e. "peasant" or "gypsy"-style blouses). I'm not a Tudor expert, but presumably the ruff developed from a chemise neck gathered into a ruffle?
Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume