From my own take on the styles you have chosen:
The first two are about 1898/1900 and the third is between 1892/97. The
sleeve is the teller for the bodices and the skirts are more tailored with
hip molding then you see in the earlier drabed skirt. If you have Fran's
books, compare the pattern shapes she gives for skirts in this period and
make any adjustments on the patterns you are using to correspond with those
lines. I have been using them to do h-costume in minature and have been
delighted with the results.
View 1:
The vest you speak of will be the front only section. This will be
completely finished and lays over the muslin underbodice. Use a good weight
velvet (I would choose cotton velvet, as it has anatural body that will not
need to be underlined itself.) As the layers are assembled, you will wnat to
watch for too much bulk.
The gimp braiding used on this garment was usually wool or silk. In order
to keep the scale of the proposed trim, it should be 3/8" or 1/2-5/8" This
may be hard to find except with some fancy work.
View 2:
Very interesting. The fur trim is very period and chique; however, if you
can't lay your hands on real fur...Persian or otherwise...you might want to
set this one aside for a while.
View 3: Fabric should be a little lighter and drapeable. With the lace
trim, it speaks of annother season of the year than winter/transition.
Do not omit linings and interlinings on any of these designes as these are
all needed to support and maintain the general shape and flow of the gown.
The fastenings will all be hooks and eyes. The fit of the underbodice is
very important. This will establish the fit; all else of the bodice is
"upholstering" if you will.
The colors and yardages you report all seem to work well for the period.
I look forward to your report of choice(s) and progress of the project.
Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?
Greetings folks!
It seems my costuming inspiration has come back with a vengeance. After
much lurking and dithering, I'm going to be making two Victorian (or early
Edwardian?) outfits in preparation for CostumeCon 26, but need a little
help with details.
Ageless Patterns for inspirations and then Truly Victorian and Laughing
Moon were posited as good starting patterns for me (I don't think the
person recommending realized I owned/had access to several of Fran's
books). I've been going through my book and the local library's
selection, as well as several online sites trying to see what general
silhouettes appeal most to me, and it looks like from about 1887 to 1899,
and a couple of pieces from 1905 are the ones I'll be trying to focus on,
with more of the walking/day type skirts, not the evening gowns.
I'm not experienced at drafting up yet, so this will be a good learning
experience, no matter what outfits I choose. Plus of course trying to get
a decent idea of color combinations and trim/decorative styles for that
time period.
My sister-in-law will be letting me rifle through her Truly Victorian and
Laughing Moon undergarment and basic skirt/bodice patterns, which will
help me see better as my computer doesn't show them well.
The three primary types of silhouettes I seem to come up with are as
follows, with questions at the end.
A: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1008.GIF
B: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1488.GIF
C: http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/Del_3_94d.jpg
A: 1887 Braided Cloth Gown w/Bell Skirt: This gown was made of bluet-blue
cloth with a vest of dark blue velvet and braiding in dark blue soutache.
The waist is a belted blouse, cut low on the velvet vest, with the fronts
connected by a clasp. Design for soutache braid included.
B: 1899 Gown Trimmed w/Persian Lamb: The pattern for this terra cotta
colored cloth gown trimmed with embroidery and Persian lamb consists of
bodice, outer skirt, underskirt and pattern for embroidery.
C: I like this piece as well, it looks very similar to 5 of the ones in
the 1890's Dover book I've got checked out, or one that's pictured in R.
Turner Wilcox's "The Mode in Costume" out of peacock green with black
accents and a violet satin waist and belt.
Query 1: On dress A, isn't a Bell Skirt more 1890's? I like the thought
of playing with the detailing like this, but am confused at what the back
would look like. Is anyone familiar with this particular pattern who can
clear it up for me? Also, what is meant by a velvet vest under the waist?
Is that simply a sleeved garment under the blouse, or something else?
Query 2: Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used
so that I can better visualize them? I do okay with only written
descriptions, but examples I can see work much better. I have some long
lengths of white gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel
combination that I think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's
without any knowledge, and I'd rather have something that doesn't look
like an inspired costume.
Query 3: Fabrics/colors. I've got a tropical weight bright jade/peacock
green wool (almost 20 yards, it was at a thrift store), lots of
lightweight black wool (off cuts from a garment store averaging about 2
yards each), 10 yards of an icy greyed lavender faux shot silk, 10 yards
of a black orchid grosgrain type fabric and 10 yards of a medium rose
linen weave, plus lots of white, black, green and purple bits of velvets,
satins, laces and wools that I could pull out for accents. They are all
plain fabrics, as is most of my hoard, but I tend to prefer to err that
way, than with patterns. Would any of these work?
Sorry for the rambling, I stayed up a bit too late reading and playing
with images for this last night and am paying for it at work today.
Thank you for your time!
JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
who will also be doing two 1940's outfits-one suit and one evening gown, I
have EVIL friends!
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