Just an 'aside' -- Although the moern safety pin might have been invented around 1845, the Princeton Art Museum has a safety pin in their ancient Greek and Roman collection.
Kate Pinner -----Original Message----- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 9:28 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Query RE: early Civil War women's dress Hello to everyone, I have newly subscribed, and hope you can help with some little detail-oriented question I have about dress for an approx. 1861 upper-middle-class women's dress: (She lived in New England). I appreciate in advance your help--you were all EXTREMELY helpful about 6 years ago, when I reproduced my great-grandmother's dress from a family photo. The final product was amazing. This time I am trying to re-create a historical character. I chose a bodice with bishop sleeves and a very full skirt. Lots of petticoats. An apron. The fabric is a 100% cotton that is a medium size print in a base of navy/indigo blue, with small white circles surrounded by smaller green crescents and tiny white dots in a a diagonal pattern. . Anyway, here are my first questions about the 1861 lady: 1. Were side front closures the most common? and was it usually the left or the right side? 2. What about pockets? I cannot find any references or photos that show skirts had pockets--were they still using a little pouch tied at the waist under the dress? Is it reasonable to design a watch pocket in the skirt? 3. What kind of hose would they usually wear? Above or below the knee? (and I"m referring to daily wear, not formal) and how was it held on?--would she have worn silk or cotton (even though cotton, by that time, may well have been becoming harder to obtain). Can you suggest a reference for making the garters? 4. I have some references that women (of working classes at least) would have had aprons that might be made from previously worn-out dresses or skirts. For an upper-middle-class lady, who probably took care of her own children and house to a large extent (her husband was off at war) , would that be the case, or would she have worn a newer apron (i.e. white or a solid color; cotton or linen)? Were all aprons the "pinner" aprons? That's what I can find--either those or just the skirt aprons that tied in back. Safety pins were invented in about 1849, were they using those for aprons? 5. I am not planning to wear hoops, although most of the photos of the time time seem to imply them, i.e. full, wide skirts. Once the war was really underway, and there was starting to be some early financial hardships--were the hoops scrapped in favor of petticoats? Doubtless I will have more questions, but these are the major ones as I dive in. I really want to create a persona here and be really accurate. Thanks for any help you can give. Yours in costuming, Lisa A _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
