Steve,
I have 7 APC UPS's and one Belkin UPS. I have never had a serious
problem with my newer APC devices, but did go thru the eye with the 4
old devices (circa 1997) that used the old proprietary APC rs-232x
interface. Never did get them to communicate well. These old units are
now in their 3d replacement battery cycle. They run 24/7.
All newer APC devices use USB which works very well. And the APC SW has
gotten a bit better also. These newer units run 24/7. The Belkin device
was a gift (circa 2001), and, it lost its' internal battery in late 2007
(limited use).
Please know that the model #'s for UPS's are just often model #'s. Por
Ehemplo:
Old APC Back-Ups Pro BP1100 is really 670W usable
Back-Ups XS BR1500(RS) is really 865W usable
Back-Ups XS BX1500LCD(XS) is really 865W usable
Old Belkin F6C-350USB is really 277W usable
I just do not have a useful formula to share anymore because our psus
have changed so much over the years. I have tested all my machines with
one of my new BX1500LCD(XS) psus. It has a nice little LCD window that
displays things like internal battery charge, service line voltage, ups
line voltage, present wattage demand, calculated run time if/when
service main goes out. It is very helpful.
Oddly, I notice that my older 300W psus draw 140-160W at power up
depending on how many add-in cards are present. My newer EPS12 610W
psus draw 60-80W at power up depending on the same thing.
Since I suspect this indicates better efficiency at the psu, I just do
not know how to suggest the proper UPS to you. But, basically I would
add up all the "implied" wattage loads you intend to connect to the psu.
Like the PC, Display, net stuff, whatever. Multiply whatever value you
get by 2x. Then, go shop for a UPS that is closest to your computed
value BUT on the HIGH Side; like one model bigger if necessary. Please
use actual output wattage of the UPS for this. If you choose to step up
this calculation to 2.5x or 3x, then what you really just buy is extra
minutes of "on-battery" run-time to provede more time to properly power
down your stuff; like not be in a rush!
Trust me, trying to read a kbd via candle light at 0330hrs can be tough.
Other than trying to figure out proper size of the UPS, you need to be
sure to get features like Line Voltage Regulation (AVR?), Sagging
Voltage Boost, High Voltage Trim, and, quick action to avoid voltage
spikes hitting your psu(s) when the power goes out.
And, yes, as Christopher mentioned, pay attention to how long your units
might operate on the batteries. Ideally, you should plan to be able to
power OFF all your UPS's loads before the battery is 60% depleted. Still
doing this research, but when UPS batteries get depleted below ~50% too
many times (and I have done this several times in the past 5 years!)
they just go sour really quick and fail completely after ~2 years!
If you have a ready source of "cheap" replacement batteries, you are
good to go. OTOH, retail and other high quality UPS batteries can be
pricey!! BTW, I now use Yuasa replacments. APC is just way too proud of
their decals!!! LOL!
Hope this helps,
Duncan
Steve Tomporowski wrote:
Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a
couple of questions.
First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on
it? The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on
only when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS
shut it down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be
better to run each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any
UPS I get will have a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't
seem logical otherwise.
Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10
minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for
two hours, waiting for the power to come on.....
Thanks....Steve
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