https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=aquarium+float+valve

On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 1:17 PM, ken winston caine <
k...@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:

> **
> That WOULD work, epecially if it had a float valve as the big, traditional
> rooftop and window swamp coolers do.
>
> Wonder if 50 gallons is overkill?
>
> The big ones don't need constant steady flow from a water source because
> they recirculate the water that drips into the catch tray at the bottom.
> They do let water seep constantly onto the pads from the top and turn on the
> water source flow (via the float valve) any time to the top reservoir tray
> gets low.
>
> Must be some way to integrate a float between a bulk source of water
> hanging (or mounted) above the swamp cooler. Or....
>
> maybe just use an IV valve -- the little plastic pinch device on the tube
> running from an IV bag -- to control the rate of flow.
>
> Still, at some point, you probably will get overflow of the catch tray on
> the bottom. So need to design for that, too. Since water is precious, and
> particularly in desert environments where you haul it in, would be nice to
> design a way to catch -- and later re-use -- any overflow. Wouldn't be hard
> to do. Just another tube and container, this one below the unit. Then once
> or twice a day, empty the overflow container into the source container.
>
> We're getting closer here to a very low energy efficient evaporative
> cooler, Richard!
>
> -- ken winston caine
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Ginn <g...@gii.net>
> *To:* hexayurt@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:20 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] Windows and COOLING on the PLAYA
>
> another way to have water flow down over the material is with a large
> reservoir (plastic garbage can) above it that you refill by hand (bucket) as
> needed.  50 gallons would trickle down all night maybe?
>
> On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:31 AM, ken winston caine <
> k...@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:
>
>> **
>> Pretty amazing amount of pumping for 6 watts, Richard.
>>
>> Still, if I'm running it 24 hours a day (along with the fan) during the
>> current 100-plus degree days and high 70s to high 80s nights until about 4
>> a.m. when finally it starts to cool down a little, I'm using 282 watts a
>> day. That's 1/5 of the total electricity I have available each non-overcast
>> day from my solar system. That's a pretty big bite and I can probably afford
>> it only a day or two a week and keep the system healthy.
>>
>> It's NOTHING if you're on the grid. And a wonderful savings compared to
>> typical pumps.
>>
>> Best,
>> ken winston caine
>>
>> P.S. Am going to look into it, anyway. Because it would be really nice to
>> be able to use it if only from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. or so when the inside of my
>> RV heats up into the middle 90s most days this time of year. My self-wicking
>> coolers bring the air right in front of me and on my face down to the mid
>> 80s while I'm working at my desk, which is much more tolerable than mid 90s.
>> But if I could force more water into the pads, and add pads, I could get
>> better cooling.
>>
>> Have been meaning to hook up the Kill-a-Watt meter up to an aquarium pump
>> and see what kind of wattage it draws. If it's less than 6 watts, I'll
>> report that here. (Doubt that it will be.)
>>
>>
>>  ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Richard Ginn <richardg...@gmail.com>
>> *To:* hexayurt@googlegroups.com
>>   *Sent:* Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:21 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] Windows and COOLING on the PLAYA
>>
>> For 6 watts you can power a 12-volt CPU water cooling pump that is rated
>> at 132 gallons per hour, and then you don't have to wick the water at all:
>>
>>
>> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6073/ex-pmp-53/Danger_Den_DD-CPX1_12V_3-Pin_Powered_Pump_-_DD-CPX1.html?tl=g30c107s153
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:11 PM, ken winston caine <
>> k...@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Jack, I've experimented with developing a 7-watt, self-wicking swamp
>>> cooler
>>> that works pretty well.
>>>
>>> Haven't experimented with EVERY fabric known to man, but did find,
>>> surprisingly, that absorbant paper towels tended to wick better than
>>> about
>>> any cloth fabric I could test.But even., then, they tend to wick up only
>>> about 6 inches above the water surface.
>>>
>>> What really helps is to hang them with open pleats facing the air source
>>> and
>>> allowing a tiny bit of air space between each hanging wick. That allows
>>> the
>>> air to pass between them a tiny bit. If using a high-efficiency,
>>> low-wattage
>>> 12v fan made for use in RVs and campers, having the open end of the pleat
>>> facing the fan's exhaust also helps the pleats balloon a bit and speeds
>>> evaporation.
>>>
>>> My design provides 8 to 10 degree cooling for about 5 feet in front of
>>> the
>>> swamp cooler exhaust. So it's a personal cooler, not a room cooler.
>>> Although
>>> it does noticeably help cool the room a tiny bit, so long as you have
>>> fresh
>>> air vents in the room bringing in occasional super dry gusts. That's when
>>> you notice the moisture evaporating in areas of the room other than
>>> directly
>>> in front of the cooler.
>>>
>>> The more folds of wicking material you can fit in your box (if buidling a
>>> swamp cooler) the more cooling effect you'll get.
>>>
>>> Have yet to experiment with putting the fan on the top of the box,
>>> ponting
>>> down at the wicks and water tray on the bottom. Am planning to test that
>>> next.
>>>
>>> Have tried quite a few variations. Have found that the fan BEHIND the
>>> wicks,
>>> blowing air through them, provides better cooling than locating the fan
>>> in
>>> front of the wicks so that it *draws* the air through the wicks.
>>>
>>> Also have found that having a larger intake opening than exhaust opening
>>> seems to help a bit, too. About a 2::1 ratio has seemed best in my
>>> experiments.
>>>
>>> You can do these with cardboard boxes and duct tape and  rubber maid
>>> shoe-box size plastic containers.
>>>
>>> The type of fan I use is this:
>>>
>>> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/fan-tastic-endless-breeze-12v-fan/38132
>>>
>>> I also found at the end of summer about six years ago at a Wal Mart in
>>> Albuquerque a season closeout price on  Wal-Mart's "Ozark Trails" version
>>> of
>>> this fan and bought seven of them for $4 each and am using those in two
>>> of
>>> my swamp cooler. They actually use less wattage than the Endless Breeze,
>>> but
>>> push slightly less air through, too.
>>>
>>> May have been four years ago I wrote here about Buckminster Fuller's
>>> proven
>>> "cooling effect," but have not yet heard of anyone experimenting with it
>>> on
>>> the playa with hexayurts.
>>>
>>> Fuller proved that putting a rain-capped stovepipe in the center of the
>>> roof
>>> of his circular dymation house or at the apex of the roof of a geodesic
>>> dome, and then having open vents about 1 foot above floor level around
>>> the
>>> walls of the building created an amazing, counter-intuitive cooling
>>> effect.
>>> The ratio of low-wall vent airflow capacity to roof vent was about 4 to
>>> 1,
>>> if I recall correctly.
>>>
>>> What happens -- and Fuller demonstrated this multiple times, including in
>>> a
>>> dome at the equator built for the U.S. military -- is that as the ground
>>> around the building and the walls of the building heat up as the sun
>>> beats
>>> down, this creates a flow of warm air rising around the outside of the
>>> building. That rising air creates suction at the floor level vents,
>>> pulling
>>> air out of the building. That causes a rush of air to be pulled down into
>>> the building through the roof vent.
>>>
>>> Fuller said this phenomenon extends for hundreds of feet into the air
>>> above
>>> the building. So you have hot air rising in a circle around the building
>>> and
>>> COOL air from higher in the atmosphere hundreds of feet above the
>>> building
>>> being sucked down the center of the invisible column.
>>>
>>> The cooling effect was commonly reported to be in the range of 20
>>> degrees.
>>> That is, the air coming in through the root pipe and dropping on the room
>>> had an effect of cooling the room by about 20 degrees from its
>>> temperature
>>> with the vents all closed.
>>>
>>> Pretty amazing. Completely passive (other than opening and closing
>>> vents).
>>> And, other than the initial cost to build (the pvc or stove pipe and rain
>>> cap and dampers), free.
>>>
>>> I say that this is counter intuitive because normally we expect interior
>>> heat to rise and exit through a roof vent. And normally it does. And that
>>> certainly helps exhaust heat from the room or building. But it doesn't
>>> bring
>>> in a nice, steady, flow of cool air that drops on the room from the
>>> ceiling.
>>>
>>> Hope that helps inspire someone to experiment and report their results.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> ken winston caine
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Jack Senechal" <jacksenec...@gmail.com>
>>> To: <hexayurt@googlegroups.com>
>>> Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 3:19 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [hexayurt] Windows
>>>
>>>
>>> I've used metal tape to fix a plexiglass panel to the outside, and it
>>> worked great. You could do two for better insulation, one inside and
>>> one out. And if you have two panels of plexiglass, you can bolt
>>> through them for extra solidity. But I think that might be overkill
>>> for the Playa. Having the cutout in there to block the sun during the
>>> part of the day when it shines in the window directly would probably
>>> be a good idea.
>>>
>>> Regarding ventilation, I suspect that it would work well to generate
>>> an updraft by installing a black chimney pipe in the roof. That would
>>> draw air up when the sun shines on it, pulling it in through your
>>> vents below.
>>>
>>> As an added bonus, you could put a damp cloth over the vent so air has
>>> to pass through it, which would cool it down and moisturize the air.
>>> You'd need a course fabric for that, something that's absorbent and
>>> loosely woven so air could pass through well. You could drape the
>>> bottom into a bucket of water, and it would wick it up continuously.
>>>
>>> I haven't actually tried those ventilation ideas to work out the kinks
>>> yet, but I intend to do that this year. The principles behind it are
>>> sound though :)
>>>
>>> Jack
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 11:20 AM, Milt Fisher <mfisher...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> > I was planning to tape the filters to the outside after setting up.
>>> That
>>> > way
>>> > I could replace the cutouts during dust storms if too much dust came
>>> > through
>>> > the filters.
>>> > Did you just have one filter? Was that enough to provide ventilation?
>>> > On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:44 AM, Steve Upstill <upst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Don't know if you're headed for the Playa, but I liked my hyurt nice
>>> and
>>> > dark. I had great results with a furnace filter: cut a hole just small
>>> > enough to hold the filter firmly. Bonus: you can still fold/stack your
>>> > panels.
>>> > Cheers,
>>> > Steve
>>> > --
>>> > Before you criticize a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when
>>> you
>>> > do
>>> > criticize him, you'll be a mile away and you'll have his shoes.
>>> >
>>> > On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:03 AM, Milt Fisher wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> I'd like some recommendations for hexayurt windows. I'm not interested
>>> in
>>> >> framed, sliding windows with screens, just some plastic of some kind
>>> >> taped
>>> >> over a hole in the panel. Any recommendations on what kind of plastic
>>> to
>>> >> use? Thin plexiglas maybe? Or perhaps flexible vinyl?
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Any other ideas for simple windows?
>>> > I'm planning to tape the plastic to the outside and hinge the panel
>>> cutout
>>> > into the window opening so we can close it when we want darkness.
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > Milt
>>> > --
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