On 4 September 2013 00:51, Henner Zeller <h.zel...@acm.org> wrote:
> On 3 September 2013 23:54, Lucas González <lucas.gonzalez...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Interested. Would evaporative cooling work _at all_ in humid climates?
>
> If you are close to 100% humidity: no. In particular since you want to
> cool down the air, you need to look at the amount of humidity in the
> _target_ temperature range; if you already have a pretty humid
> climate, then this might already be oversaturated at the target
> temperature, so nothing can be evaporated more. Swamp coolers are only
> useful in dry climates.
>
> It is relatively simple: you really just need to calculate the partial
> gas pressure of water vapor in the given target temperature (colder
> air can hold less water), and how much more could 'fit in' given the
> dryness of the climate (how much water vapor is already there per m^3
> and how much more you can add). This looks like a useful resource:
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-vapor-saturation-pressure-air-d_689.html
> With that, you can calculate the amount of water you can evaporate
> into a given volume.
> Given the required target temperature and knowing how much heat energy
> is supplied every second (estimate energy intake by the yurt area in
> sun in Joule (<< 1000 J/(m^2 * s) (1000W energy of sun per m^2, but
> most of it is reflected with aluminum covered sheets, hence the 'much
> less than' sign) + number of people * 100 J/s (typical heat 'exhaust'
> of a human is 100W)

+ temperature gradient outside/inside and energy flow due to that
depending on the insulation
of your insulation material.

> and the amount of energy taken by the water->steam
> transition (2260 J/g water evaporation heat) - you can calculate the
> grams water you need to evaporate per time unit (to fit the energy
> bill) and flow rate (to keep the air dry enough to be able to take on
> this mass of water per time-unit).
>
> -h
>
>> Perhaps with some modifications? I think not but haven't tried.
>> Sleepbreeze.com.uk does seem to work, but that's one body, not one room.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Lucas
>>
>> El 04/09/2013 08:32, "ken winston caine" <ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com>
>> escribió:
>>
>>> David is right. You definitely need to have an exhaust vent. Swamp cooling
>>> cools by moisture evaporating in dry air -- not by creating increasingly
>>> swampy air. You must draw fresh dry air in, and let the moist air out.
>>>
>>> Since the moist, cooler air falls to the floor, it is best not to depend
>>> upon a roof exhaust vent.  A mid-height window, or open door will do the
>>> trick.
>>>
>>> RE: your test. You didn't tell us WHERE, what region, you were conducting
>>> the test in. Were you in a region with 30% or less relative humidity? If so,
>>> your test would be a good indicator of the effectiveness of the evaporative
>>> cooling, once you have the intake and exhaust set up correctly. If you were
>>> in a higher humidity zone, there is no point in running the test. It simply
>>> won't give you any indication of how the evaporative cooling will work in
>>> low-humidity, desert conditions.
>>>
>>> Hope that helps.
>>>
>>> ken winston caine
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 11:41 PM, David Kelso <david+goo...@kelso.id.au>
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> A swamp cooler needs to be constantly moving fresh air in, humid air
>>>> out in order to keep cool. So you should aim to have a directional
>>>> airflow path. It can go up to the roof, or out to the door. You need
>>>> to make sure the outlets are big enough that the fan isn't fighting
>>>> any extra pressure inside the yurt. An outlet fan would help with that
>>>> but isn't strictly necessary
>>>>
>>>> The major factor in swamp cooler effectiveness is fan speed. Which fan
>>>> were you using?
>>>>
>>>> For anecdotal evidence, last year I was in a 6ft stretch and was
>>>> getting at least 30 degree F cooling throughout the whole yurt.
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 10:19 PM, Jason Adams
>>>> <jasonadamspriv...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> > So I setup an H12, with two swamp coolers, with insulated ducts into
>>>> > opposite ends of my Yurt.  Just cut a hole for the ducts.
>>>> >
>>>> > Its going to be hard to describe, but I still felt like the swamp
>>>> > coolers or
>>>> > the yurt wasn't really cooling much.  I felt like being out in the sun,
>>>> > but
>>>> > in the breeze was way more cooling that in a h12 with two swamp coolers
>>>> > running.  The airflow really close to the duct holes was nice, but once
>>>> > you
>>>> > got more than a foot away from duct, you didn't really feel it.
>>>> >
>>>> > It also felt hot inside, maybe thats just the moisture or sticky icky
>>>> > feeling you get from releasing that much moisture in the air.
>>>> >
>>>> > It's definitely nice not having the intense light on you, the yurt
>>>> > certainly
>>>> > kept alot of that sun off the ground , probably getting a cooling
>>>> > ground
>>>> > effect, but I feel like I was missing some comfort.
>>>> >
>>>> > I feel like my options are to basically vent the yurt, or do a fan
>>>> > exiting
>>>> > air at the top of the yurt. Which would ideally get more airflow in the
>>>> > yurt
>>>> > -- however I feel like that would lose some of the effect of the swamp
>>>> > cooling (after all I'm sealing the bottom to keep the cool air in
>>>> > right?).
>>>> >
>>>> > Maybe what I really needed was some type of airflow in the yurt, either
>>>> > up
>>>> > the power of the swamp cooling fans -- or hang a big fan from the top
>>>> > of the
>>>> > yurt.
>>>> >
>>>> > Just trying to figure out how to make this thing more comfortable,
>>>> > because I
>>>> > honestly felt cooler under a shade structure, with some pillows and the
>>>> > breeze coming through.
>>>> >
>>>> > Thoughts?
>>>> >
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