So I could (some other day) set up a spreadsheet with a few cells. The
critical factor is local humidity, which can be measured. All other factors
considered, there'll be a humidity threshold beyond which evaporative
cooling won't work.

Helpful, thanks!

(Note to self: link to said spreadsheet (when done) from cooling wikipage
(if that page exists). As usual, unless someone beats me to it. O:-))

Lucas
El 04/09/2013 09:56, "Henner Zeller" <h.zel...@acm.org> escribió:

> On 4 September 2013 00:51, Henner Zeller <h.zel...@acm.org> wrote:
> > On 3 September 2013 23:54, Lucas González <lucas.gonzalez...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >> Interested. Would evaporative cooling work _at all_ in humid climates?
> >
> > If you are close to 100% humidity: no. In particular since you want to
> > cool down the air, you need to look at the amount of humidity in the
> > _target_ temperature range; if you already have a pretty humid
> > climate, then this might already be oversaturated at the target
> > temperature, so nothing can be evaporated more. Swamp coolers are only
> > useful in dry climates.
> >
> > It is relatively simple: you really just need to calculate the partial
> > gas pressure of water vapor in the given target temperature (colder
> > air can hold less water), and how much more could 'fit in' given the
> > dryness of the climate (how much water vapor is already there per m^3
> > and how much more you can add). This looks like a useful resource:
> >
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-vapor-saturation-pressure-air-d_689.html
> > With that, you can calculate the amount of water you can evaporate
> > into a given volume.
> > Given the required target temperature and knowing how much heat energy
> > is supplied every second (estimate energy intake by the yurt area in
> > sun in Joule (<< 1000 J/(m^2 * s) (1000W energy of sun per m^2, but
> > most of it is reflected with aluminum covered sheets, hence the 'much
> > less than' sign) + number of people * 100 J/s (typical heat 'exhaust'
> > of a human is 100W)
>
> + temperature gradient outside/inside and energy flow due to that
> depending on the insulation
> of your insulation material.
>
> > and the amount of energy taken by the water->steam
> > transition (2260 J/g water evaporation heat) - you can calculate the
> > grams water you need to evaporate per time unit (to fit the energy
> > bill) and flow rate (to keep the air dry enough to be able to take on
> > this mass of water per time-unit).
> >
> > -h
> >
> >> Perhaps with some modifications? I think not but haven't tried.
> >> Sleepbreeze.com.uk does seem to work, but that's one body, not one
> room.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Lucas
> >>
> >> El 04/09/2013 08:32, "ken winston caine" <ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com>
> >> escribió:
> >>
> >>> David is right. You definitely need to have an exhaust vent. Swamp
> cooling
> >>> cools by moisture evaporating in dry air -- not by creating
> increasingly
> >>> swampy air. You must draw fresh dry air in, and let the moist air out.
> >>>
> >>> Since the moist, cooler air falls to the floor, it is best not to
> depend
> >>> upon a roof exhaust vent.  A mid-height window, or open door will do
> the
> >>> trick.
> >>>
> >>> RE: your test. You didn't tell us WHERE, what region, you were
> conducting
> >>> the test in. Were you in a region with 30% or less relative humidity?
> If so,
> >>> your test would be a good indicator of the effectiveness of the
> evaporative
> >>> cooling, once you have the intake and exhaust set up correctly. If you
> were
> >>> in a higher humidity zone, there is no point in running the test. It
> simply
> >>> won't give you any indication of how the evaporative cooling will work
> in
> >>> low-humidity, desert conditions.
> >>>
> >>> Hope that helps.
> >>>
> >>> ken winston caine
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 11:41 PM, David Kelso <david+goo...@kelso.id.au
> >
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> A swamp cooler needs to be constantly moving fresh air in, humid air
> >>>> out in order to keep cool. So you should aim to have a directional
> >>>> airflow path. It can go up to the roof, or out to the door. You need
> >>>> to make sure the outlets are big enough that the fan isn't fighting
> >>>> any extra pressure inside the yurt. An outlet fan would help with that
> >>>> but isn't strictly necessary
> >>>>
> >>>> The major factor in swamp cooler effectiveness is fan speed. Which fan
> >>>> were you using?
> >>>>
> >>>> For anecdotal evidence, last year I was in a 6ft stretch and was
> >>>> getting at least 30 degree F cooling throughout the whole yurt.
> >>>>
> >>>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 10:19 PM, Jason Adams
> >>>> <jasonadamspriv...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>> > So I setup an H12, with two swamp coolers, with insulated ducts into
> >>>> > opposite ends of my Yurt.  Just cut a hole for the ducts.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Its going to be hard to describe, but I still felt like the swamp
> >>>> > coolers or
> >>>> > the yurt wasn't really cooling much.  I felt like being out in the
> sun,
> >>>> > but
> >>>> > in the breeze was way more cooling that in a h12 with two swamp
> coolers
> >>>> > running.  The airflow really close to the duct holes was nice, but
> once
> >>>> > you
> >>>> > got more than a foot away from duct, you didn't really feel it.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > It also felt hot inside, maybe thats just the moisture or sticky
> icky
> >>>> > feeling you get from releasing that much moisture in the air.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > It's definitely nice not having the intense light on you, the yurt
> >>>> > certainly
> >>>> > kept alot of that sun off the ground , probably getting a cooling
> >>>> > ground
> >>>> > effect, but I feel like I was missing some comfort.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I feel like my options are to basically vent the yurt, or do a fan
> >>>> > exiting
> >>>> > air at the top of the yurt. Which would ideally get more airflow in
> the
> >>>> > yurt
> >>>> > -- however I feel like that would lose some of the effect of the
> swamp
> >>>> > cooling (after all I'm sealing the bottom to keep the cool air in
> >>>> > right?).
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Maybe what I really needed was some type of airflow in the yurt,
> either
> >>>> > up
> >>>> > the power of the swamp cooling fans -- or hang a big fan from the
> top
> >>>> > of the
> >>>> > yurt.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Just trying to figure out how to make this thing more comfortable,
> >>>> > because I
> >>>> > honestly felt cooler under a shade structure, with some pillows and
> the
> >>>> > breeze coming through.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Thoughts?
> >>>> >
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