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3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are
usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy
that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers,
which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave
breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly
gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed
under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when
they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized
conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also
frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited
by
the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if
they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as
soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed,
or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and
vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could
throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
_________ _________
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
funnel.
The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every
basic
chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a
semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved
side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone
into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure
that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they
could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into
about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors,
and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can
be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process
which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place
them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully
add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown
fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating
that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive
and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches
the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is
difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by
the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
________ _________
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
glycerine blue litmus paper
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium
bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that
some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not
spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice
bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about
20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add
the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the
mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is
a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the
solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the
water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored
in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce
it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid
range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is
impact-sensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise gun store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual.
Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order
explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but
it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store
black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas.
It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocottmNX and`¦«¦-Ön+üJ-üó+ü
ünrˇn+üzÖü"N--N__ncü¦r-n+5¨
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very
effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/
impact sensitive
rather unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly
slow
charcoal 15% burning;
unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
________________________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ?
unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay
before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very
hot
or
magnesium 40%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make
sesquisulfide 25% strike-anywhere
matches
________________________________________________________________________________
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
+ small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash
powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
________________________________________________________________________________
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% unstable!
impact sensitive
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate
of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of
the mixture.
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or
sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be
perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the
high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure
is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all
in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of
nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This
is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or
nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could
result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more
ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it
is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and
5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more
stable
and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a
plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it
should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since
ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate
could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to
a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-
hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction
site,
since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and
insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from
a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the
ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large
shockwave to set it off.
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best
known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It
is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known.
In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed
to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product.
A
terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step
method.
The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
(fuming)
sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong
(fuming)
nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is
filtered.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction,
however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A
misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane
act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium
nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and
increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch.
Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly
simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form,
such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would
probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about
thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool
for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the
ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring
the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.
When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and
heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of
it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of
the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than
that
required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid,
since
it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household
ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container
and
dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia
in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining
should
be ammonium picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric
acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and
glass
pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass
tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the
ammonia-generating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it
is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is
simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two
beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the
beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for
safety.
If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put
lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can
be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials
presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
3.51 THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen
from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced
by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is
ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric
acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33.
The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture
can be ignited.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and
can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such
as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the
liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the
cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth
to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the
bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A
mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at
best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the
very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When
the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto
the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%,
if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated cooking pan with raised
sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested,
until
a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is
excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap
on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion.
To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would
be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other
gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used,
and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand
to
the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the
gas
would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a
large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas
container
often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of
ignition
are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing
the
canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would
probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of
the
gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous
oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
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