Well, if you look at the Nodal Ninja heads, the small one has a scale
up to 120mm and the big one a scale up to 160mm. Myself, I made my
pano head with an allowance for up to 130mm. Should be enough for most
cases, but as Markku Kolkka said, it might be more important with the
ability to move forward to 0mm or less when it comes to longer focal
lengths.

If you look at http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database you
see that the Sigma 70-300 at 200mm has an entrance pupil at -30mm. If
you use this on a Canon EOS 5D MKII you only have 8.5mm from the
tripod mount to the entrance pupil...

Myself, I built my pano head to be completely upgradable. I made it
with aluminium profiles (http://www.alucon.se/Shop/Image/Article/
001-001.jpg) and if needed I just make a longer arm.

On Feb 9, 6:03 pm, "John McAllister" <sp...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Evening,
>
> I am building another pano head (the fourth) which will have a rail allowing 
> the camera mount to be moved back sufficiently to eliminate parallax.
>
> I am planning to use it to produce high resolution images for very large, 
> detailed prints.
>
> Presently, I use a wide angle lens (10mm, crop 1.6=16mm 35efl) which needs 
> 100mm between the camera mount and the point of null parallax, or nodal point 
> or focal point or whatever you choose to call what I know you understand.
>
> I am aiming to move out to focal lengths of perhaps 100mm, or some more.
>
> Does anybody have any particular experience with longer focal lengths, 
> particularly with respect to zoom telephoto lenses (haven't bought one yet, 
> so can't experiment)?
>
> I want to determine a sensible maximum allowance for parallax elimination 
> with longer and zoom lenses.
>
> Could anybody enlighten me? (Buddhists tried)
>
> Ever so humbly grateful in advance of what I know will be a deluge of 
> erudition and flawless advice.
>
> Brainache (not Brainiac, obscure reference there folks).
>
> PS. See some lucky pictures of my garden foxes (short slideshow) 
> athttp://www.w3a2z.net/Rasha/

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