Am Samstag, 23. August 2014 15:43:43 UTC+2 schrieb Cartola: > > I totally agree with Kay. > > When I have first tested philopod some years ago I didn't like it and > abandoned it. A few time ago I have rediscovered it and maybe finally used > it correctly. I am using it all time now (many examples in my weekly > publishings <http://cartola.org/360/>). It's lighter, shooting is faster, > call less attention, mainly in "forbidden places" like museums and others > where they tend to complain about tripods, and stitching is also much > faster, with nadir already ok in the first step. > > This video shows a good technique to take advantage of the philopod > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOEM4cKKGc>. > The video shows the 'classic' philopod technique. Notice how, in the first example, the camera is tilted slightly up/down. If the philopod were positioned precisely (weight over ground target), tilting the camera down means moving the NPP further forward than it should be, and tilting it up moves it further back. Using my loop-and-brace technique avoids the problem; the brace will keep the loop precisely in-plane with the NPP at all times. Florian's second example shows him doing zenith and nadir shots by 'rule of thumb'. This works all right, but with the loop and brace technique, you don't do zenith and nadir shots vertically up or down, but, still guided by the philopd, tilted very far up and very far down. Again the brace takes care of keeping the loop in-plane with the NPP, only the sky shot is a bit awkward since the camera body gets in the way of the loop if the brace isn't very big, but the zenith is usually less problematic than the nadir, since most of the content there is quite far away and parallax isn't a problem. For the nadir shot, I position the camera with the philopd and then gently swing it out of the way with one hand when I take the shot - that way I don't have the string and weight in the picture.
I am particularly pleased with the good performance around the nadir. I routinely use my GPS unit, oriented to magnetic north, as my ground target. When I stitch the panorama, all I need to do to orient it is to center on the nadir, drag the GPS unit's image to the center, and rotate until the GPS unit shows upright. With this simple operation I get a perfectly level horizon and I don't have to bother myself with orienting the panorama some other way - I can upload straight to 360cities. > > Zeiljko Soletic <http://www.360cities.net/profile/gospar2> inspired me to > retry the technique. Watching his panoramas (almost all with philopod) I > gave it another try. For example, in a trip to France he shot more than 500 > panoramas with philopod (he mentioned that at facebook). > Almost all my recent ones are done with a philopod as well: https://www.360cities.net/profile/kfj > > Tripod or pole now only for specific situations, like when long > expositions are necessary or a higher point of view (pole). I have a drone > for even higher shooting :) > Cool! I thought about geting into drones myself. I suppose it's fun programming the thing to do it's little dance around the NPP ;) I found that the philopod isn't precise enough to do man-made stuff, since in straight lines, you can see even single-pixel errors. But for landscapes, it's all I need. I make sure that the horizon +/- 30° stitches correctly and leave the covering up of the ground and sky errors to the blender - that's why you usually see the image of my GPS unit 'torn in half' when you look at the nadir of my images. Kay -- A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to hugin-ptx+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/7878b779-e499-41b7-8239-3619f267ab4c%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
