You can get to the show-hide options with tools, options.  There are seven
or eight things to tab over, then there is
'spaces' and 'paragraph markers'.  I had a hard time turning this off once
I got it on.  there is an 'all' choice under tools/options that must be
unchecked in order for the extra things to go away.
 
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Visit the jfw ml web page: http://jfw.cjb.net

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