>It sure would be easier if I could take the partially completed wing off >with one side glassed. >Ron Freiberger +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ron, I removed my outer wing panels after glassing the tops. I placed them on a work table, and then built my fuel tanks complete except for the closing which was the bottom side of the wing. There was little if any flex. I did mount them back to the stub wings before glassing the bottom but I see no reason you couldn't do the same with your "custom jig" if it were built to close tolerance. The two critical factors here would be the fit of the wing attach fittings and building the wing true, ZERO WASHOUT in your case. A well built jig should hold the attach fittings as you also have the inboard rib, foam, and glass. My fittings fit perfectly when I reattached my wings. As for holding the wing true, mark your cord lines on the inboard and outboard ribs and attach a piece of "quarter round" trim or some type of platform on which to place a level. SmartLevel would be best but a good bubble level should be just as accurate. Make sure you jig the wing with both cord lines level and it should work out just fine. I'd even go out on a limb and say that if you used a piece of 1/4" ply for the inboard rib and used gussets, that you could do the entire wing on a jig after you glue the ribs in place with the spars attached to the stub wing fittings. I recall you wanted some a__h___ to give you an opinion so I felt obligated to reply. :-) Have a good one. Larry Flesner
